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  1. Fujikura Motore x f1 7S driver shaft! Open to a couple different heads I'd be interested in, but I'm generally just looking for the shaft. Thanks!
  2. Looking to buy, preferably 4-GW but I’m fine with less. Budget depends on if I’m need to re-grip them.
  3. Looking to buy a club from callaway preowned. I was thinking of having the driver shortened an inch. Does anyone know how they do that? Butt trimmed, tipped, or both? Will they add weights to try and match the swing weight? Thanks!
  4. Sorry for the dumb question.. got fitted for these but 1/2 short. Can I use these but install them on 4-9 irons, and find a PW/G separately? Or would that mess up swing weights or something?
  5. I watched this video about blades vs game improvement irons and it's pretty interesting. The blades ended up being ever so slightly more consistent if you look at the standard deviation. The video is flawed though, it doesn't take loft/distance into consideration, and he's probably a scratch or plus handicap. I found this article as well, which goes into exactly what I'm curious about. It wasn't conclusive, and some of the statements in the article make me not know what to think, like "distance data is sufficiently clouded by poor ball striking that we cannot rate this as confirmed" (Isn't tha
  6. Interesting. I want to buy the tour whites, but I feel like that's just my ego. I was nervous to bump up the weight of the shaft. Given what you said I'll try to find some tour whites to try and see if I strike them well. Another thing to consider is that my coach and I have been working on releasing the club. Originally I was really handle dragging and struggling to get the ball up. I don't want to over-correct buy getting different shafts necessarily, it might be a technique issue I should work on.
  7. Wow, didn't expect all the replies! I play Mizuno jpx 850 forged with xp105 shafts. My current issues are my shorter irons/wedges go sky high, and honestly my consistency is too low on my long irons to judge them. Lot of strike issues with the long irons (low shots). When I do strike them well, they spin too much and go too high, so my gapping ends up being too tight. When hitting the both the AMT blacks w/ the t300's, I was consistently striking them very pure with a 5 iron (couldn't find anything longer to try). I'm leaning towards buying the blacks and trying them
  8. I wanted to try true temper's AMT line of shafts so I went over to Roger Dunn and looked through the used sets to see if I could find a similar club to mine with them. I was only able to find the t100, t200, and t300 lines with them (their stock shafts). Unfortunately only the t300 had both the black and red shafts available. There was a t100 with white but it's hard to compare with such a different head. Anyway, I hit both t300 sets really well. From that session I'd probably go with the AMT blacks. Can I take anything away from this? Or is it just the super game improvement head what I hit w
  9. Where did you see this? Don't see it on the site, do I need to order it from the store?
  10. Ok I've reached out to ping directly to see what they say. Roger Dunn was going to charge $80 to order from Ping, which isn't terrible, but it's still close the line where I'd just buy a new driver. I definitely feel like there should be some old stock shafts laying around, it's just a matter of finding them. I'll put up a WTB post in the classifieds. Thanks for all the helpful replies
  11. I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to shafts, so I could use some help! Long story short, I either need a new shaft for my g25, or a new driver. If I were to go the route of replacing the shaft, could anyone help recommend some shaft companies/models? I was using the stock stiff option and really liked it. I found these specs about it from another website: The TFC 189D Stiff flex shaft has 4.8 degrees of torque, weighs 58 grams and launches at a mid angle. The TFC 189D Tour Stiff flex staff has 4.2 degrees of torque and weighs 60 grams. It launches at a low mid launch angle.I'm also a bit OCD
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