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cadoipi

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  1. Is your "grandkid" going to settle their wins/losses with you? If so the kid is technically still gambling. If not, you are essentially just betting yourself on their play. In my opinion this layering is unnecessary as long as the kids' names do not appear in any written record. But I understand your desire for discretion given your son's position.
  2. Insane single forcing their way though another single.
  3. One time I witnessed a fight on a golf forum regarding when a single should be allowed to play through. A lot of big talk and insults were thrown. I still don't know how it ends. I will keep you updated.
  4. I was asking which one (and hopefully the timestamp), so I could see exactly what they said.
  5. That should be a tank for you. I have a similar model from that era with a good 5+ years of heavy use. Currently use a ping pencil bag from the same era.
  6. In terms of his lead wrist he is talking about whether it is in extension/neutral/flexion. At address extension will open/loft the clubface, while flexion will close/deloft the club face. In OP's old swing, the momentum of the club at the top of the swing would force his lead wrist into extension, leaving him to the mercy of the timing gods to try get the club face closed at impact. OP is trying to make his swing such that he can initiate the downswing with his lead wrist loose and netural or in flextion.
  7. Reference to the video? What is the rational for this? Longer shaft --> flatter swing plane --> less negative AoA --> less spin?
  8. I imagine one of the largest factors is how much one's swings relies on hand-eye coordination to square the club face at contact.
  9. Draw an equator on a ball, point the equator at a target on a flat surface, and figure out how to putt so the ball "rolls". When the ball is moving the equator marks should look "still" and should not be wobbling. This is important since it gives you consistency in both the speed and the direction of your putts. A lot of things can cause this to mess up, such as not having the ball hit the sweet spot of the putter, having the putter face be open/closed to the target line at impact, or having the ball initially skid before it begins rolling. When I first tried this, I could not for the life of me get it to happen. It turns out that I was keeping the putter head too close to the ground at impact, so the ball (with a radius of .84") was making contact with almost the very top of the putter face (putter faces are 1" tall normally).
  10. Not surprising since 2.5/100 and 1/45 are pretty close...
  11. 1) Handicap based on league play only is essential. (Use ghin for week 1.) 2) Any better ball format should be with blind partners (i.e. people are matched up randomly after the scorecards are turned in). Otherwise it is easy to sandbag ("accidentally" 3-putt whenever your partner sinks a par putt first). 3) A fun twist is to let people pick their tee box on each hole (3 holes from front/middle/back in 9 hole league). Use middle tees for handicap purposes (for play and for entering score). 4) Having a skins game happening simultaneously with the weekly game keeps people having a bad day engaged. 5) Another fun variation of any stroke/point play is to only consider a random selection of holes (announced afterwards) for the purposes of the game.
  12. It certainly doesn't hurt to bend them to 56/12 and 56/6 as a trial, so give it a go and see what happens. If you never find yourself wishing you had a 54* or 58* club, then you are good. People are just telling you that by manipulating the club face you can effectively add/subtract loft and bounce (just like bending), so your solution of two 56* clubs is not necessary for your situation. For instance in soft sand if your 54/10 is good but your 58/8 is not, I would imagine opening up the face of the 58/8 a bit more than normal and/or slightly leaning the shaft away from your target would do the trick (to effectively add bounce).
  13. Agree with @rsballer10, your current set up is quite versatile. Also at your skill level I really doubt you will notice the difference in 2* of bounce (when you 58/8 becomes a 56/6 due to bending). I seem to be missing what makes you think your current set-up needs to be changed. Are you skulling your bunker shots out of hard sand with your 58/8? A quick fix for this is to not open the clubface as much on these shots (opening the clubface effectively adds bounce). Do you struggle to no skull the ball on pitch shots off tight fairway lies (with your wedges, but have no problem with lower bounce clubs)? In this case, maybe consider replacing the 58/8 with a 58/4. But buy a $40 used old wedge first with similar specs as a trial run. A wedge with little to no bounce is very unforgiving and you might chunk shots 30% of the time.
  14. The thread where we never got to learn why some people don't take kindly to having a tee pushed next to their ball.
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