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Adam C

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  1. Have you looked at the Cleveland CBX2 line. Looks very traditional at address (slightly larger head). Very forgiving but more adaptable for closer shots around the green. I think Callaway has also just released a similar style club but I have not seen it in person yet.
  2. Why not just turn the shaft 180 and put back in? Unless the graphics are obnoxious, that will put things back to standard so you don't need to worry.
  3. You don't need the rubber jaws, just the plain vise jaws. If you are worried about scratching the adapter, you can put 2-3 layers of masking tape or duct tape over the vise jaws first.
  4. That aluminum is very soft so you need to be very careful when drilling it out at all. I prefer to use one drill hole followed by a long screw. You can then heat the tip and pull the screw with pliers or shaft puller.
  5. Ball position. Consistent ball position is going to be far more beneficial than different putter styles IMO. Move the ball position back a centimeter and that should take care of the face. If you have a chalk line and a flat putting green, you can get yourself dialed in pretty simply.
  6. Just as an explanation for the tape. I have a set of MP18 MMCs that I pulled the Modus3 120s out of and replaced with some Nippon NSPro 1150s (more back weighted shafts). Now I have KBS Tours 120g in there. In both cases I had to add between 6 and 10 grams of weight to the heads to bring them back into the D3 range where they started with the Modus shafts. Those reinforced tips are heavy and need to be accounted for when changing shafts.
  7. Maybe. There is a rule that says 1 degree per half inch but that is not always the case because some people may change their posture with the longer club, others will just be further away from the ball. Best bet would be to extend them and then see how the lie angles are at that point. Sharpie test for that.
  8. One inch will at about 6 SWP per iron although the short irons will be heavier than the longer ones. 30 grams extra of grip would put the scale around 7-8 pts lighter but I would not recommend just adding head weight for the purpose of balancing that out. Then you will just end up with a really heavy (static weight) golf club. Don't worry about what the final SW number is, just figure out if you like the feel and can control it, and if not then start adding weight until you get the result you are looking for.
  9. Can we all agree that Cool Clubs sounds like the club brand you would buy for a 5 year old.
  10. Just look at the pros and see how often they change their iron shafts even if they change the heads. That should tell you what you need to know.
  11. Adam C

    Freeze it.

    If your options are either do this or throw the club out then I would say sure, try it. If you wanted to keep using it, seems like 10% chance of success. Not sure how you plan to keep the water inside the head as it expands and not just seep out whatever way you put it in?
  12. So I am just wondering what irons should be included in this battle. Plan is to try and actually find these clubs also and test them out. What do you think? Not looking for niche personal preferences or obscure Japanese forged heads, but big major huge blockbuster selling irons that everyone owned or had friends who owned. Two off the top of my head; Ping Eye 2 Tommy Armour 845 Silver Scot What else you think?
  13. Think you hit it right on. Just go about 10g up with a similar profile to the irons. Weight is most important, so don't worry about the brand. Similar profile will just ensure that they feel similar when swinging.
  14. Thats golf. No rules, no laws. Everyone does things a little different. That's why TM will soft step x100 but at the same time tip every driver shaft 1 inch?? I am sure they have a reason and I am sure it makes sense to some people.
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