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eth4and

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  1. Yes it is. Apologies for not being more specific. This is the driving iron version of the DI shaft. I've updated the posting accordingly.
  2. Just the Titleist 718 CB/MB irons & Tensei 1k shafts left! I have some adapters laying around for the driver shafts (just ask). Also, willing to split the CB/MB heads/shafts. All prices below INCLUDE fully insured USPS priority 2-3 day domestic shipping. 1.) Titleist 718 CB irons (3i - PW) >> $650 OBO - Willing to split heads/shafts and/or split the set to combo with MBs below >> $480 heads ONLY (3i - PW) OR $420 (4i - PW) - Project X LZ 6.5 shafts (4-PW) >> $165 shafts ONLY - 3i is built as a Driving Iron w/ Fuji Pro Tour Spec 95x shaft (Brooks Koepka's current driving iron shaft) >> $100 3i ONLY ($40 shaft ONLY) - Standard lofts & 2* flat - +0.5" playing length vs. Titleist standard - D5 swing weight throughout (D4 on 3i) - MCC black/white midsize grips (full specs below) 2.) Titleist 718 MB irons (7i, 8i, 9i) >> $225 OBO - Willing to split heads/shafts >> $150 heads ONLY - Matching specs of CBs above (were used in a combo set) - D5 swing weights throughout - Project X LZ 6.5 shafts >> $75 shafts ONLY - Standard lofts & 2* flat - +0.5" length vs. Titleist standard - MCC midsize grips (full specs below) 3.) Srixon ZU85 20* utility iron >> $SOLD OBO - D4-5 swing weight - Tour AD Utility/Driving Iron 95x shaft - Standard loft & 2* flat - 40.00" playing length - MCC +4 standard sized grip 4.) TI Dynamic Gold Wedge Shafts (4x) w/ Arccos grips >> $SOLD OBO - PW >> x100 @ 34.875" (plays 36.25") - GW >> x100 @ 34.625" (plays 36.00") - SW >> s400 @ 34.375" (plays 35.75") - LW >> s400 @ 34.125" (plays 35.50") - MCC +4 grips (+4 wraps under to play ~midsize) Next up, a variety of high-end driver shafts. Let me know if you want grips and/or tips pulled. More pictures available upon request but didn't want to overdo it in this classified posting. All shafts were professionally built. 5.) Mitsubishi Diamana ZF 60tx >> $SOLD OBO - Justin Thomas' current gamer shaft - Ping G410/425 Adapter - 45.25" playing length - Tipped 1.0" - Golf Pride BCT cord standard sized grip 6.) Mitsubishi Tensei 1k 50tx >> $250 OBO - No Adapter; professionally pulled & cleaned/prepped - Playing length variable based on OEM (e.g., 45.50" Titleist/TaylorMade; 45.75" Callaway - Tipped 0.5" - Golf Pride MCC +4 midsized grip 7.) Mitsubishi Tensei 1k 60tx >> $250 OBO - No Adapter; professionally pulled & cleaned/prepped Playing length variable based on OEM (e.g., 45.50" Titleist/TaylorMade, 45.75" Callaway, etc.) - Tipped 0.5" - Golf Pride MCC +4 midsized grip 8.) Fujikura Pro 2.0 TS 6x >> $SOLD OBO - TXG's Matt Blois' current spec +0.5" playing length - Titleist Adapter - 45.50" playing length - Tipped 1.25" - Golf Pride MCC +4 midsize grip 9.) Fujikura Atmos Black Tour Spec 6x >> $SOLD OBO - No Adapter; professionally pulled & cleaned/prepped - Playing length variable based on driver brand (e.g., 45.50" Titleist/TaylorMade, 45.75" Callaway, etc.) - Tipped 0.5" - Golf Pride MCC +4 midsized grip 10.) Fujikura Atmos Blue Tour Spec 6x >> $SOLD OBO - No Adapter; professionally pulled & cleaned/prepped - Playing length variable based on driver brand (e.g., 45.50" Titleist/TaylorMade, 45.75" Callaway, etc.) - Tipped 0.5" - Golf Pride MCC +4 midsized grip #1: #2 #3 #5 - #10 Driver Shafts >> More pictures available upon request pin 1/6 pin 1/21
  3. Merry Christmas WRX! Our fitting studio just upgraded its final GC2 to a Quad meaning its time to pass along this GC2 to a new loving home! This unit was purchased it directly from Foresight in September 2018 and remains in great working order. The GC2 is being sold with the original box, extra flash module, USB cable, power cable, etc. It is NOT being sold with any software as we transferred the FSX license and after hours TGC 2019 license over to the Quad. The unit's serial # is A13007 >> the 'A' signifies that this unit is bluetooth enabled AND compatible with both PC & Apple devices. Our shop always utilized bluetooth to connect the device to the PC. Pictures below, DM me for additional detail / pictures. Price is firm at $4,200 + buyer paid shipping. Payment method will be Paypal goods & services for both parties protection. We'll cover the corresponding PayPal fees. Buyer pays shipping (will not ship with out insurance, again for both parities protection). Local pickup available (MN). pin 12/2
