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JJgolfwrx

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Everything posted by JJgolfwrx

  1. @PEI_Golfer They are a great value even at their retail $125/club price tag, half off even better. You got a steal.
  2. I210s have been great to fit with, however they are 8-10 weeks backorder atm.
  3. @AcesAndHoles Your experience with Mavrik lines up with what I experienced fitting with it. There's a reason why so many Callaway Staffers chose to play the tour only models. Epic Max LS has been a great driver to fit with, even the stock MCA MMT shaft fits a good amount of people. If you normally hit a fade, check your strike. With a driver since the face is curved from heel to toe, you can hit draws if you strike it on the toe.
  4. It is confusing for sure. However, I have exact measurements of the heads. So I am not guessing the performance of them. In my opinion, Max LS was Callaway's way of competiting with the DNA of the Ping G425 Max. If you like Ping G425 Max, you most likely will like MAX LS. If you like TSi3 and Radspeed, more often than not, you will like Epic Speed more.
  5. If you like Tsi3 and Radspeed, I would test out Callaway Epic Speed its the most similar.
  6. 4 wood 7 wood are killer combo 5 wood 4 hybrid is another
  7. 1. Thinner sole with same bounce: Titleist T Grind, Edel T Grind, Homna W4 Wedge....etc. Sole width is what I would look at first, then dial in the bounce for that sole width.
  8. @freddancer12 Would you consider a combo set? For example, P770 GW-7i and P790 6i-4i?
  9. @sdsarmaduk Titleist 620CB, Taylormade P7MC, Wilson Staff CB (2021).
  10. @JermWRX I'm gonna assume your ballspeed is around 125mph on average and that you have and angle of attack between 3-5 degrees. Optimal launch and spin for a 7 iron would be 15-17 degrees of launch angle and 6500-7250rpms (depending on your shaft lean, angle of attack, and strike location). This is would allow the ball that is coming into a green about a 47 degree to 51 decent angle to minimize roll out. If your ball speed is around 115mph on average and have an angle of attack between 3-5 degrees. Optimal launch and spin for a 7iron would be 17-19 degrees of launch with 6250-7000 spin (depending on your shaft lean, angle of attack, and strike location). This is would allow the ball that is coming into a green about a 44 degree to 49 decent angle to minimize roll out. In other words if you have higher launcher and spin, don't be afraid of reducing the lofts down by a degree or two. Also, the golf ball you play can be just as influential on your ball flight and decent angle. Example, Prov1 vs Prov1x you would see a higher launch and spin generally from Prov1x and therefore an increase in decent angle (more steep). Keep in mind these are just generalizations. Everyone swings differently and therefore may need different launch conditions and equipment. If you liked the p790 also give the wilson d7 forged a try! Hope this helps, JJ
  11. Srixon Zx7, Mizuno JPX Tour 921, and Callaway X-Forged 21'. Keep in mind you can always take a club with more loft and reduce the loft (Example: Taking a 34* Iron and bending it to 32*) to increase offset. Just keep in mind that depending on your angle of attack, divot depth, shaft lean will determine the correct sole width and bounce you will need, and therefore the correct club head. Out of the three, I would say test the JPX Tour and the Srixon first. They seem to fit more people than the X-forged. JJ
  12. Depends if you comparing parallel (.370) or taper tip (.355) shafts. In general, X100 has a stiffer tip and a lower balance point. KBS $ Taper has a stiffer butt section and softer tip. Both have a similar overall stiffness.
  13. @tipperi are you a right-handed golfer? If yes, G425 Max or SIMMAX2 will be great options. My first pick would be G425 for the moveable weight and adjustable lie angle to flatter. For SIMMAX2, this year the weight is more towards the toe slightly and is now fade biased. Also if you struggle with low spin and excessive curvature a driver with the weight more back in the driver is the way to go! JJ
  14. Zx5/7 combos are gonna be popular this year. I'd say that my only concern with the apex pro/ apex combo is that the apex pro takes taper tip and the apex are parallel. which has always puzzled me why they would do that. The bend profiles are different.
