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  1. Thanks guys. Very impressed by the turnaround on responses here. I'm betting on Sunridge since he likes things close. Is it a nice course?
  2. Next month I'll be visiting a buddy in Fountain Hills for a golf trip and he said one of the "surprise" courses we'll be going to used to be private but he won't tell me the name. Does anyone know what that might be? I'm not sure if it just became public or was private many years ago. Thank you!!
  3. I had a conference in that area and played at Celebration. I remember it was reasonably priced and the staff was accommodating for me being a single and let me go out earlier. They have a cool range where you hit it into a pond with floating islands.
  4. I’ve never thought about how much money it has saved me until I think to all the times I’ve looked for a club I wanted to but but came up empty handed.
  5. Same way you'd get enough heat to pull a shaft out of a bonded wood head. The adapter wouldn't come loose because of the way a shaft puller/extractor works. The same time it's pulling on the shaft, it's also pushing against the hosel - which is the adapter, not any other part of the head. Now (as RI_Redneck suggested), if you could jury rig the shaft extractor to push on the head w/o pushing on the adapter, you may (or may not) get the results you're predicting. Hard to say which bond would release first. Good point - but I don't think Ping had an adjustable fairway a few years ago
  6. If you are just starting out why not go right handed? When you are first starting the golf swing feels weird and unnatural regardless of which side you're hitting from. I say this as a fellow left hander who plays right. I swung a baseball bat long before a golf club and being a lefty hitter had its advantages so it was by far the more natural feeling of the two when I started.
  7. Any clue why someone would glue it in the first place?
  8. I bought a 3-wood off the internet a couple years ago. When it came, I was able to unscrew the bolt on the head but when I went to remove the shaft it was glued in place. Now that I’m selling the club, I’d like to offer the adjustability. Is there an easy way to un-glue the shaft?
  9. I guess it’s a quantity/value tradeoff. . IMO the quantity trumps the value because, like was mentioned earlier, you have to buy to try.
  10. Growing up as a pitcher in baseball and playing throughout college, being a lefty was a great asset. Now that I’ve started golfing, it’s a pain in the a** - especially with equipment. I just want you righties to know you’ve got it made and next time you’re at a golf shop or expo, pretend to be a Left for a few minutes and share in the struggle. That is all
  11. PGA Superstore web site for the F7. Gotta be a lefty though.
  12. Hey Everyone, I was able to get a USED XR 16 3-Wood for $33 and a NEW Cobra F7 3-Wood for $83. . Both are the correct flex and everything. Which should I keep? What should I do with the other?
  13. Sorry, mean to say 60,56,52 currently. . I don’t necessarily “want” or “not want” certain distances. My normal PW goes that far on a normal swing - nothing I can do about it (I don’t have the luxury to get a new set). It’s been a trend with these mid-handicap irons to be strong lofts. The question isn’t whether I need to do something about mending the gap. That’s obvious - the answer is yes. . The question is: Is a GW that is from the iron set I currently have (in this case an X2Hot GW) any different than buying say a 48* SM5. . Ideally I’d get the 48* SM5 but they’re hard to find being a le
  14. PW goes 135-140 and GW is 105-110. I have 60 56 and 50 currently. GW is the only SM5.
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