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hagimihale

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  1. For the last few months, I've been gaming a 12* 917D2 with a Graphite Design XC 7X @ 43.5* as a 2-wood. I put a +6 head weight in it to offset the shorter length, I'm guessing it is around D4 (my driver is D7 for comparison). It won't go farther than 250 (carry) but I am finding the fairway consistently, and the limited distance is keeping me short of some of the trouble at my local courses. My actual driver only comes out on straight par-5s where I don't get penalized for rolling out past 300, or where I'm hitting into a strong headwind.
  2. A. Until 2021, was playing all Mizuno S18. Still have S18 sand wedge, but added Vegas (VW-04 and VW-10) and a Yururi Gekku to the bag this year B. Until 2021, irons matched as I had played Mizuno irons for years. Now gaming Grindworks PR-202 irons. C. PW 45*, then 48*, 52*, 54*, 58*. Gaming 5 wedges to bring my distance gaps down to 10yds between clubs. D. 8* (48* GW), 10* (52* GW and 58* LW), 12* (54* SW) E. Until 2021 I gamed tour issues S400 in all my wedges. The Vegas came with KBS (either Tour 120 FLT or Tour 105) and the Yururi has a Nippon 125 wedge shaft. Not sure what direction I'll go, but I like the feel of the Tour 120 FLT and the Nippon, if I change from S400. The Tour 105 seems too light.
  3. I'm in the "get to a good approach distance" crowd. For me thats 90-120yds (between PW and SW). Many of the courses here in FL are set up for seniors (unless you play the tips): par-4s @320-360 yards. For a few years now I'd use my 18* hybrid or 4-iron, to set up a good look with a wedge. Note that since Covid I've been experimenting with a "2 wood": a 12* driver with a 70X shaft that won't go farther than 260. Lately I've been using this on medium length par-4s to get to my desired approach distance, with good results. I found that while hitting driver is fun, it often got me into trouble: an approach shot that was too close (40-60yds) that required a partial wedge, or crushing driver only to watch it roll through the fairway and into trouble.
  4. @JohnM88, I was also struck by the similarity between the PR-202 and MP18 SC. I game the PR-202 and love them. Great feel, and more forgiving than I expected given the small(ish) head size. Everything I've read about the MP18 SC has noted the lack of forgiveness, despite the cavity back profile.
  5. I typically shoot in the mid-80s. Have been playing ProVs for the last 10 years I think. Initially switched because I preferred the feel on my iron shots, but stayed due to the consistency in holding greens on approach shots. I get "hop and stop" on anything from 6-iron down to wedges. For those of you who balk at paying the premium prices - so do I. I surf the 'bay for "gently used" ProVs and typically pay between $0.75 to $1 per ball, buying in bulk of 2-3 dozen at a time. Some of them are basically brand new, some have a bit of discoloration, and some have a few scratches. I used the "scratched" balls for par-3 tee shots over water.
  6. For years I gamed Cleveland wedges and Mizuno irons. Vokeys replaced the Clevelands about 10 years ago. Then I came across a steal on a Mizuno S18 (54* high bounce SW). I preferred the feel of the S18 and was more consistent with it. Same result when I added a 50* and 58* S18, relegating the Vokeys to the backup bag. The 50* and 58* S18 are now up at Dad's house in that spare bag (don't like to travel with my clubs), replaced by Vega wedges. But nothing has kicked that original 54* S18 out of my regular bag. The SM6 Vokeys that were replaced by the S18s are now up in NJ in the bag at my buddy's house...
  7. I game 2 drivers and no 3W: 10.5* (TS3), and a 12* (917D2) which I consider a 2W. I never hit 3W off the deck, and am more consistent with the bigger face of the 2W off the tee. The 12* has a shorter and heavier (Graphite Design XC 7X) shaft. I get higher launch, less roll and can turn this driver over if I want to. My default shot shape with my 10.5* is a baby cut, and it sets up well to hit low rolling shots into the wind. I've been using this type of setup for a few years. Lets me take advantage of doglegs in either direction, or effectively play with or into the wind. I get to hit "driver" more often, have more wedges in my hands on approach shots, and my avg score has dropped a few strokes. Fun stuff...
  8. Nice writeup. Interesting comparsion of 33 vs 20. Newer is not necessarily better. I've played several rounds with different golfers who stick by the 33s. They tended to be pretty consistent iron players, and didn't strike me as guys on a limited budget. So the 33s must work for them. @anser85029, I have a backup set of 32s that I'll never get rid of. Every time I take them out for a spin I walk off 18 thinking I should game them more often...
  9. I'm in the "no insert" crowd when it comes to Scottys. Currently game a 2014 Select Fastback. Also have a 2011 Studio Select Fastback 1. The feeling off the face of these is similar to a properly forged iron. Pure, like a properly-rung church bell. Knowing when I've mishit the putt (miss center-face = different feel) is invaluable. You could make the right read, and give it proper speed, but miss the center of the face and thus miss the putt. I want to know when that happens so I don't make the wrong adjustment. The Scottys I've hit with inserts (example: 2018 Select Fastback) felt different. The ball jumped off the face, but the feel was almost dead in comparison to my gamer(s). But to each their own I guess...
  10. Driver (10.5*), 2W (12*), then 18* hybrid at the top. I don't hit fairway woods off the turf, and get better distance and more consistent contact with the 12* driver I'm using as a 2W. 5 wedges: 45* PW, 50* GW (turned down to 48*), 52*, 54*, 58*. Identified gaps in my distance, and once I dialed in full and 3/4 shots, this setup gave me multiple options from 110 in. No 5i - I was rarely at that distance (190) and I can choke down on a 4i if needed.
  11. I think this depends on the manufacturer in general. I've a 2H in the bag for years, probably 3 different brand/models. The first 2 said "2H" on the club and were 19*. But with lofts getting stronger, now that 19* might be a 3H. My current 818H2 19* does not have a "2H", "3H" etc on it. But for OP's question, we really only need to know what the loft is of their 3W and 2H.
  12. For most golfers, a 3W will be longer (in both carry distance and total distance) than a 2H. I know a number of golfers who use this mix (driver, 3W, 2H) in their bag, especially if they don't game a 2nd fairway wood (i.e. 5W) 3W will have lower loft (typically 15*) than the 2H (typically around 19*) and will also have a longer shaft. Lower loft + longer shaft = more distance. But its not always that simple. Some golfers will do much better with the shorter shaft of the hybrid, leading to more consistent center-face contact and thus more consistent results. If you struggle with the 3W, you might find switching to a 16.5* 4W will give you better results. Some people game a 18* 5W instead but then the distance gap can be too close between that and the 2H. Do you hit either the 3W or 2H consistently? If one of them is a good go-to club, then build your gaps around that. You should know your typical (carry) distance for your driver, 3W, 2H and 4i. If the distance between 2 of those clubs is <20yds, that might be a good reason to change out one of them. Hope this helps, and good luck!
  13. The 2 VW-04 wedges I bought are satin. They had not been hit before I received them. I can now confidently say my strike with these wedges is just slightly heel-side...
  14. Check out the Epon AF-705 (older model) and AF-706 (current model).
  15. My current gamers (Grindworks PR-202) are Endo forged. But here's one that you might not realize: Mizuno JPX 825 Pro were forged in Endo's facilities. The Chuo factory (Mizuno in-house forging partnership) did not (yet) have the ability to make a forged iron with an undercut cavity, so they had the heads made by Endo. To this day these are one of my favorite Mizuno irons - I keep them at my father's house so I don't have to travel with my sticks.
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