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Adam C

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  1. Good to know on the parallel tip. That would be why I was remembering blind boring these shafts into the Titleists and not tipping. Although they obviously made a longer tip version at least for Titleist because it was a standard option in the Titleist drivers and was thru bore installed. Think it was Prolite, EI-70, YS-6, and Fuji Speeder for Titleist that were the options and all were installed thru bore.
  2. Not sure about the parallel tip section but pretty sure 2 inches is wrong. No one has only a 2 inch parallel tip section. I believe they were 3.5 or something similar. The 3.5 and 35 are the same. Both refer to the torque which was, 3.5. They also made a 4.5 shaft with you guessed it, higher torque. They came in both burgundy and gray, same exact shaft. Weight was I believe 62g-64g raw. I could be remembering wrong but I think Grafalloy recommended blind boring these shafts into Titleist and that they did not recommend tipping them. They also made a fairway version which may have
  3. Another option. Go with the X100 in the wedges and add a few grams of lead tape to the heads. Bring the SW up a point or two. Since you like heavier this might be a good feel in that it will slightly soften the X100 and give a bit heavier feel to the wedges. Also much easier to mess around with vs numerous tipping experiments.
  4. The "load" or feel of the shaft bending during the initial downswing is something that comes down to personal preference in how it feels and how that impacts your swing sequencing/timing. Some people will want that bend feel, others will not. It is not something that anyone else can recommend. For me personally I know that when a shaft feels too stiff in the initial downswing, my reaction is to try and force it from the top. This never works out well as I have lost most of my power from that initial thrust. If I could force myself to not do that move, then it wouldn't matter how s
  5. The Pro version will have the K in CK colored blue. The standard CK will just be gray on both letters.
  6. Unless you know you like heavier static weight with lighter swing weight, it's never a great idea to counterweight just to hit a SW number. I just pulled a butt weight out of a 47.5 inch driver after installing it a couple weeks ago for a scratch golfer. He was trying to hit a SW number, but quickly realized that wasn't going to work out for him. A 47 inch driver with counter weights just isn't going to feel the same as other clubs that sit more naturally at D4 or whatever.
  7. Usually those extra bits and pieces are to modify the unit to measure woods, putters, etc.
  8. I don't recall a pin being in the standard retail model. Then again it's been close to 20 years. Why are you pulling the shaft? If it is a pin my answer would usually be cut the shaft close to the end and drill out the pin but if you are reusing the shaft, that doesn't work so well.
  9. If you've bent clubs before I would say just go ahead and try them yourself. You probably know what it feels like when a club wants to bend vs when it doesn't. I would just give it a try and see what you can get out of them. Not sure you will be able to get more than a degree but can't say for sure. On the extension question, 1/2 inch length change is supposed to equal 1 degree of lie change, longer = more upright. However this makes an assumption that the player will not change anything in their setup other than moving farther away from the ball. If the golfer ends up standing tal
  10. I built a 48 inch one and went with both 10g lighter in the shaft, and softer in the flex. Seems like 9 out of 10 times when I see people trying out these extra long drivers, the miss is right (for a RH). Timing gets trickier with that added length and swinging harder just exacerbates it. The softer shaft usually keeps me from over swinging especially in the initial down swing. Like you I only have one session with the club so far so long way from a final grade on this experiment.
  11. It will very likely require bending the stem in order to fix any shaft lean/lie angle issue that comes from the change. I have never bent the stem on a TM Spider so not sure how friendly it is. Just bent the stem on a Scotty Phantom. Got about 2-3 degrees out of it. Just for reference though it may be apples and oranges with TM since I don't know what metal they use on those.
  12. If you go to one of these high end fitters be it CC or True Spec or others and don't put down any kind of ground rules about what you are wanting to pay or look at, don't be surprised when you end up in some iron with an aftermarket shaft that isn't even offered by the major OEMs and a crazy price tag to go with it. If you actually believe that there is only one "right" shaft or club for your game and don't care about money then go ahead and buy it from them. Of course the problem is, there are probably 10 different combinations of component pieces that will work just a
  13. The shaft shouldn't make a huge difference in the results over the long term assuming the weight is correct. However I would not be married to a 7 year old Oban shaft from a Club Champion fitting. Consider me skeptical.
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