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WristySwing

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  1. Prices have gone up. The Mizunos I suggested to you have C-Tapers stock in them for your budget. I suggest you take a look at them.
  2. Most of the companies prices have been going up in recent years. I'm surprised because the i500 is no cheaper than a set of T100s really...what maybe $150? That's not earth shattering. The closest to my eye are JPX919 Tour, similar finish, blade length, and offset profile. Srixon 785 is similar too, but keep in mind the 2* stronger lofts, more offset, and significant bounce increase. Srixon irons are not really for super-pickers of the ball, at least on paper.
  3. I don't know why I was included in this. I didn't say the T200 was the AP2 replacement. The closest would be the T100. When the T100s came out I said this was the AP2 replacement and got flamed by several know-it-alls because it's not technically the replacement because they don't do the multi-material badging or something anymore, or it has less offset or more bounce, whatever. It was some extremely techy detail that the average guy isn't going to really know or care about. The order goes roughly like this: 718 MB -> 620 MB 718 CB -> 620 CB 718 AP2 -> T100/T100-S 718 AP3 -> T200 718 AP1 -> T300 ???? -> T400
  4. In their blades and CBs it makes sense. However, I think a lot of it is cost. If they want to sell D7 forged at $300 cheaper than everyone else to give them a unique market then something has to give. I think having KBS 80-90-105, Tour V, and the Tour 110-130 all free along with Dynamic Gold 120 and standard Dynamic Gold is fine. Chances are you are going to fit into one of these even if it isn't perfect perfect. Most people don't get properly anyways, at least not at a big box store, so playing something like a Tour 105 Reg when you are likely better off with a C-Taper Lite 105 or Modus 105 Reg isn't going to hurt you that much that it would be super noticeable for most people. IT costs money to have inventory around. Even Srixon is charging now for non-Modus Nippon, they charge for Modus 130, and are charging for KBS Tour and Tour-V and XP, which were free in the 45 and 65 series, and weirdly charging for AMT Black when AMT White is free. They never even brought on $-Taper as an option unless you pay for it and while the Steelfiber is available in the Utility for a modest upcharge it is crazy expensive in the irons. It's just not worth it to stock all of those components and a lot of the OEMs are realizing that and moving more to a Mizuno style offering, where they have like 20 shafts and that's it. If you don't see it, too bad.
  5. I have nothing to really add here specifically about the new clubs other than the woods do look cool. As for the rest of my comments, Wilson has had a "player" driver recently in the c300. It looked good at address and came with an upgraded Fujikura Pro shaft. It was low spin and decently forgiving with a bit of moveable weight tech. It still sat on the shelf and was at a good price point ($450 CAD I think when everyone else was $600 or more). I think what somebody above me said, for now, Wilson should focus themselves on trying to position themselves in an iron and wedge market. Srixon, Cleveland, and Mizuno all did it before with success before they slowly broached into woods. I know Wilson has that coveted most wins ever in majors going for them, but at the end of the day, new golfers are starting every day and a lot of juniors don't care about some guy who won with a set of Wilson blades 40 years before they were born. Did you care at 20 years old what kind of clubs Bobby Jones or Walter Hagan used to beat so and so by 2 at the X championship? No, probably not. If Wilson stuck to their roots and kept a really traditional Staff blade, a nice Staff CB (update the V6 maybe?), and then had 2 other products, a pseudo player's distance like the D7 forged and then a total hack club like the D7 with mega strong lofts, that is all they would need. A couple of hybrids that can only be bought with the D7 line is all they need. Keep the Forged wedges. Build brand recognition around these 3-4 core irons and nice wedges and they are good and will likely see an improvement in sales enough to warrant making some woods that are not gimmicky to heck. Like c'mon the D200 or D300 had literal spikes all across the crown, they were completely out of ideas at that point. Some marketing would also help. They have loads of money to run a show that made them the OEM laughing stock and enough money to have 3-4 different Wilson Duo commercials, but not enough money to run 1 commercial saying "hey we are Wilson Staff, remember us? Look at these awesome blades and CBs we have. Guess what, we don't charge for any shaft as long as it is Dynamic Gold and KBS. K thanks bye,"? That seems a little bit odd. I only saw the D7 commercials for about 2 weeks last year when they had the group of 10-30 handicaps hitting the irons on a Trackman range and complimenting how far they went and how easy they were to hit. It's a good start for sure but it needs to be constantly run, not for a month and then disappear.
