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Jeff58

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Everything posted by Jeff58

  1. I believe that Mr. @SmashGolfBall is correct. The original SIM is borderline low-spin in the vein of a Callaway sub-zero. It will likely launch lower and spin less. The SIM 2 should be similar to yours given a similar shaft but feel/sound rather different. The M2 is a fine driver. Most of the advantage you may find could come from the shaft selection.
  2. So, if you have a 105 handicap, you normally shoot around 177 per round? In that case, I don’t think the ball is going to matter so much . Noodles are soft and cheap. If your swing speed is low and your concept of a successful shot is that it goes in the general direction of the green, then at $1 per ball, its competition is the Kirkland, which costs a similar amount and for most players is a far superior ball. The Staff Duo is a second-tier softer compression urethane model that’s similar to the Vice Pro Soft or TaylorMade Tour Response. All three of those balls are basically interchangeable. They’re fine balls for the “average” swing speed player. There are a couple reasons to look past something like the Staff Duo. You say that you don’t want to pay for V1’s, but V1 practice balls are the same price as the Wilson. More troublesome is the current price of $22.50 for MaxFli Tours at Dick’s. It’s a world-level ball for dirt cheap.
  3. If you’re looking for a lower compression ball that acts like a high compression ball, the objective tests will tell you that it’s really tough to fight the compression/spin function. Two that succeed to a fair degree might be - Bridgestone BX S - Matches all three of your considerations. Spins a lot, low to mid flight, and softer than the VX. 2019 TP5 - Spins about the same on longer clubs but probably less on shorter shots. One of golf’s great balls. More difficult to find and obviously won’t get any easier. An alternative might also be the 2021 TP5x. It has a very soft cover that was mostly intended to increase short iron spin, but it also makes the ball feel soft for its compression. Some have found durability issues YMMV.
  4. 12. I threaten my 790’s with them but it doesn’t seem to help their distance control . https://www.taylormadegolf.com/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-TMaG-Library/default/v1463473265710/docs/productspecs/R9_IRON_SS.PDF The second page is very interesting IMO.
  5. Either The fitter fit you for maximum distance rather than dispersion. It’s an easier sell to point to the Total Distance column and declare victory. Or After you hit 30 3 woods in a row, you’re so grooved into the mechanics that you can hit pretty much any shaft. Or both. My experience has been that many fittings fail because the individual club may work well in a singular club vacuum, but when integrated into an existing set can fail rather spectacularly.
  6. I still have a dozen of these, and have started using them again as it gets colder. The more I use them, the more I’m convinced that the above is correct. The e12 reduces random error, and over time the reduction in proximity to the pin results in better scoring. For me, the distance loss for longer clubs with the e12 seems to swamp out this advantage, I.e. if I have to club up for the approach, the advantage is lost. What would be really interesting is the e12 design with a urethane cover and a 95 compression. It could be a new category of ball, the main downside being that it would be competing against the current tour-level models.
  7. Well, I personally don’t have a “whittle boat”. What I do have is a Vokey SM7 and a Cleveland CG14. Now, looking at their faces, tell me which is which (it should be easy, since one has huge grooves). In use, they’re grossly different. It doesn’t take a Phil to see the difference. Your statement - “Grooves on wedges are for debris, not spin. Wedges with no grooves spin the ball similarly to a wedge with grooves.” is incorrect. As with your whittle boat analogy, if you care to believe that in the face of what at least appears to be overwhelming evidence to the contrary, that’s fine with me. What isn’t fine is the potential that others might actually believe what you’re typing
  8. So when the R&A and USGA changed the groove dimension rules they did so for no reason? As demonstrated fairly well in this video, the lack of grooves reduces spin and increases launch angle significantly. The “before” club obviously has no debris or other substance. The reason we don’t use grooveless irons and wedges for increased distance is that when such a club is wet, the launch angle increases to the point that you are in danger of hitting yourself.
  9. i210* * Because it’s not really a Players Iron.
  10. Get the Kirklands. Your swing mechanics aren’t evolved enough to gain an advantage from a particular grind, and your understanding of how your local conditions interact with your swing and the wedge configuration is essentially zilch. The Kirklands are excellent wedges at any level and you can take some of the cash you save and find a good coach to give you a short game lesson. That alone will do more for your game than any grind option.
  11. My experience… I was part of the e12 Contact demo. The older straight ball, the e6, was very straight. It also had some of the worst green-holding characteristics of any ball. There are several changes that make the Contact far superior in that regard, perhaps the most significant is that it’s softer, much softer. That gives it the launch characteristics of a soft ball: it launches very high, and has a higher decent angle. Add a cover that spins more, and you have a far better all-around ball. The down side for me is that it gives away too much distance on driver/FW/hybrid. The Vice Pro Soft is the only unique model in their lineup. It’s “trick” is that it isn’t really soft. It’s basically a V1 clone with a lower compression. It still launches fairly high, but the flight it more linear/penetrating, and it’s spinning more, both from the urethane cover and higher compression. It’s a grossly overlooked model IMO that should perform better for the moderate SS player than the higher priced ChromeSoft or Bridgestone low compression balls.
