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  1. I can tell you: 5 HC's miss the center too. A lot more then you think! So a newer driver will give you some added benefit of ball speed retention compared to what you game now...centered hits are not going go go any farther, and the size of that center is really no different. Its just around the club face instead of losing 8MPH ball speed perhaps you only lose 3-4. That is significant. After that, once you are comfy with your swing you can go club hunting based on look and feel but honestly those Eye 2's set the standard for CB irons in the day. Some newer clubs with engineered fa
  2. As a recovering early releaser, fix the flip. Otherwise you are just taking 1/2 club less with the same added dynamic loft and control issues. With a better swing structure, bit shallow, compressed the ball at impact you will be amazed at the change in ball flight from the high spinny shots to a penetrating ball flight with spin that stops. From there it is basically crack pipe for golfers: you just want to do it more. The fitter isn't wrong for offering as it does something, but its not the droid you are looking for IMHO.
  3. Those are pretty forgiving clubs and really not old. You may see marginally better measured ball speed with some engineered faces such as a Mavrik iron but it may be difficult to measure that without a good LM and strike location data for you It comes down to looks and feels, other clubs may look better to your eye. Looking at your WITB, the most benefit you could see in forgiveness is a driver upgrade: XR's a great club but the ball speed retention off center is where tech has been improved on just about any driver (some more then others...hard to beat a Ping for overall forgiv
  4. The Purple one I got I put into a Miura 6 iron head I sourced, just trimmed it a smidge for a standard length. I can see if you play oversized irons the 7i being the limit since its not a 40" raw shaft
  5. Callaway Preowned for all your bargain hunting needs. Both my Mavriks in like new condition sourced from there this fall.
  6. I prefer at least 1/2 hard top bags. I travel up to 10x a year with mine, been about 5 years now few rips but still going strong. Bit lighter then the full hard cases. Fighting words perahps, but this is also the only acceptable use of iron covers to help with drop dings. Having watched unloading of clubs multiple times at airports from the plane, bags tend to be tossed not placed down in the carts. Some strong handlers are capable of some impressive distances from conveyor belt to luggage cart. - b
  7. Still gaming the '17 PM 60 with a lot of time on it but not worn out at all. I have a new 19 I got on sale for a backup but no reason to swap it out yet, it spins fine. I use it a lot out of the sand as well, but I am not Phil who likes to play those nipped chip shots that one hop and stop. I can see groove wear hurting a bit on those shots, but 30y pitches or flops go up and stop. Given I played Ping Eye 2's for so long, no wonder I like this grind For other gaps I have several grinds of Miura wedges I rotate between and they will be in my bag for years and are showing very litt
  8. Mid 6's off mats (assuming that since most posts are off of mats) with that club looks pretty good to my amateur eyes. For a 7i (I have both 33 and 34d ones) I have tested a lot off of fiberbuilt mats with premium range balls and I spin from 6-7K depending on strike, similar speed as you. I presume the TM averages are pros off of grass with pro v1 balls, some of them using maybe 1-2d weaker clubs as well. If you can, hit them off grass and get some data otherwise unless you are just comparing other club combos in the same test conditions you only have a single data poi
  9. OP, if you really are curious if you are mis fit then spend the time and money at a good fitter and get data with the 921 there. Its a new club it will be on the fitting carts I would bet. Handicap really has little basis of what you should play and being sub 10 there is a wide range of clubs folks in that skillset can make work. The forgiveness here is measurable from ball speed and other things but on the course typically is 1 or 2 strikes a round where a bit extra carry may or may not help you. You still can 3 roll it, so work the short game. I can honestly say if I game
  10. Hot take here, may get my WRX card pulled. Workability is over rated. Anyone above scratch, we see the target we want to hit it strait at target. We see more side spin and shot shaping hitting the blades and we convince ourselves this is good to purchase them When do I realistically try to shape shots? When a tree is in the way. I work hard to minimize this initial position and don't worry about shaping. I can hit a cut/draw from trouble and do practice that shot on the range as that shot comes in handy. If I was buying a new set today with
  11. Lot of graphite shaft threads to read up on. I have not swung the catalysts and game 95g shafts (iCWT gen 1 Accras) and have a few TGI 95s. MMT, MCI all sorts of goodness to play with Both are smooth, accras a smidge softer for me personally. The KBS feel very similar to me as their steel line which I expected and gamed prior to going graphite in my P770 (CBs). I have only gamed 110 SF's in my wedges and they are solid shafts, but if I was doing the full set I would want to out the SF FC shafts as recommended by a some expert fitters here as being a much different feeling sha
  12. I use a Mevo+ at range with clean balls, and also have a few times been on course when it was empty with a shag of premium golf balls to compare/contrast with the range ones I used (which were not that far off really for shots 100 and under). I have also compared it with trackman when working with my teaching pro. I need some more LM time as I experiment with the 52/57 setup. For now I just took of 8y or so to guestimate vs the 50/55
  13. When you have time, go through Howards's driver self assessment/tuning. Long thread on this site You don't need much, just some powder, an image on your cell phone, some lead tape. We all have different comfort levels in terms of weight (shaft), swing weight (feels), length (effects lots of stuff). I'd also suggest starting shorter and dialing in feel at say at no more the 44.5", these 45.5" shafts are hard to center for most of us consistently
  14. Yups. Flex also is relative only to the MFG/model. Weight is constant so having a fit where you are comfy with your weight gets you to consistent strike (you can measure your strike with some foot powder, take a gander at your strike etc). Shaft weight/club weight/length will effect your ability to time the strike the most. I can find the center of a club with an A flex but its gotta be my clubhead and at least 65g shaft. Hand me a 50g helium style and I don't have the same feel with less heft in the club.
  15. The adjustment for me Baller is playing consistent shots with more then one club. For years 90y in was my 60 and a feel shot. Some days was on fire but other days I had far too many 30' putts when I left the feel on the range. A year ago I worked on the 3 swing approach with all my wedges and started to get a feel. Used a LM this year to dial in the gaps on these shots, and there is some overlap distance wise in the wedges. I still like the extra wedge don't get me wrong, but even with 3 I have good gaps on the 1/2, 3/4, and full swings. Bending a degree here/there
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