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  1. There is no "standard". Tip weights are used to dial-in / match swing weights within a set.
  2. Graphite Design makes a .355 taper tip utility iron shaft that comes in 85/95 stiff. Accra makes a constant weight .355 taper tip (iCWT 2.0) in a 95 stiff. Mitsubishi offers its new MMT iron shafts as either a specialized utility shaft... but that might be a little heavy for you as 106g stiff; it's also offered in as a .355 taper tip (set); so you could play a 75, 95, or 95 stiff. I want to echo what Pepper said though. Fitting .370 hybrid shafts to fit .355 driving iron heads is easy. Any reputable builder can easily complete this retrofit. Virtually every pro on tour playing a u
  3. One other thing to consider that hasn't been mentioned; bending irons strong will increase the offset you see at address. This may or may not be an issue for you; but if your R/L miss tends to be left of target, adding offset wouldn't be advised.
  4. The 22yrd gap between your 8i / 9i based on these yardages could be an issue... 10-15yrd gaps between irons tends to be a good rule of thumb. Tweaking some of your lofts would likely be a good place to start.
  5. I too have played x7's, x100's, PX 6.5, & PX 7.0; IMO, the stepless design of the PX's make them "feel" quite a bit more stout relative to the X100s. Although 3g of incremental weight doesn't seem like a huge difference, the higher starting point of the x7's step pattern makes them play quite a bit stouter relative to the x100's. Attached is a CPM chart comparing the DGs to the PXs and some others that another WRX'er compiled/posted a while back. This isn't the end-all be all and CPM does NOT equal feel given how subjective the latter is based on how you load a shaft. But it's directionall
  6. I've personally played both of those iron shafts and subjectively prefer the the X100s vs. the X7s. If you're worried about making that step down, you could always bridge the delta by hard-stepping the X100s. In terms of budgetary options: - You could probably offset a portion of the $300-$400 reshaft expenditure, given that X7's aren't that common, you could probably offset a portion of the cost by reselling those pulls (+/- $150-$200) - Alternatively, if you don't love the look of the 750s, making a wholesale change may be your better option. New irons are obviously go
  7. I've hit & fitted both. Generically, I've found the IZ to be one of the highest launching of all the GD AD profiles. Feel is super subjective based on how you individually load a shaft... so hard to opine on that. IMO, all GD AD profiles share a similar "smooth" feel with just small variations from one profile to the next in terms of where that "feel" shows up in the shaft and in your individual swing. That said, based on your description of being a smooth/deliberate loader, I believe you're absolutely on the right track transitioning to a GD AD from the RDX which is a pretty stout shaft b
  8. Hypergolf hit the nail on the head. Staying within the GD family, the DI should be a great fairway shaft to pair with your TP once you dial-in the weight/tipping. The IZ would be another great option. Obviously, ones individual delivery characteristics play a big role, but the general rule of thumb transitioning down from driver to fairway wood shaft is (i) go up a weight class, (ii) add +/-0.5" tipping (0.0" - 1.0"), and (iii) go to a profile that has a slightly softer mid/tip section to promote higher launch characteristics given that the fairway wood needs to be dual purpose (off a tee &
  9. Stuart's suggestions are all really good. Based on your comment about your age & athleticism; I'd wager that you'd benefit from heavier & stiffer shafts. The suggestion at going shorter in your woods is also valid. Most OEMs stock length have been creeping longer for years and now are 45.5" - 46.0". Again, if I were you, 45.0" would be the longest I would play to start.
  10. SugarLand is absolutely correct about the dreaded hooks. That said, the G410LST is one of the best heads out there at neutralizing the big hook miss. You can go -1* loft in the flat settings (so not quite the same -1.5* that you're playing with, but close). Other things that can help compound the neutralization of that big left miss with the G410 LST include: (i) shift the moveable weight to the toe; this will also help juice your ball speeds on those slightly toe-side strikes (ii) experiment with a larger grip (will make it harder to over flip your hands); you may be abl
  11. Looks like you're getting quite a bit of juice out of that G410LST + EvenFlow Black 6.0stiff+ combo. For starters, with your ball speeds, I'd say you should be in an X-stiff (borderline TX for certain shaft OEMs). The G410LST & the SIM were two really good driver heads at mitigating the big left miss. Out of curiosity, did you ever play around with the "flat" settings on your Ping adapter? In terms of other shafts to try, assuming you like the "feel" of your current gamer, the Ventus Blue (Velocore), Accra TZ6 CB, and Graphite Design Tour AD-TP/IZ/XC would all be ones I would try. Good luc
  12. Your #'s are pretty solid; nothing on that launch monitor snapshot represents a red flag.
  13. I personally like the idea of a transitional club as a way to reclaim your distance gapping at the top of your bag. That said, if you're currently playing a 21* hybrid, the stock loft on your T200 5i is 24*. What's the current distance gap between these 2 clubs? If the goal is to tighten the gap you could try lofting up your hybrid from 21* to 22* OR bending your 5i from 24* to 23*.
  14. Which MMT stiff's do you have coming in your new irons? i.e., what weight? .355 taper tips vs. .370 parallels? The general thought is to go slightly heavier & softer in your wedges, but it's also somewhat dependent on how you use your various wedges. How many wedges do you play and which ones do you typically play full shots with vs. partial shots around the green?
  15. Agreed. Your ball speeds, distance gaps, and launch angles seem pretty well spaced. Your PW seems a little off across the board; but TBD if those #'s included some partial shots, etc. that are skewing the numbers.
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