  12. What brand/model wedges are you playing?
  13. Disclaimer- I’m not a putting instructor. Question - Which putt will go further, one at 3 ft per second that began 1 foot from the ball, or one that started 2 feet from the ball? Answer - It’s a trick question of course. The stroke length has nothing to do with the impact speed, other than there is some distance that’s “comfortably” needed to reach that speed. Watch video - What we see is that there are several levers/pendulums/sources of force. The person who appears to only take the putter back slightly further for a significantly longer putt is using his wrists more than his shoulders. Modern conventional thinking is that that’s bad, and that the majority, if not the entirety, of acceleration should be from your shoulders. My technique with a conventional putter is that inside of around 6 feet, my wrists are locked. Outside that, they are “free”, but never are they an overt generator. IMO on anything outside of 12 feet or so, 100% of your concentration must be on speed. You can do that because you already selected your start line and aligned your putter to it before “thinking” at all.
  14. As Mr. @Valtiel points out, Vokey grinds are generally differentiated by your attack angle, local prevailing conditions, and technique. There isn’t a “better players” or “game improvement” oriented grind per se.
  15. For the non-math adept, upside down…
  16. Short answer - No. Medium answer - No, and if you order a new set that isn’t in stock, you’re not going to get them anyway. Longer answer - I was fit on grass with Titleist Tour Response balls by TaylorMade. I owned the 2019 version with the same shaft (DG105 S). The only difference was grips, where the new version is clearly better. I only hit the new 7 iron. The new version was slightly higher and spun slightly more. Left to right dispersion was similar. Carry distance was similar, but total distance was about 3 yards less with the new version. This was the only quantifiable “advantage” to the 2021: it stops faster. With the 2019, I could induce the “flier effect” pretty much on demand, and the newer version was less susceptible to this, which I don’t think was a coincidence. The 2021 feels slightly different. It’s slightly “airier, clickier” for what that’s worth. My personal appearance preference is the chrome of the previous version. The end(ish) result was that I traded in my 2019 for a 2021 set. This was in great part driven by a change in shaft preference that will be included for the new set. Unfortunately, as with many others, I don’t have them in hand, and the expected delivery date had been pushed back.
  17. It completely overwhelm the forum app. You can’t take any action while it’s active. Maybe it will be gone tomorrow.
  18. Just my lo cost 0.02. You seem to prefer the feel of a counterbalanced shaft, but as they do have a general tendency to affect your angle of attack, particularly when your hands get a bit aggressive, you go to a higher swing weight in an attempt to control it, which makes it less tip stif, etc… Perhaps a slightly less counterbalanced model with a fairly stiff tip. GD AD IZ 7x comes to mind.
  19. What are you hitting? 27. Oh, I only have a 29, but it’s low spin… Yeah, that should work, or you could hit 26 hard. I’ve got a 25.
  20. You appear to have included 2 drives of around 185 yards with the SIM. Since they were clearly not representative, they’re normally excluded. If you did exclude them, the SIM numbers are significantly (or grossly in terms of spin) better.
  21. Look for my response.
  22. Hit back to back, I *believe* I can tell the difference between Vokey raw and chrome in the same model. It’s probably more sound than actual feel though. Raw wedges don’t last longer. The grooves start less sharp and very quickly dull, both by use and by accumulating rust. New, raw wedges tend to spin slightly less on full shots and similarly on partial shots according to virtually every test I’ve seen. Raw wedges do appear to generically loose less spin in wet conditions though. If I knew someone who hit their low bounce wedge very well, then went to a high bounce model and complained that it felt like a rock, I don’t think I’d consider the finish as the likely culprit. Perhaps try the Dr. Shoals treatment and check your impact locations.
  23. What set of irons are you using? What is the model and age of your Cleveland wedge? I hit my 45 degree PW 125 yards, but my 58 degree lob-ish wedge as far as you hit your 54. There’s either something going on with your wedge, or your ability to loft it correctly. Bending things won’t likely address the underlying issues.
  24. The answer is that you need to tell us, or at least yourself that by determining what your yardage gaps are. Each individual player will have a combination of swing mechanics and speeds that is indeed individual, and your club choices need to reflect that. You can determine them in several ways, usually by direct observation, or the use of some type of launch monitor system. With your current clubs, it’s likely that there will be both overlap and confusion in the results. Essentially, if you include both 3 woods, you will have potentially five clubs at the top of your bag that are intended to go “infinite distance”. In other words, your driver for instance is intended to go as far as possible rather than to stop at a predictable distance, and that’s it’s correct purpose. When you start adding more clubs that attempt to maximize distance you get chaos. With 5 such clubs…
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