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Adam C

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  1. You can get the job done with a regular collared ferrule and brass shims but the Golfworks PXG parts do make it pretty simple. They are still a bit of a pain. PXG stands for Ping with Xtra Goofiness.
  2. Everyone on this site overpowers the shaft! Pretty sure I am the shortest hitting poster here.
  3. Can we all just stop using the term "loading the shaft". It is possibly one of the least helpful, and inaccurate descriptions of what the shaft does. Basically infers that if you don't "load" the shaft then it won't perform correctly. I admit I still use the term on occasion but need to stop The shaft deflects and then straightens. Some golfers want to feel more of that deflection and some golfers don't. Okay, climbing down from the soapbox. To answer the question, yes, adding head weight will allow the shaft to deflect more and in my experience most golfers prefer that feelin
  4. Should be fine. Just take your time and listen to the metal.
  5. It will "fall" more closed when you loft up but by how much is never a hard and fast number. Two different drivers of the same model may sit slightly different on the ground based on variations in tolerances in the build. Also depends on the kind of grass you play on and how you setup to the ball (ie hand height). All that is to say that we really should just acknowledge the face wanting to fall open or closed but really focus on the loft change based on square faced setup. Also with TM, you will be increasing the lie angle with any change you make to the hosel, either up or d
  6. If you are asking the question, the answer is yes!
  7. Set of 8 Nippon Modus3 105s shafts. Taper tip with GP Midsize MCC grips. Prepped and ready to glue. Lower 48 only, no trades. SOLD
  8. I think it is extremely likely that they pick out new shafts every few months that don't show up as available options from the OEMs and really try and get people into them. I saw someone recently whose full bag fitting didn't have one shaft that was available from the OEMs and that took some doing since many of the heads were Titleist who probably has the most extensive list of available aftermarket shaft custom options. That included a Mitsu C6 hybrid shaft. How random is that shaft until you again realize that it's not an option from any OEM club company.
  9. This is classic boutique fitter play. What an amazing coincidence that the shaft you were fit into isn't available as an upgrade option from any of the major club OEMs, meaning if you want that set up you need to have it built by the fitter or go through the leg work of sourcing it yourself which most people won't tackle. What are the odds??
  10. Since you already said you won't use them and they have $0 value, why keep them? Garbage can or stick them out on the street and see if someone comes by and takes them.
  11. Lead tape and tip weights inside the shaft. Would strongly recommend not using powder as it will make your putter feel like putting with wet sand. Did a Scotty Bullseye years ago with tungsten powder years ago and made the purest feeling putter ever into the polar opposite.
  12. Most important thing to pay attention to during a fitting and something that probably won't even be mentioned by the fitter is impact location. Getting the correct impact position and maybe adjusting the loft, can do more to fix launch and spin issues than any aftermarket shaft.
  13. Brass shims are the most underrated club building tool out there! Always have some on hand.
  14. Rahm's driver shaft will run you $70.
  15. These high end fitters are just a scam. I don't know how you can view this as any more than that. Convince a person they need a high end premium shaft, then try to make sure that the high end shaft they "hit best" is either not available as a stock option or only available as a "proprietary shaft" from the fitting company. Then jack the price up on all the components, throw in a shaft PURE and away you go. I guess some people don't care about money, and far too many just don't know any better.
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