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Everything posted by hagimihale

  1. This is why I'm still gaming 818H2. Haven't hit anything that suits my eye (and gives me enough of an improvement) to justify making a change...
  2. @HitBombs, I am making an educated guess that the Modus 120X is 2-3-5. I now have quite a few rounds in with the shaft - put them in the bag in April and play every weekend. I'm still comfortable with this estimation. I would agree with your statement of the UB being 2.5-2.5-4.5, if GD is describing it as medium+, medium+, stiff+. It looks like a DI that was slightly stiffened throughout the shaft. So maybe a bit less hinge in the middle, and a slightly more stable feel. I have NOT hit the UB, so this is just another guess. Its probably worth checking out. I didn't get along with the DI (hookasaurus city). I've had great results with the XC and GP, and just added a BB that has been a fun experiment. Of all the GD shafts I've tried, those are the closest IMHO to the Modus 120 profile.
  3. I've had this setup for almost a year now: playing a 12* 917D2, paired with a Graphite Design XC 7X, as a "2 wood". Its my usual club off the tee. My gamer driver is a 10.5* TS3 with a Diamana 'ahina 60X (though I'm currently experimenting with a Graphite Design BB 7S). I never hit 3W off the deck, and my hybrid was almost as long off the tee. So I took 3W out, and put the 12* in play. Haven't missed the 3W at all. On many courses around here, I get in trouble if my tee shot rolls out past 270 (water, bunker, dogleg, etc). The 2W has been an effective solution to that problem. The driver only comes out when playing into the wind, or on wide-open par 5s. My results: I'm hitting "driver" more often (always fun), have gotten more practice hitting wedges into greens, and my avg score went down about 2 strokes. Fun stuff!
  4. This has been my experience. Similarly, have found with wood shafts that I do better with heavier (70+g) shaft than my SS (~104) would suggest I should use. That being said, I completely agree with what @Valtiel says above. There are a number of variables (tempo, release, etc) that come into play when looking for the right shaft profile. Case in point, I'm gaming a Graphite Design XC 7X. Love it. My buddy has a 917D2 with an Aldila NV 65R. Love that too.
  5. Those are stunning. I want to hit that 2-iron. LOL
  6. @Captain Hook11, that sounds like the Aldila NV (2nd gen) or NVS. Can you take a look and see which one it is?
  7. I'm sure other (more knowledgeable) WRXers will chime in. As I was typing this, @Howard_Jones (who has probably forgotten more about shafts than I'll ever learn) covered some of what I was about to jot down. Below are a few thoughts. It would also help to know what shaft you are gaming now. 1. There is no difference between a LH shaft and a RH shaft in theory. Most high end shafts (Fujikura, Mitsubishi, Graphite Design, Project X etc) are "radially consistent", meaning they are as close to a perfectly round tube as you can get. As a result, there would be no need to "pure" them, and thus it wouldn't matter what "direction" the clubface was pointing at when the head was connected to the shaft. 2. Keep in mind that the concepts of "regular", "stiff", extra stiff" are not consistent across different brands. They are only good for comparison within the same shaft family. But yes, if your shaft feels too whippy, one solution would be to try a stiff version of the same shaft. 3. Another solution is to move up in weight at the same stiffness. So if you were playing a 60-series in regular, try a 70 series in regular. 4. It is possible that the shaft that came with your driver is not a good fit with your swing profile, and moving from regular to stiff would not solve your problem. You might be better with a different shaft (for example, lets say you had a Ventus Blue in regular. Instead of moving to a stiff, you might be better off with a Ventus black in regular) Which gets me to my final point. Get fitted. You could get lucky buying cheap(ish) shafts on BST or eBay and stumble across something that works. It will be much more efficient to pay a fitter (around here, its $100-$150 for a driver fitting session) to put different shafts in your hands, explain why this shaft will or will not work, and let you see the results. Then when you know what shaft does work, you can do research online for similar shafts and hopefully find an older, cheaper version if you still want to save $. Hope this helps, and good luck!
  8. I love "dumpster diving" on the 'bay for cheap shafts I've never hit before, though nothing seems to knock my Diamana 'ahina out of the bag permanently. Others have hit on a few of the budget shafts I've come across, that you can probably find under $100: Aldila Tour Green Aldila Xtorsion Aldila Rogue 130 (I hit the silver) HZRDUS Smoke Diamana 2nd gen ('ahina, kai'li) and 3rd gen (W-series, B-series)
  9. This is gonna take a while. This is just in my house (have bags at my buddy's in NJ and my mom's in Boston as well) Diamana: 'ahina 6X, DF 6X Aldila: Tour Green 65 TS, Xtorsion Green 60TX, Tour Blue 75S Project X: HZRDUS Smoke Black 60 6.0 Graphite Design: XC 7X, GP 6X, TP 6X, VR 6X, MT 6S, QT 6S The XC, 'ahina and DF get the most play. Probably should list some of the other GD shafts...
