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Brenkj

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  1. Thanks for all the responses. I'm already paying a bunch of money for monthly club dues, so I don't see also paying a bunch more money to practice at a separate range. Follow-up question: The range at my club has two surfaces at each spot - one that is very short, hard turf like what I see at most ranges; and another that has longer, "shaggier" turf and an overall softer feel (see picture). Would I be better off hitting my iron shots off this softer turf better mimic actual grass? Thanks.
  2. I've taken lessons every other week for the last few weeks, and I've been working on the tips my instructor gives me most weekdays in between. I then play with my regular golf buddies every Sat. and/or Sun. The range at my club is closed Mondays, then hits off mats Tues. - Fri., then on grass Sat. and Sun. The last 2 to 3 weeks I've been hitting my irons pretty darn well off the mats during the week, but then I get on grass on the weekends - both on the range and on the course - and I don't hit them nearly as well (if fact, not well at all). Is this a common phenomenon or am I just a
  3. Thanks for the responses. I hit my fairway woods reasonably well, but I can always use a little more accuracy and consistency. So, working backwards, if I'm using my 7 wood basically as my 4 iron, should the 7 wood be .5-inch shorter than the 5 iron? Or does the fact that it's a wood mean it should be a little longer? I'm sure these are pretty basic questions, but I'm learning as I go. Thanks.
  4. That’s a good idea. I can put the 5 in the 3, and the 7 in the 5. Dunno what I’ll do about the 7 wood though.
  5. When I bought my driver (Titleist TS2) the salesman suggested I have it cut down an inch and a half to increase control and accuracy, which we did. Once I felt comfortable with the driver, I bought TS2 fairway woods with the same shafts to match the driver. I now have 3, 5 and 7 woods in the TS2. But it just occurred to me that I never cut down the shafts on those fairway woods at all (my 7 wood is at least 2 inches longer than my 5 iron). Should I cut down those shafts as well? If so, how should I determine the right amount to cut off of each? Thanks.
  6. How is shaft length measured for fairway woods? Is it the length of just the shaft disconnected from the head, or is it the length of the assembled club (head and shaft)? Thanks.
  7. I was at a local municipal course driving range today. Near the end of my practice, I decided to do some "flag hunting." I picked out a flag that looked like it was about 100 yards away, and I pulled out my 52* wedge, which I have always hit right at 100 yards. My short wedges are the only clubs in my bag that I consistently hit pretty darn well, and true to form, I hit 10 or 15 balls to within 5-10 feet of that flag, which I was really happy with. Just for grins, I took out my rangefinder and shot the flag: 80 yards!!! WTF??!!! All of a sudden I'm hitting my beloved
  8. Quick follow-up question. I've always played regular flex in all my clubs (irons, driver, fairways, etc.), and I've been told by several salesmen and fitters that regular flex is best for me based on swing speed, etc. But I had such a hard time finding a regular flex U510 that when I saw the really good local deal on a stiff flex one, I jumped on it. So far I'm hitting it just as well or better than most of my regular flex clubs. It is a graphite shaft, versus the steel shafts in all my other irons. Could that make a difference? In other words, are "stiff" graphite shafts sometim
  9. I'm not sure I understand the last two comments (from ronnbee and capking).
  10. Well, I wound up finding a good deal on a barely used Titleist U510 4-Iron at a local golf shop. It has immediately become my second favorite club (no club will ever beat my beloved 56-degree wedge). I can't seem to hit a bad shot with it. Everything is at least pretty straight, with decent distance and a nice launch angle. Now I'm contemplating whether I should replace my 5 wood - which I like a lot - with another, lower-lofted U510.
  11. You also make a good point about the U510 versus the U500. I hit my friend's U500 really well, but today I hit the U510 in a golf shop today and I felt like I didn't hit it nearly as well.
  12. Thanks for the responses. Tilasan - you make a good point. If the utility club tends to go further than a regular iron, a 1-degree gap might be enough.
  13. Like many mid- to high-handicappers, I have always had trouble hitting 3 and 4 irons, so recently I've been using hybrids instead. But I don't hit hybrids very well either. Last weekend I hit some shots with a friend's utility iron (Titleist U500), and I loved it. So now I'm looking at getting one or two U510's (for greater forgiveness than the U500) to fill the gaps between my 5 iron and my fairway wood. My 5 iron is 23 degrees. My fairway woods (Titleist TS2) are 18 degrees, and 15 degrees. My thought is to start with one U510, and if I continue to hit it really well, get a se
  14. Quick update: I'm an idiot. The U510 does come with a 5.5 shaft. Sounds like that's the obvious choice for me, since I think my swing sits in between a regular and a stiff. Make sense? Thanks.
  15. Thanks for the responses. I was recently fitted for a new set of irons (Mizuno Hot Metal Pros). The fitter had me hit a number of shafts and settled on the Dynamic Gold R300, 101g. He said the Modus stiff shafts were not a bad option for me, but thought the regular flex DG's were a little better choice. So would that put me more in the 5.0 or the 6.0 for the HRZDUS Black Smoke shafts for the U510? I notice the first response mentioned a 5.5 shaft, but I don't see that listed on the Titleist site as an option.
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