  15. Oh man, now I see. Answer is still similar. KBS Tour is about 5g heavier, has a higher balance point. The KBS Tour S is significantly stiffer than the Elevate Tour. You will definitely feel less "kick" in the down swing to stiffer midsection. I would expect the KBS Tour to have a lower trajectory due to a higher tip stiffness. My source is a golfshaft database from a major oem and software subscription. However, you still want to test and swing the shafts. How a golfer swings (speed, tempo, setup, and swing mechanics) as well as their miss tendencies will determine what shaft is a better fit.
  16. Tour-V Stiff will play consideribly stiffer than Eevate Tour in stiff. For example if you are gonna compare the Tour-V in terms of overall stiffness, you would have to compare it to the True Temper Elevate Tour 120X (which the Tour-V is still stiffer overall). From my experience fitting with the Tour-V, it seems to fit individuals have quick tempos, who are steeper and have excess spin. The Elevate is better for more moderate tempos who struggle with delivering enough loft at impact or in other words who struggle to provide enough launch angle, peak height, and decent angle for their ball speed. Two totally different profiles for different types of golfers. Hope this helps, Regards, JJ
  17. @KhooBot PX 6.5 and C-taper 130x are similar, but not a direct match. Seems like with the X100 you missed to the right because of the weight. Seems like your optimal weight is around 120-125g range of shafts: PX 6.5 and C-taper S+ are good choices. If you liked the feel of the X100 give the modus 125x a shot.
  18. @KhooBotOut of the shafts you hit. Which one did you feel you hit the best? Also what is the brand and model did you hit? JPX 919 Tour?
  19. @jcvandamme yea the headweight of that hybrid would be back to normal if cut to its normal stock length
  20. @jcvandamme No worries. When you change length, you change the headweight feel. Whenever you cut down a shaft, the head feels lighter and you need to add headweight. Good news is that you can experiment with double density lead-tape, then buy the weight you need through a third party vendor like billybobsgolf or ebay. After you cut the shaft: Cutting 1" is changes headfeel by 3 swingweights lighter. 2g is one swing weight heavier. So you need to add about 6 grams of headweight to get the swingweight back. Cutting 1 1/2" is 4.5 swingweights lighter or about 8g to 9gs you need to add back into the head to get the same feel. Start with adding 6g, then add 2g increments every 2-3 swings. Find the weight you like, then keep adding weight in two gram increments every 2-3 swings until it gets too heavy. Then go back to your desired weight. This is just double checking that the weight that tested the first time is still correct even after you are warmed up. -JJ
  21. If you have had success with the 4 hybrid, I would try a 5 hybrid. You want atleast a 5mph ball speed difference. Which translates to about around 10-12 yard gap between clubs. Below is a guide titleist provides on their website.
  22. @WeritoK2 They are a pretty unique profile. So it would be hard to find an exact equivelant in terms of shaft design, weight, and balance point. C-taper Lite 110 Stiff would be the closest. - JJ
  23. Shafts are player and swing dependent meaning they will perform differently depending on who is swinging them. X100 is overall heavier when cut (~126g compare to $-Taper at 122g). The X100 has a significantly stiffer tip and is classified as a low launch, low spin shaft. $-Taper has a significantly stiffer butt section and then loses stiffness towards the tip and is classified as a mid launching, low spin shaft. Only way to know what is best is to test them.
  24. Mid is a your tour inspired "C-shaped" grind. Its similar to shape to the M in the vokeys. The D-grind is meant for people who are more steep and/or create a larger divot. L Grind shape is similar to the C-Shaped Grind, but with significantly less bounce. To reiterate, D-grind is for someone who takes a large divot, L is for someone who takes little to no divot, and M is in between. If you like to open the face on your short game shots these are the grinds people will gravitate towards. All the best, JJ
  25. G410LST was a great driver for anyone who was hitting relatively center/had a slight toe miss. Anyone who likes the G410LST, try the SIM.
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