  6. No it doesn't really make sense. However, if you are looking for a higher flight then loft tends to help with that. Typically a 30* 6 iron will fly a bit higher than a 28* 6 iron, sole width and CG being equal. Forgiveness over playability would typically lend one to think think T200-T400 range. It doesn't overly surprise me. Titleist has long held the AP2 (and similar) as the flagship of their line. "Forgiving" enough for an average player to use if they really want but small and workable enough that it is still seen a lot of tour pro bags. I put almost no stock in those selector tools. All that matters is how you present your face and loft at impact. Wider soles, bigger blade lengths, higher MOI, etc. are great for helping people who might miss the middle more than they care to, but it says nothing about your impact position and how you deliver the club at the moment of impact. That is the key and is the only thing that matters and should be the only defining criteria when choosing an iron.
  7. Different places, I guess. I honestly can't say I've had someone ask my handicap anywhere in memory. Yes, the tournaments were very informal work events. I have no interest in the "official" events or those pay-to-play scrambles...I'm not a gambler or a drinker and don't particularly care for 5.5 hr rounds. I've done one or two of them a long time ago and hated every minute of it.
  8. Not the person you're asking but every PXG thread inevitably has at least 1 post very early on complaining that they cost so much or that they are snakeoil because they cost so much. I think this is just a knee-jerk reaction to that as the person has a full bag of PXGs and has likely heard it all. It's interesting that the same comments about price don't get thrown around for the upper tier Honma stuff, Epon, Miura, the Titleist CNCPT, or Epic Forged lines...it seems to solely sit on PXG.
  9. Enjoy them, OP. It won't be long before the loft police descend on this thread telling you have no control and a 21* 5 iron is just a 3 iron in disguise and you didn't gain anything. We have done well with the T400 at my shop and I suspect that will continue.
  10. No I didn't. Like I said, I don't keep track of a handicap and why I prefer a scoring average for my own records. I don't think I've ever been asked what my handicap is outside of a tournament. Where are you guys playing where a random playing partner is going to ask your handicap? In probably 15 years of playing where I can remember, I haven't had anyone ask me that point blank.
  11. You can order OEM through Club Champion, FYI. Many people have done it and posted about it on here. Just tell your fitter you want to go ahead but you want Srixon to do the build at D4. Simple. I do that all the time and am at a place similar to CC. No issues whatsoever and they usually come pretty close to ordered specs. The only way to get it perfect is to rip it apart and rebuild but it should be close.
  12. I think this is why I prefer to use scoring average to calculate my own progress. I don't play in any team games, scrambles, or tournaments. At the end of the year I average my scores over the season and see where I fall compared to last year. I find how handicap is calculated to be confusing, and frankly very skewed. When I was keeping a handicap when I was a member at a course 10-12 years ago I remember shooting one really lights out round and it cut my "official" Golf Canada in half. I had a couple of 9-holers that would have been similar to the 18 hole best round if I would have kept playing and assuming the same level of play continued that I did post. However, I just find it bizarre how quickly my handicap fell after 1 round and how it takes basically 10 horrific rounds for it to creep higher. Comparatively to the UK system where it seems to inch in either direction as they seem to understand the flux much better, something I prefer.
  13. I think you'd be around a 4-6. If you shoot 2-3 over per 9 then out of 20 games it will take your best 8. I believe (and I could be wrong here as I haven't had an official handicap in years as I am not a member anywhere and don't pay the fees) that a 9 hole round is just doubled for your 18. They don't assume you parred in. The only somewhat confusing thing is for 9 holes they use NetPar and go from there, which is kind of explained here. It seems to be you can have a 9-hole and an 18-hole hole handicap and they may differ, I presume based on the difficulty of the 9 in question. https://www.sportsrec.com/5311242/how-to-calculate-golf-handicap-with-9-holes
  14. I hit them today at the shop. I actually didn't think they feel that bad nor are they overly stiff. So I take back what I said. They certainly CPM really, really high but the feel on them is similar to like a PX 6.5 or something equivalent. It definitely is not "Rebar" as the name suggests. I actually didn't mind them and could see myself playing them. I got good ball speed out of them as well, considering I was swinging much lower than I typically do today. I wouldn't go out of my way to buy them as I think there are things out there that feel better but they certainly aren't unplayable. Truthfully I think a C-Taper Stiff or an X100 feels much, much harsher and stiff.
  15. Thank you. I definitely did not do it very healthily I will say that. I don't know much (or anything really) about body building and gaining muscle. I was more in the camp of "I'm fat, I want to be skinny" and just did that. Marking 8 years as a string bean this October and proud of it lol. I should probably tone up at some point and will do but I'm also very scared of seeing that scale tick higher, even if it is for healthy reasons.
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