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  1. There are three reasons that I’m aware of. There are certainly more. From least to most important IMO - At tournaments, the practice balls are V1’s and V1x’s. You see mentioned regularly that using the same ball consistently is at least as important as the ball itself, and I would agree from personal experience. Players using non-TM equipment are absolutely dissuaded from using TM balls. Sorry, that’s the way it is, and it makes total sense for companies to do that. It would be economically suicidal for for a club (and ball) maker to have their clubs used with a TM ball
  2. Use $50 balls and don’t pay $50 for them. For non-competitive rounds, use Lostgolfballs (not the recycled ones). You’ll do the world a bit of good and save a fair bit of cash - https://www.lostgolfballs.com/golf-balls/brands/pro-v1.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8dHI9ZGP7QIVfBatBh235wtqEAAYASACEgLJo_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Buy new balls in the spring when many manufacturers, most notably TM and Srixon have two for one sales, or use PRACTICE balls, which are fully legal cosmetic seconds.
  3. @Hawkeye77 is correct. And you’re overthinking things. Or perhaps bored.
  4. To state the obvious, you get 14 clubs, of which you’ve accounted for 9. The typical solutions are to use 3 either above your longest iron or below your PW. For most, three additional wedges is the better move. If the next longer club above your 4 iron is a 5 wood, you’re going to have a significant distance gap between them, as well as a club that’s not particularly low risk in many conditions. For many, the distance gap between their 3 and 5 woods is negligible, and the 3 wood becomes mostly a second driver for the times you’ve lost trust in the driver. Neither situation is optimal.
  5. @NRJyzr is correct to my knowledge. i210’s are already a very high launch club, particularly in the shorter clubs. Increasing their already substantial bounce and producing even higher launch is a questionable call for most players with moderate or higher swing speeds IME. Per Ping - Power Spec Loft is a fitting option for players looking to boost their iron distance or decrease spin to hit a desired trajectory window. The Power Spec is a custom-designed loft configuration that delivers a power boost in a calculated fashion without sacrificing the integrity of the club’s desi
  6. Your viewpoint is pretty typical of new players. To use running as an example, if you asked which model of shoe was ‘best’, you’d be correctly told that it’s the one that fits your particular foot and that supports your stride mechanics. Golf, done correctly, is similar. Any set, inappropriately fit, isn’t likely to be supportive of your needs. As basic fitting is typically free, or at least low cost, finding a qualified fitter should be your first goal rather than a model selection.
  7. On flatter, low cost, low construction value tracks, as well as many links-style holes, your best shot choice is to get the ball on the ground as quickly as possible with a gap wedge or similar, and let the ball roll. Unfortunately, if that’s the extent of your short-game prowess, when you happen on greens with substantial defenses, long rough, short-sided pins, and such, you’re going to get crucified. Skilled use of a 58 to 60 degree wedge is perhaps the key to good scoring for those who don’t have the time to play on a semi-daily basis.
  8. A critical measure when fitting is wrist to floor distance. Since taller people tend to have commensurately longer arms, you won’t need clubs that are 7 inches longer than normal for instance. When you change a club’s length, you also change its swing weight, overall weight, lie angle, moment of inertia, and lateral center of gravity. Generally, those are all bad things. One can compensate to some extent with lighter or heavier club heads, but there is a limit to that, and the 1 inch criteria you’re being given is fairly standard. You absolutely need to find a fitter that with experienc
  9. Jeff58

    Wedge Help

    What wedge(s) did you play previously that worked well?
  10. Mini-review - I always carry whenever the course and/or event allows. I consider the exercise and exertion to be part of the game. I know that carrying does adversely effect my score, particularly when playing more than 18 holes or on successive days. What matters most to me is how a bag carries. Pretty much everything else, as long it it is tolerable, is secondary. My local shop, with whom I’m in good standing, allowed me to test any bag in the store. I loaded each with my 14 clubs and 10lbs of water and walked around the ‘block’, which was about 200 yards.
  11. If you do a search, several respected sources have compared ‘standard’ range balls to the higher-end, with V1’s being the usual comparison. Range balls are not high-compression. Range balls are almost always 2-piece. Range balls have very hard covers for durability. The result is that they launch higher than normal and spin less. Wedges will fly high and loose distance (as you noticed). Mid irons may be close to normal distance. FW’s and driver will be significantly shorter due to reduced spin.
  12. For those who may be interested and/or haven’t heard it before, the Hoofer series base folds as a complete unit when the legs are extended. Other bags either have a foot/extension, or the base is segmented, and only part articulates. The Hoofer system makes them very stable on the ground. The downside is that the dividers crease and the volume in the base decreases significantly, resulting in club drag. The solution is to move clubs in or out when the bag is upright. It’s not quite as convenient, but it’s not a difficult habit to cultivate.
  13. Here you go. Several years ago I used this. V1’s and V1x’s were virtually always essentially perfect. The TP5 family was also very good, though with less ‘perfect’ balls. Some others were not at all good or consistent. They may be better now.
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