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revanant

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  1. On this point, I actually find there's merit to smaller irons being easier to hit well. It's why I love my Apex MBs. I'm no physicist, but I think when the iron is about the same size as the golf ball, you're bound to get more of the sweet spot on the ball. At least, that's what I tell myself, and it seems to work. The '18 Apex MB and Blueprint are about neck and neck for size. In my mind, they're a more accessible version of the Miura BB, which I have yet to see in person. And feel-wise, Apex MB remain the softest forging I've hit. Clearly, I think the Apex MB is
  2. Iron update -- my Apex MBs beat out the Miura CB-301s. Better aesthetics, feel, and numbers.
  3. I haven't hit the Zx7, but I preferred the 785 to the Z-forged when I hit them against each other. 785 was noticeably softer on good strikes, and I found I preferred the ball flight.
  4. The issue with "jacked lifts" is really a question of whether the claimed benefits of iron tech are doing what they say on the tin. If, when adjusted for loft and length, two very different heads put up indistinguishable numbers, it pokes at the idea that advances in iron tech justify spending money to replace older iron sets. Even worse if the newer iron proves less consistent across good vs bad strikes. The Mavrik heads had a particularly bad showing in Mark Crossfield's hands. They may still fit @pinestreetgolf very well. But that bad showing complicates the idea that th
  5. To me, the larger point is just that iron tech hasn't accomplished very much over decades. If the difference between my MP-4 6 iron and AP 1 7 iron is a quarter inch in length but the same general performance, then what gains did tech accomplish? In this vid, shared by @TigerInTheWoods, at the same loft and length, the difference between the irons was essentially 300 RPM traded for 2 degrees of launch. Generally, I would probably prefer more spin to more initial launch, since irons are meant to hit a number and lower spin can lead to less p
  6. Thanks--that was a good video, and the Apex MB has some direct relevance to my bag. I remember doing the math a while back and realizing that the only difference between my AP1 7 iron and MP-4 6 iron was a quarter inch in length. On the cg side, I've generally found I do better with a lower cg iron, but the Apex MB is a bit of an oddball. On paper, maltby has the cg at around .9, but I find the iron is basically indistinguishable from my MP-4s or old Hogans, which have CGs in the .7 range. Plus, Mark Crossfield was striking the MB pretty low to get his results, so I'm i
  7. Total agreement here. I proved this to myself a year ago, when I had the unique convenience of living in an apartment building with a golf simulator. Basically concluded that GI didn't improve launch, spin, or consistency, but did tend to drop spin on more strikes than my "less forgiving" irons. Long story short, they were just less predictable, which didn't improve my game. Personally, I thought this video kind of highlighted my own experiences on the monitor. I've shared it before, but it can be eye-opening for those that haven't seen it and automatically assume that any irons old
  8. Golf club prices have gotten a bit out of whack with Covid, but a cheap set of BH Grinds might be the best buy in golf. They're indistinguishable from my redlines on feel and you can really see the DNA that led to the '18 apex MBs.
  9. Personally, I've never bought a full set of new irons. I've gone through club champion fittings, but knowing how much depreciation goes into equipment that's even slightly used and that golf clubs plow into the ground, I haven't been able to bring myself to pay full sticker price on anything in my bag. That being said, you know your specs. If you want a luxury purchase now, but don't want to stop into a store or a club fitter due to COVID, I know how I would approach this. Option 1: Lightly used clubs with a return policy. I actually just plunked down $570 for a set of Miur
  10. I stumbled on blades on a lark. Picked up a random Apex MB 7 iron and was shocked at how easy it was to hit well. Shortly thereafter, I kicked out the 716 AP1s in my bag for a set of MP-4s. Now, my apartment is home to a set of 1988 Hogan Redlines, Hogan BH Grinds, MP-4s, and Apex MBs. All are eminently playable, and my ball striking and confidence has improved from playing these irons regularly. Plus, since they're all used, I spent about $100 for my two Hogan sets (combined), $300 for my MP-4s, and $200 (with trade in) for my Apex MBs. I'd rather have 4 fun, distinct sets than a
  11. Looking forward to putting a few fun rounds in with my Apex Redlines and BH Grinds--they flat out perform.
  12. New iron update--found a needy set of 4-PW Miura CB-501s in Modus 120 Stiff that needed a good home, so I've decided to adopt them. The adoption fee was reasonable enough (~$600). I've hit the 7 iron before and came away impressed, and recently had a fun testing experience with the Titleist 620 CBs. I'm hopeful the Miuras will outdo the 620 CBs on launch/spin/descent for half the price of a new set. If not...well..they're not blades.
  13. Totally agreed. I'd have zero issue putting the t100 in the bag. On paper, it's my dream iron. And I'm willing to pay for maximum spin and descent angle. I'd be happy to test them again. It might have been a "small sample" result. But as much as it seems like the cb should be a wasted option, it really shined when I hit it and it has a VCOG in line with my old MP-4s, so it might just be a design quirk that works for me.
  14. I like a 3 wood that's adjustable and that can do double-duty off the tee and off the deck. This turns into an easy answer--any Cobra fairway wood with Baffler rails (F7 and above).
  15. For what it's worth, if I was playing to scratch with G410s, I'd pull a Tommy Fleetwood and fill my house with every set of G410s I could get my hands on.
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