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Everything posted by Brenkj

  1. Thanks for the detailed response. I remember when I asked about adding the weight, the fitter mentioned in passing that he was going to "pull the heads" so it sounds like he added the weight that way. It's still going to be a bit embarrassing to go back in and ask to reverse the changes I already requested, but at least I know it's possible now.
  2. Warning - potentially stupid questions from relative golf newbie ahead! About 3 months ago I got fitted for irons by a really good local fitter who builds all his own clubs in-house using OEM components. When I tried out the irons, the PW and AW felt amazing, but the rest of the irons felt a little too light in comparison. I called and he confirmed that he had done his standard weighting setup of building the two wedges to a D6, and the rest of the irons to a D1-D2. I asked if he could alter the rest of the irons so the whole set was a D6 also and he said "no problem."
  3. Thanks for all the responses. I'm already paying a bunch of money for monthly club dues, so I don't see also paying a bunch more money to practice at a separate range. Follow-up question: The range at my club has two surfaces at each spot - one that is very short, hard turf like what I see at most ranges; and another that has longer, "shaggier" turf and an overall softer feel (see picture). Would I be better off hitting my iron shots off this softer turf better mimic actual grass? Thanks.
  4. I've taken lessons every other week for the last few weeks, and I've been working on the tips my instructor gives me most weekdays in between. I then play with my regular golf buddies every Sat. and/or Sun. The range at my club is closed Mondays, then hits off mats Tues. - Fri., then on grass Sat. and Sun. The last 2 to 3 weeks I've been hitting my irons pretty darn well off the mats during the week, but then I get on grass on the weekends - both on the range and on the course - and I don't hit them nearly as well (if fact, not well at all). Is this a common phenomenon or am I just a
  5. Thanks for the responses. I hit my fairway woods reasonably well, but I can always use a little more accuracy and consistency. So, working backwards, if I'm using my 7 wood basically as my 4 iron, should the 7 wood be .5-inch shorter than the 5 iron? Or does the fact that it's a wood mean it should be a little longer? I'm sure these are pretty basic questions, but I'm learning as I go. Thanks.
  6. That’s a good idea. I can put the 5 in the 3, and the 7 in the 5. Dunno what I’ll do about the 7 wood though.
  7. When I bought my driver (Titleist TS2) the salesman suggested I have it cut down an inch and a half to increase control and accuracy, which we did. Once I felt comfortable with the driver, I bought TS2 fairway woods with the same shafts to match the driver. I now have 3, 5 and 7 woods in the TS2. But it just occurred to me that I never cut down the shafts on those fairway woods at all (my 7 wood is at least 2 inches longer than my 5 iron). Should I cut down those shafts as well? If so, how should I determine the right amount to cut off of each? Thanks.
  8. How is shaft length measured for fairway woods? Is it the length of just the shaft disconnected from the head, or is it the length of the assembled club (head and shaft)? Thanks.
  9. I was at a local municipal course driving range today. Near the end of my practice, I decided to do some "flag hunting." I picked out a flag that looked like it was about 100 yards away, and I pulled out my 52* wedge, which I have always hit right at 100 yards. My short wedges are the only clubs in my bag that I consistently hit pretty darn well, and true to form, I hit 10 or 15 balls to within 5-10 feet of that flag, which I was really happy with. Just for grins, I took out my rangefinder and shot the flag: 80 yards!!! WTF??!!! All of a sudden I'm hitting my beloved
  10. Quick follow-up question. I've always played regular flex in all my clubs (irons, driver, fairways, etc.), and I've been told by several salesmen and fitters that regular flex is best for me based on swing speed, etc. But I had such a hard time finding a regular flex U510 that when I saw the really good local deal on a stiff flex one, I jumped on it. So far I'm hitting it just as well or better than most of my regular flex clubs. It is a graphite shaft, versus the steel shafts in all my other irons. Could that make a difference? In other words, are "stiff" graphite shafts sometim
  11. I'm not sure I understand the last two comments (from ronnbee and capking).
  12. Well, I wound up finding a good deal on a barely used Titleist U510 4-Iron at a local golf shop. It has immediately become my second favorite club (no club will ever beat my beloved 56-degree wedge). I can't seem to hit a bad shot with it. Everything is at least pretty straight, with decent distance and a nice launch angle. Now I'm contemplating whether I should replace my 5 wood - which I like a lot - with another, lower-lofted U510.
