KevCannon

I had been playing PX 6.0’s in all my irons and all wedges, and was looking for just a bit more feel in my sand and lob wedge. Some people suggested soft stepping the PX 6.0 (which I still want to try but don’t have any decent club builders near me that I trust), x100 in wedges- both straight in and soft stepped), or going 1/2 flex down so PX 5.5. The easiest thing for me to try was ordering a sand and lob wedge with PX 5.5 in both, and so far I am really liking the new sm8’s with the 5.5’s in them. Gives me the same PX feel that I am used to and prefer, while giving me much more feel on part

I’m still playing those X Forged but have been thinking about what Iron I will play next. I haven’t hit the zx7’s outdoors yet, but they felt good indoors. Going to try the new Mizuno’s when they come out as well. Hard to match the feel of the X Forged though.

Cantlay may have switched to that in his driver recently too. Haven’t seen to many ZF’s in a 3 wood though. Intriguing shaft as well as the BF, but I haven’t hit either.

That would be my thinking, lol. At least give Ventus Black a fair and honest trial run, you could always resell it. Or the real WRX thing to do would be buy the Fuji and whatever MRC you decide on, and take both to range and course a few times, keep the better performing shaft. I used to be a Mitsubishi fan but as I have said in numerous posts recently- I’m definitely not a fan of all the f*ckery they have been doing with only TX flex having the top end materials.

113 swing speed says carry distance of 269. You stated your carry distance is 265…. So 4 yards less? That’s pretty damn close. Also you said you have Ventus Black 7x in driver and 3 wood, have you tried a Ventus black 6x in driver? That could give you a couple more mph in swing and more importantly ball speed.

Not sure if this was a question for me or different poster, but I have a Ventus blue (velocore) 6x driver shaft that I had been using before switching back to my TP. So I (generally) knew what the Blue 7x would play like in a 3 wood. My driver swing speed is around 112 and was playing Blue 6x at 45” no tipping, went with 0.5” tipping on the 7x in 3 wood at 42.75”. I wouldn’t say I’m always an X flex guy, I just know the Ventus blue profile. Has a lot of feel to it but is stable at same time.

Simple drill that might help- grip the club with only your lead hand (slightly lower down grip), put roughly 60-70% of weight on front foot, ball middle stance or slightly back, keeping your left arm kind of rigid- think of bringing club back using your lead lat/shoulder, then turn through the ball at your target using same lead lat/shoulder. Every once in a while I will do this as it helps me regain the feeling i am looking for. Very little hand and arm manipulation like Stricker’s move. You can even put 90% of pressure on lead foot if it helps you more.

Yes, Ventus Blue Velocore performs that way for me. Mid to mid/high launch with low to low/mid spin. I just got a 7x for my 3 wood and so far so good. I am able to turn it over a little easier if needed, compared to Ad TP that has been in my 3 wood for a few years now.

Ventus Blue (velocore) 7s would be a good one to try, as well as Red 7s. The MRC cluster-f*ck will require some research, all those blue profiles after the Tensei Pro Blue can be tricky. The regular CK Blue is a much softer profile and was a stock shaft in numerous drivers. AV Raw Blue, and AV Blue have the higher end materials (boron tip, carbon/kevlar weave through entire butt section, etc) only in the TX flexes. I think that’s accurate but could be missing some things, honestly I have just been avoiding MRC because of it.

I’m still using its replacement, Rogue sub zero.

The new material Lamkin Deep Etch feels just slightly larger to me. The Deep Etch Cord also feels slightly larger with same amount of tape.

Just refer to Stuart’s post as he explained it well. I know from dealing with Callaway if you want a shaft tipped, you have to specify Tip Trim or Hard Tip Trim - 0.5” or 1.0” etc. From speaking directly with different customer service reps in their build department, it must be specifically requested otherwise zero tipping even on fwy woods. As Stuart said, just go by shaft manufacturers recommendation or personal preference.

Sounds like a good place to start. I use a callaway x forged UT with same shaft as my irons, have used it from fairway, rough, and of course from the tee with zero issues. You may find that you can get away with just the 24*.

Never choose a shaft based on what you read about profiles. PX 6.0 and s300 would feel very different to most, but there are always some that may not notice. Sounds like maybe that’s not the best fitter out there.

@Valtiel is spot on, the shaft is better thought of as a timing mechanism. If you find the correct shaft profile, weight, and length paired with the correct driver head then it should lead to a good strike location more consistently. So many variables in play that lead to good launch conditions.