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Philomathesq

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  1. I have an Atmos TS Black 7X in my backup driver and am considering putting that shaft into my gamer. It is the best driver shaft I've played. Like @Red4282, I didn't see the Ventus Black as an improvement. To me, the Atmos is a better feeling shaft and I am much more laser-like with it than with the Ventus Black. The Ventus Black is by no means a whippy shaft, but I feel the Atmos is much more stable.
  2. I find the C-Tapers to be smoother and better feeling than the PX. I've played the C-Taper 130X (my current shaft) along side the PX 6.5 and the PX is a much harsher shaft. I, too, find the C-Tapers to be a higher flight than expected, but it's definitely not an issue. I will disagree with @bodhi555 regarding the elbow pain. I've been playing C-Tapers for some time now and I've never had any issues with pain. I played the DG TI X100's before the C-Tapers and I couldn't make it through 36 holes without excruciating pain in my wrist (I have arthritis). I've had no such issues with the C-Tapers.
  3. I spent a good bit of time at the range today trying out the Ultralite Medium, Tour Medium, Tour Large, and Tour XL. Bottom Line: I just bought a full set of Tour XL's. I normally play GripMaster leather grips, which I still love. But, the JumboMax feel so much better in my hands and my contact was definitely improved. And, my ball flight with the JumboMax is perfectly neutral. Despite this, I was able to fade and draw the ball, though it did take more effort than it normally takes. As far as differences between the grips, there isn't much other than feel, at least to
  4. Has anyone had any success reaching out to JumboMax? I received a sample pack this morning and, unfortunately, they sent the wrong grips (the shipping manifest and my order show the grips that were supposed to be sent, but the actual grips are wrong). I emailed them this morning and have called them to no avail (every call goes to voicemail). I understand that it is Corona-times, but I was really hoping to have grips to install and use this weekend, which appears to be out of the question at this point given that it's Wednesday afternoon and they use two-day shipping. If you have a
  5. This. I don't use the Roo's, I use the Master Swinger's, but they can't be beat for a no-glove setup. Even in the 90%+ humidity and 100*+ heat in southeastern Texas, they hold up.
  6. When I blew them on, I used standard blue painters tape and sprayed it with grip solvent to make sliding it on easier. I didn't have any issues with slippage.
  7. Yes. I just installed a few this weekend with air. They were a little stubborn at first, but they went on relatively easy after the initial trouble. Caveat: I installed the Ultralites, so I can't comment on how easy/hard it is to blow on any other model.
  8. I find I hit my irons much better if they are 1/2” long and a few degrees upright (63.5* 7i). But, I play my driver at 44.5”, 3W at 42”, and 3H at 39.5”, with my 4i at 39”.
  9. To be accurate, I don't think Tiger cared about carpets matching drapes off the golf course, he just wanted to park in whatever garage he could find, regardless of whether that garage was at Perkins or a nightclub.
  10. That's helpful information. I know it's a silly reason (color choice, that is), but I recently just built a new set of clubs using neon-ish yellow shafts and neon green ferrules. As such, the neon green and black of the Tour's is much preferred over the red/white/blue color scheme of the Ultralites.
  11. I'd love for someone to weigh-in on the swingweight issue. I know @Hack Daddy mentioned it briefly, but I'm hoping someone may be able to expand a bit more. Specifically, I'm considering the Tour XL's (the UltraLight's could work, but the color scheme on the Tour XL's is much more to my liking, as petty as that may be). My current grips weigh 56 grams, or 66 grams less than the Tour XL's. Per standard swingweighting calcs, all else being equal, my clubs should go from D7 to C3 based on this extra weight. I'm not going to say I'm the most sensitive to swingweights, but I imagine the difference
  12. I ordered a set with C-Taper 130's. I play Apex MB'S with the same shaft and I was getting about a club longer with the 770's.
  13. After two range sessions and one 18-hole round, I'm sad to report that I'm going to be listing my P770's on the BST. They are excellent irons, but they are not for me. I bought them on a whim just to see how they'd work out, but as someone who has only ever played solid, single-piece forged irons, I can't get used to the feel. They also fly further than in used to, and I don't want to have to re-gap my wedges. I think the 770's are perfect for anyone that had been playing cast or hollow-body irons. I'm just not that person.
  14. PM'd so as not to hijack the thread. ?
  15. Not the person you asked, but I demo'd the P's and T's and the P's were just way too hot for me. Given the size and loft differences, I think it would be very difficult to blend the P's and T's without some serious tinkering. The T's have more than enough juice and forgiveness in the long irons that, IMO, the P's don't need to be considered. For reference, I'm a 6-ish cap and iron play is the best part of my game.
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