  13. You also make a good point about the U510 versus the U500. I hit my friend's U500 really well, but today I hit the U510 in a golf shop today and I felt like I didn't hit it nearly as well.
  14. Thanks for the responses. Tilasan - you make a good point. If the utility club tends to go further than a regular iron, a 1-degree gap might be enough.
  15. Like many mid- to high-handicappers, I have always had trouble hitting 3 and 4 irons, so recently I've been using hybrids instead. But I don't hit hybrids very well either. Last weekend I hit some shots with a friend's utility iron (Titleist U500), and I loved it. So now I'm looking at getting one or two U510's (for greater forgiveness than the U500) to fill the gaps between my 5 iron and my fairway wood. My 5 iron is 23 degrees. My fairway woods (Titleist TS2) are 18 degrees, and 15 degrees. My thought is to start with one U510, and if I continue to hit it really well, get a se
  16. Quick update: I'm an idiot. The U510 does come with a 5.5 shaft. Sounds like that's the obvious choice for me, since I think my swing sits in between a regular and a stiff. Make sense? Thanks.
  17. Thanks for the responses. I was recently fitted for a new set of irons (Mizuno Hot Metal Pros). The fitter had me hit a number of shafts and settled on the Dynamic Gold R300, 101g. He said the Modus stiff shafts were not a bad option for me, but thought the regular flex DG's were a little better choice. So would that put me more in the 5.0 or the 6.0 for the HRZDUS Black Smoke shafts for the U510? I notice the first response mentioned a 5.5 shaft, but I don't see that listed on the Titleist site as an option.
  18. I'm looking at buying a U510. The stock shaft is a HZRDUS Black Smoke, which uses numerical shaft flex designations instead of the traditional "senior, regular, stiff, extra-stiff" categories. How do those numbers relate to those traditional designations? I'm assuming 6.0 is stiffer than 5.0, for example, but is 6.0 firmly within the "stiff" category, or is it more of a cross between a regular and a stiff? I use regular shafts on my other clubs, but within the "regular" category, I'm closer to stiff than I am to senior. Any advice on whether I'm a 5.0 or a 6.0? Thanks.
  19. I'm thinking about trying a few lessons at GolfTec. I'm pretty impressed by the amount of technology they use to analyze students' swings and recommend changes. I'm really not a fan of hitting on an indoor simulator, which is all they use, but I know a couple of people who swear they shaved several strokes off their handicap after just a few lessons. Any thoughts? Thanks.
  20. Mizuno is in the process of discontinuing the 919 line. The Forged model was discontinued a couple weeks ago. You can certainly find used sets online - and you might be able to find a few new sets that are already configured - but you won't be able to get any sort of customization at this point. I'm not sure if the Tour model is completely gone yet. The MMC's are still fully available. If you're concerned about forgiveness, the HMB's might be a really good option. I hit an HMB 7-iron for a while on the range yesterday and it felt pretty awesome.
  21. Really basic question here: I'm thinking about changing my driver shaft. My driver head is a Titleist TS2. I've found a couple of used shafts I'm interested in online, but they have TaylorMade tips. Can the tips be swapped out fairly easily, or is a driver tip pretty much on there to stay once it's installed? Thanks.
  22. Yeah, I was deeply skeptical too, but I'm always looking for a great deal. Thanks for confirming my suspicions. I'll stay far away.
  23. I was searching online for some new irons and I came across an online marketplace called Wish.com. There are some brand new iron sets from major manufacturers for sale for crazy low prices, which makes me immediately wary of scams. But some quick research about the site seems to show that it's as legitimate as most other online marketplaces - i.e., while there are surely some scammers on there, if the seller has good ratings from other sales, there's a good likelihood they're on the level. Anyone have personal experience buying clubs off this site? Thanks.
  24. Thanks for the responses. That’s a big bummer. Any chance of finding a set of 919 Forged heads only, that my fitter can assemble with whatever shafts he recommends?
  25. I have an iron fitting scheduled in a week. The fitter I'm using does the whole measurement and evaluation, like TrueSpec, Club Champion, etc., but instead of building the clubs himself, he orders them with his recommended specs off of an online custom club store, which is supposed to save several hundred dollars compared to the other fitters. The irons I'm most interested in - based on online reviews and hitting a few balls at the PGA Superstore - are the Mizuno JPX 919 Forged. I was looking online today and many online golf stores are all of a sudden showing them as "sold out." A
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