  4. Seeking advice: best technique / tools for removing black from inside of Club Conex Uni-Fit adapters? Step 3a of the installation instructions state: "Abrade inside of Uni-fit shaft adapter (until black is removed from inside). I've used wire brush drill bits in the past... this technique / tool works... but I've found that I burn through the utility of the wire brush bit by the end of the 2nd uni-fit adapter. I've also tried reaming with a .335 bit... however, have found that the interior of these adapter is typically .338 +/- .001. I tried to just skip this step but found that doing so significantly reduced the strength of the epoxy cure... a no-go especially at higher swing speeds. Any advice much appreciated!
  5. The smoke green 6.5 is a totally different animal relative to the smoke green small batch 6.5tx... if you like the green 6.5 I'd encourage you to find a fitter that has the tx for you to try. I'll also second the OG Graffaloy Blue X being an absolute board. Plus you can likely find it on ebay for <$100. I have one client with a very aggressive transition that still uses this shaft to great effect. Ventus Black is really good. There's a reason so many tour Pro's have gone to the Ventus profiles. Most fitting studios that fit Fuji could get their hands on the 6tx version of this shaft (Phil's current gamer). I'm also a big fan of Accra's lineup when it comes to big hitters. The new RPG black/gold M5+ is very stout. The original RPG silver/blue m5+ was also really good. I like the TZ 5&6 as well. All have different profiles though. As it often said on these forums, the specific dynamics of your swing will make you a good fit or a poor fit for any of the shafts refenced on this thread. Without having you in one of our bays we're all just arm chair quarterbacking for you.
  6. Curious if anyone has any insight into whether or not the new GC3 will be locked to 3rd party software (TGC2019, etc.) like how the Quad was until recently? I've found that FSX reigns supreme in fitting applications BUT lags substantively behind in simulation gameplay applications.
  7. I have an upcoming build that includes: (i) forged MP-20 heads (ii) MMT 125tx (taper) shafts (iii) MMC+4 midsize grips (~65g) (iv) +0.5" playing length Problem is that I want the swing weight to come out around D5, but I'm grading out to D1-2 after dry fitting these components & the interior diameter of these shafts is ~0.08" vs. small lead/brass tip weights that have 0.15" min. requirements. Lead tape isn't an option as these heads have a custom flat black finish. Other than changing to a lighter grip, is powder my only option? Or are there X-small ID tip weights?
  8. Per my OP, I'm gaming the Black 5x (tipped 1.5") in an OG SIM 9* turned down to 7*. My gamer plays at 46". I also tested the 1k & TZ5 at the same 46" playing length. For me, all 3 shafts have the bomber ball in them. For me it came down to marginally tighter std. deviations both in terms of distance and dispersion. Although, with the offseason just around the corner for me here in midwest, I'm sure I'll end up testing both again (plus others) in the home sim before next season.
  9. I believe Fuji's recommended tipping instructions for their Ventus shafts is to play them straight into both drivers & 3wds; so I assume you'd be fine playing straight-in. To those ends, tipping really comes down to a personal preference. In addition to the Ventus black 5x (58g) that I'm currently gaming, I've also tried the following shafts in the same +/-60g category: - Mitsubishi Tensei 1k 50tx (61g) - Accra TZ5 55 m5 (60g) Both were awesome shafts with some SERIOUS bomber credentials; but my consistency with the Ventus Black 5x is just slightly better. I have a Diamana D Ltd 50tx (62g) that I'm excited to try, but its going to be a tall task to unseat the Ventus Black 5x that's currently in my bag.
