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Stephen8802

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  1. OK, I'm in, one more for the club. After reading this a couple of times I opened up a conversion with the local guy trying to sell a set. He had posted them well over my remaining 2020 budget, but they have been listed for a few months now and he was more than ready to deal. He went right to my price sweet spot and I grabbed them yesterday. More bag chatter and not as pretty as yours, but the faces are in great shape and all the grooves are pristine. I'll give them a polish, some paint fill, blow on some new grips, and they go in the bag for the next round. A couple of
  2. I've been looking for a copy of that book but I can't find one in the on line used book stories. For reasonably rare out of print book, I'm not surprised. I'm sure eventually one will pop up somewhere. If you ever got the urge to make a PDF of the book, I bet there are some folks here who would enjoy reading it.
  3. Funny you say that, on the way home from a round on Monday where my driving was inconsistent, I thinking about picking up some TaylorMades from that era just for the range as persimmon stand ins. Good to hear they work that way for you. I've watched some youtube videos on different options; one guy uses rubbing compound, some guys paint, and I know there are companies that make wrap decals like a car wrap. For that old matt finish, I'd be tempted to set up a sand blasting rig, although I would try it out on some thrift shop clubs first. I've seen enough old TaylorMades at thrift sh
  4. OK, you folks are driving me nuts. I can't be the only person still visiting thrift shops. Seeing what other people find is endlessness interesting to me and I need to see more because being stuck at home is driving me nuts! So start posting to this thread again or I'm going to lose my sanity. I'm being extra cautious and I've greatly reduced my thrift shop visits, but I'm still popping in now and then to see what is there. This starts with a '56 staff wedge I found in a Texas Goodwill before business travel stopped. It looked bad at first, but when I cleaned it up, it was actually
  5. You inspired me, so I picked up this Wilson Goose-Neck at a Goodwill today. I'm looking forward to bringing it to the range and seeing how it plays. Mine looks a little different, I guess the design changed over 40 years.
  6. I'm bringing an old thread back to life. I read this last year and got it in my head I need to pick up a few PowerBilts and see how they play. I blame Bella Woods for costing me money, although not much since it seems to be cheaper to pick up PowerBilts than Macs. So far I have a set of 1/3/4 1960's, a random '56 Citation 4 wood in great shape I picked up in a local Goodwill, and a '66 deep face driver. I'm really digging these so far. The driver came in pretty good shape, just some finish damage on the face due to a hunk of tar stuck to it. No cracks, no deep divots, everything se
  7. Those staffs are beautiful and I would love to play them if I had them. However, I wouldn’t worry about matching the woods if it were me; as long as they are persimmon, I’d be happy. Consistency between clubs for me is less important than each club doing what I want to do. I currently have a ’66 Citation deep-faced driver,’62 MT 2 wood, 693 3 wood, and M75 4 wood in my bag. These days I mix and match for each round because I enjoy hitting the different clubs. When I was playing for score, I had the same mixed set for long periods of time. So I think any persimmon will do the trick, either a ma
  8. I thought about cutting some new fiber, but didn't think I could get it right. Filling it with colored epoxy worked well for me. In these two pictures of the work in process, you can see what I did. The first picture was after I glued in the persimmon patch but before the insert fill. Next to the right dowel, you can see the missing chunk. The second picture shows it after the fill. There is a coating of clear nail polish over the face, but you can see the fill clearly, it is slightly more white and bleeds just a hair. I'll strip the nail polish and do a final clean up on the face
  9. These are '58s, so they are both Velocitized and have the Super Eye O Matic notch. The driver was a mess and needed to be fixed to be playable, so I pulled that insert and getting it out was a bear. It would be a lot easier on a later Velocitized without the notch. I learned a lot, made some mistakes, but eventually got it out in one piece. I read through the Carl Paul and Maltby books and searched the internet, and the best I could come up with was cut it out. It looks like there used to be a tool you could buy, but that is long gone, so I made a tool by cutting a putty knife to t
  10. Do it, I can't tell you how much I've enjoyed refinishing clubs over the last year...it has saved my sanity in the time of Covid. I'm finishing up a RT2W Driver/2 that I bought just because the driver needed so much work. I really don't need it, but I wanted to learn how to do a persimmon patch and repair a '58 SEOM/Velocitized insert, and this club needed both. It won't be my prettiest club, but it was a blast to tear it down and build it back up.
  11. I think there is an immediate reaction that the M85 is one of the classic drivers and the answer is always "I'll take the M85," but that is a really beautiful club you have there, so I don't think there was a wrong answer. Now, that being said, go get the M85 and anything else in the storage room, because my answer is always to have them all. I prefer tight gain in a U shape, but I"m not sure it matters as much as we like to think. I have a couple clubs with straight grain and they play beautifully. I often wonder how much touch I've lost since I was a kid that played every day, bu
  12. I can't find that putter, so I only have guesses. He played is best golf in the 30s, won back to back PGAs as well as other majors, so he was a good player. I can find some Wilson Danny Shute clubs, but not in the catalog. I found a picture of a 1940 Danny Shute wood online that has a Wilson sole plate but no Wilson branding. Wilson also didn't make clubs in '43, '44, 'and '45 according to Kaplan, so I'd guess '42 or earlier. So, without direct evidence, I'm going to guess made by Wilson, perhaps a store line club, perhaps just not in the catalog, sometime just before the war or at the very be
  13. They look like 1961 Very Fine Quality Armour irons...for the discriminating golfers. Those are pretty irons, it's a good thing you took them home. I've always liked the pyramid scoring, it certainly is unique. The AT2 came with a propel 2 shaft and burgundy leather grips. Tell us how they play when you get them out on the course. I don't recognize the putter, but it looks a lot more like the '30s than the '60s to me. What is the shaft in that?
  14. Look in thrift stores. It could be you first try, or it could take a year, but you'll find something if you look in enough, especially if you can change a shaft. I picked up a set of Apex IIs a few weeks ago. The 4, 7, and wedge shafts were replacements, and the 9 iron shaft had a 4 inch extension on it and was still an inch short. So I made a few trips hunting for Apex 4 shafts from various Hogans and fixed the 4, 9, and equalizer. I picked up an extra Apex II 9 iron and wedge while I was at it as back ups. (I had to soft step an 8 iron shaft into the 9 iron, but it's close enoug
  15. I have a modern driver and agree with those comments...a modern club increases swing speed through a longer shaft and lessens the punishment of bad swings through a larger sweet spot. On the downside, however, I find modern clubs encourage poor swing habits and eventually get me into trouble. My modern driver's forgiveness led me to swinging to hard, which eventually caught up with me and got me into trouble. In addition, hitting a modern club is a soulless experience that trades a sense of accomplishment on hitting a ball well for a lower score. Once I stopped keeping score, going ba
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