  10. I bought them from @Kaexo in April. I adjusted the lie angles (I play 2* flat) and regripped them (MCC+4). They haven't left the bag since then, and I've declined offers to sell them. Its a different feel than Miura (my buddy games Miura wedges). Soft and dense is how I'd describe it. I compress the ball and can come in a bit steep, so the beveled leading edge is much appreciated. I'm getting very reliable flight and distance, and the 3/4 knockdown shot comes off pretty well. I get that some will never look at these b/c of the Patrick Reed connection. Personally I don't give a crap - I don't play any clubs based on what pros have them in the bag. They either work, or they don't. And these do. If you're looking for a forged players CB iron, and the Miuras/Epons of the world are on the list, I think you should try these as well. Just my $.02
  11. I agree with @Valtiel comments that it could be weight, bend profile, length, or something else entirely. He has forgotten more about this subject than most of us can remember... I'm currently gaming Modus 120X and previously used X100. I haven't found a draw bias, if anything my default shot shape has gone from baby draw to controlled fade. This has helped my distance control and subsequently my accuracy on approach shots.
  12. Still gaming a 2014 Special Select Fastback. The Flowback was the only putter I've tried in the last few years that made me consider other options. Very similar feel, and like @UnderParfect noted, the distance control was spot on.
  13. Tend to use my SW (54* Mizuno S18, 12* bounce) on most shots around the green. Lay it open a bit more on tighter lies. I do use PW a lot on shots where I want to run the ball up to the hole.
  14. Can't comment on Cobalt. My prior rangefinder was a Bushnell V3,. Currently using Nikon 50i Sometimes the 50i is inconsistent hitting the flag (vs the trees behind the green), but overall I'm very happy with it.
  15. I gamed Mizuno S18 wedges for a few years. Still have the 54* SW in the bag, as nothing can seem to knock it out. Last year I started looking for a GW with some leading edge relief or perhaps a v-sole similar to Srixon's. Most of the fairways here in west FL are lush and soft, and the sharp leading edge of my 50* S18 wasn't helping. Wound up with Vegas (VW-08 and VW-10), that have a similar "blunted" leading edge like you see in some Miura irons. Very happy with the results. Also added a Yururi 58* with the same leading edge, that gets some time in the bag depending on the course. So my current makeup is Mizuno, Vega and Yururi. I get people who need matching wedges, but for me its whatever works...
  16. I am doing this: replaced my 3W with a 12* 917D2. Using a 43" Graphite Design XC in 7X. I was only hitting 3W off the tee, and the much deeper face of the 12* gives me significantly more confidence. I don't get the rollout that I do with my "1W", so it keeps me short of trouble on many holes around here. Have had this in place since before covid started. I'm hitting more driver(s) per round (always fun), having more wedges into greens and my typical score has dropped 1-2 strokes.
  17. I gamed MP-T4 for years. Great wedges, very versatile. I know what you mean about the different feel with Boron. Current SW is an S18 (the Boron doesn't bother me out of the sand), but for my other wedges I moved on from Mizuno b/c I didn't like the feel.
  18. TS3 10.5*, Diamana 'ahina 6x. Swingweight is D7. Its a sledgehammer, but when I'm fully warmed up, I know I can rip through the ball with this thing and it will retain the stable feel I want. I don't use it all the time - on many holes on the courses around here, I would roll through the fairway and into trouble. But its a lot of fun when I get to tee one up with this. I have an "alternate" driver (I consider it a 2W): a 12* 917D2 that plays at D6 and won't roll out past 270. That gets much more play in most rounds...
  19. I concur with @Ty-Webb on this. Currently gaming Modus 120X, previously gamed X100. The Modus feel softer without being much softer, if that makes sense. I demoed the DG 120X (when I still had X100 in the bag). They were ok, felt stable, but they didnt stand out enough to make me switch at that time. I've seen others make the comment (about Modus 120) that you either love them or hate them, and I agree. As a somewhat handsy player, the profile works for me. But I suspect most X100 fans would choose the DG120X
  20. I picked up some Vega wedges a few months ago when 2ndswing had a crazy deal. Now gaming a VW-10 (52*) and VW-08 (50*, turned down to 48*). I've hit my buddy's Miura wedges, and the feel is similar to me: soft yet dense. Also have a Yururi Gekku in 58* that holds up to the Miura, my prior (Mizuno) wedges or anything the "big box" brands have put out in recent years.
  21. I also agree with @RainShadow on this. I tend to game 6X shafts, but can easily switch back to a HZRDUS Smoke Black 6.0 with no issues.
  22. Graphite Design has a Stiff Regular. Its between R and S.
  23. I agree with @Stuart_G on this. Currently gaming Modus 120X. I find them much closer to S300/S400, than the X100 in my prior irons.
  24. Nice work, I think this is a more informative and applicable chart than the official one. I have tried XC, VR, GP, TP, DI, MT and QT. Currently gaming both XC and VR (see my sig). I find the GP easier to elevate and fade than the XC. I get higher launch (and I think lower spin) with GP than with TP, to give some indication of where I'd put GP in your chart.
  25. @phizzy30, this is the main reason I swapped out the 'ahina 6X for a Graphite Design VR in 6X. I love the 'ahina, its the best shaft I've ever hit. But I have to be at least 90% for it to work correctly. Hmm, maybe I should try one in 6S...
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