  10. I agree with Howard; always have your lofts/lies checked, even if ordering directly from OEM. Re: "standard" vs. upright/flat, so long as the lie angle isn't causing you to physically dig into the turf prematurely (i.e., fat/chunk shots) who cares what the toe is doing through impact so long as you're achieving the given club's desired ball flight. There is no standard lie angle(s). OEMs have different standards from one to another and even within their own lineups. Some players optimize performance by having 0.5*-1.0* increments between clubs; other players benefit from progressive ascending/descending lie angles within their sets. Find a fitter that you can do a gapping session with and have them adjust your new irons accordingly. In terms of your left miss tendency, obviously technique plays a big role so keep working on it. That said, in addition to your lie angles, other factors that could be contributing / help you offset your left tendency include: (1) shaft selection, (2) grip size, (3) club weight / swing weight. (1) shaft >> the way your shaft is unloading through impact could be negatively impacting. Increasing shaft weight can help hold the clubface more open through impact. (2) grip size >> the fine folks at TXG did an interesting video about how grip size can help a player hold the clubface more open through impact. (3) club weight/swing weight >> similar to #1 & #2 above, adding a little raw weight / swing weight can help a player hold the clubface more open through impact All of these tweaks can help slow the clubs rotation/flipping through impact. Hope this helps.
  11. I didn't notice a substantive difference in my ball flight or ball speeds across the 3 profiles; for me it all just came down to "feel" in the sense that I feel like I can get a lot out of my 85-90% effort swing with the tipped 50x. In terms of playing around with the front/back weights in the Sim2 head - that'll come down to your desired launch/spin parameters. All else things being equal, if you lighten the backweight, you'll push the CG balance point of the head forward which should knock off spin & lower your launch. Conversely, if you only lighten the front weight, you'll push the CG balance point back which should increase your launch angle & your spin rate. It's all trial & error though my friend! The adjustable loft sleeve to offset OR accentuate the impact of the head weight manipulation.
  12. If you like the "feel" of the tensei white in your driver, a natural shaft to try would be the corresponding blue profile. Across Mitsubishi's matrix, the blue profiles are designed to be slightly higher launching/spinning relative to the corresponding white profiles (which is typically achieved by having relatively softer mid- & tip-sections). Again, no promise that your swing dynamics will produce Mitsubishi's desired outcome. More importantly in your case, I don't believe mitsubishi offers a Tensei blue (non-pro) 85stiff... I'll echo what @Stuart_G said; "test everything you can get your hands on to see what works best" because absent one of us having you in our respective fitting studios, we have no idea how you'll react to any given shaft.
  13. It's not common to match shafts between drivers & fwy woods. That's not to say it doesn't happen on occasion... but they're very different clubs! I'd say that matching shafts is more of the exception as opposed to the rule. Think about it, your driver is the one club in your bag that you're suppose to hit up on AND are always hitting off a tee. Conversely, your 5wd, like all the other non-driver clubs in your bag, you're supposed to be hitting down on AND likely hitting off the deck as often (or more) as you hit it off the tee. These different use cases typically necessitate different shaft profiles. That said, if you're playing a 75g shaft in your driver, I would agree that a 70g shaft in your fwy wd is likely far too light. Given the shorter playing length, you typically need to start with a heavier profile such that when you cut it down to length its not significantly lighter than your driver shaft.
  14. I'm currently gaming the Black 5x, tipped 1.5" in my Sim 9* (turned down to 7*). I've tried the black 6x & 6tx profiles with various tipping amounts, but I wanted to play slightly overlength & with a midsize grip (46" + MCC +4 midsize). The 5x profile helped me solve for my desired D5 sw using these components. My ball speed is 170-175 and the tipped 5x more than holds up to my SS with a very pleasant load/unload "feel". But, as noted regularly on these forums, "feel" is 100% subjective and very dependent on the individual's swing characteristics. As for your question re: cutting the shaft down 0.5" - 1.0", it's hard to quantify the potential impact on your ball speed (much more important than swing speed IMO). Depending on your strike location at the various playing lengths, your ball speed could increase, decrease, or hold steady. All things being equal, going shorter usually necessitates a slight tweak to your loft & lie if the goal is to maintain launch & spin parameters (typically want to add loft & move the lie angle more upright vs. longer playing lengths). If your goal is simply to knock off a few points of swing weight, have you considered simply swapping out the weight in your driver head (-6g)?
  15. I'll echo the DI-8s suggestion. Fantastic fwy wd shaft! If you want to stay within the Fuji family, the Atmos TS Red also comes in an 8s profile.
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