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twholbrook

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  1. Tempting. I might be interested in these if my order of 425s stretches out for a few more months. Would you ship to Canada? Just the heads.
  2. Thanks! That's a very handy starting point. Maybe I'll go for a fitting....I have 3 hybrids and don't play them all all the time, but I'd hate to be sinking hundreds into shafts without knowing.
  3. Hey all, I had a fitting done last year and by far the most significant revelation was my iron shafts were all wrong. I had KBS Tour 90s, don’t have the fastest SS (95mph with driver), but ended up fitting into Project X LZ 5.5 shafts. Distance and dispersion were greatly improved. I think this is due to an aggressive transition and fast tempo. as of now I have two G425 hybrids with R flex Alta shafts and I feel totally lost with them. I have a lot of trouble hitting them consistently and I’m wondering if changing shafts to something heavier may help. Does anyone have any recommendations?
  4. Of note: my hearing is damaged and I actually loved the sound when I played with a guy who had a set. Maybe not having the best hearing actually helps me!
  5. Also encouraging is the face welds are still in good shape. I've seen some (rare) reports sometimes those can show some wear. 250 rounds is a good sign! The more i500 photos I see the more tempted I am...I just know they're a pain to reshaft and I plan to reshaft them.
  6. @Mickesgolf, how does the finish hold up? The used set I'm looking at has some scuffs, which I'm fine with because they're golf clubs. I do have some refinishing experience but would be hesitant to remove/alter the hydropearl finish.
  7. If it’s any clue, I currently game a set of 718 AP3s and most of my strokes are lost with short game and driver. So I think I’m capable of gaming players irons…
  8. Nope, I was fit on an indoor trackman setup. Which could mask some chunky fat shots, possibly.
  9. Hi all, does anyone have any direct comparisons between G425 and i500s for their game? I was fitted last year into a set of 425s and while I was happy with them, I didn't even get to try i500s. I played with someone who had a set and they were gorgeous and I actually liked the sound. From most indications they are similar but maybe a bit less forgiving, and they both really launch balls. About my swing About 95mph driver SS, fast tempo with a quick transition, and steep AoA. fitted into Project X 5.5 LZ iron shafts (this one is non-negotiable!). I tend to hit thinner soled clubs better, and would greatly benefit from hitting balls higher as I have a lower than usual trajectory and don't remember stopping a 7I on a green in a long time. Would love to hear people's opinions comparing these sets. I have a G425 set on order for what seems like forever, and a great local used set of i500s came up that has me tempted.
  10. I ended up measuring this with a CMM at my office. The thread spec is M21 x 1mm, in case anyone is searching, now you know!
  11. It's just a font I found online. His handwriting is much more illegible, and so is mine!
  12. So, it was my dad's 70th birthday a week ago. He's the one responsible for getting me into golf, it's what we bond over and talk about the most, and he's a fastidious collector, he has at least 50 putters around their house. He has all kinds of putters but they seem to be almost all blades, with a mix of Anser styles and quite a few Wilson 8802 putters and their variants. That's another post for another day. He's always lamented he can't get a putter the way he wants it - medium toe hang, a line all the way across the tail and topline, fairly light weight and with an old style leather grip. This is among many other parameters, and he does like being able to "scoop" the ball like the Anser style putters. I work in a place where I have access to a 3-axis Haas CNC and lots of other specific tools, and I got to work on planning this earlier this year. I'm a mechanical engineer with some product design experience, but by no means an expert. Never designed a club before. Steps: Design in CAD system (Creo) Do CAM/toolpaths in Fusion Order extra parts and tool bits Machining face insert Machining topline Machining sole and rear logo pocket Machining weight pocket (each side) Engraving sole logo Milling face Hand sanding out some rough transitions and blending surfaces as best as possible (mechanical engineer, not a surfacing wizard...) Glass bead blasting to get entire putter "diffuse" so it doesn't create glare in the sun when looking down at it. Hand sanding/polishing sole with sandpaper grits all the way to 5000, attempting to get mirror finish. Buffing wheel with green compound on mirror finished sole Blowtorch to purple/blue (following oneaugusta's method) Quench in motor oil + liquid wrench oil Clean, mount weights, face insert, hosel adapter, shaft, and grip Just writing those steps out doesn't really communicate how long this took me. Our machine is powerful but not the most powerful so engraving the logos in it took FOREVER. I also had a hockey accident mid-project and had to operate one handed for a while. And cutting steel requires patience and because I'm using a fair amount of my office's tooling I err'd heavily on the safe side so as not to damage/wear anything too much. I actually bought enough material to make another one for myself but I think I'm going to leave this as a 1/1. DM me or comment here if you have any questions. I'm not a machinist by trade so I won't claim this was the most effective way to go about it. Specs: 33.5" long 320g head weight 3.5deg loft GripMaster leather grip "Uluru" colour, midsize D (flat front) Interchangeable SC-style weights, standard 20g each, also provided 10g and 5g. GolfWorks 3.0" carbon steel putter hosel adapter Stainless steel (303) insert and weights Carbon steel head, quenched in 60% 2-stroke motor oil, 40% liquid wrench oil Sightlines painted with Testors enamel paint Rear logo painted with Sally Hansen's Xtreme Wear nail polish Photo (rest attached): Videos: Roughing (mostly just coolant soaking my GoPro) Flycutting Final radius on face Blowtorch colour shift Removing after blowtorch and quench Special acknowledgements go to: Delilah Club Covers, who made the cover and it's perfect. Forum user oneaugusta, who got me inspired to do the torching and provided some feedback along the way. Instagram user @theputterdepot who I had some conversations with along the way. Expert in refinishing!
  13. Looks fantastic @oneaugusta! I've been fiddling with a Newport Select and having lots of trouble torching it with MAPP gas. I've done it successfully on an old Vokey wedge (carbon steel) but stainless is giving me all kinds of trouble. I don't think I'm able to get it hot enough, as it seems to be stalling around the brown level with some hints of purple and blue...but I stood there for 20 minutes and couldn't get it to turn. I think its partially due to working in a drafty shop but stainless definitely seems to need a lot more heat. Any suggestions for stainless to get it hotter? I preheated with a heat gun at 550 for 10 minutes beforehand too.
  14. Hi, I'm milling a custom putter for my fathers 70th birthday. I have some extra scotty weights around (the amazon variety...) and they fit my Newport 2. Does anyone know offhand what the thread spec is? I have access to a CNC with a thread mill so I can cut whatever thread I want. Just want to get it right.
  15. Hello all, I'm embarking on a project to build my father a putter for his 70th birthday. I'm a mechanical engineer by trade and have access to a pretty good workshop that includes a 3 axis CNC mill and lots of other toys. I make stuff daily so I'm not too intimidated by the project, but I have a question regarding face milling. My plan is to build the overall putter from carbon steel - specifically so I can blowtorch it and get it to a cool, unique finish for him. I plan to make seperate inserts from 303 SS, and I bought a block thats longer than I need so I can try a few things. My question is does anyone have any experience with milling specific patterns? I feel like I've seen some loose info around on whats been done, but want to avoid going too crazy before soliciting some advice. Things like cutter type, cut depth, and things like that are what I'm after.
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