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  1. Penfold: Penfold Heart golf ball...shexy.
  2. What do you use your gap wedge for? Full shots only? Partial pitches, chips? You can see what I play from my sig, absolutely love the turf interaction of the 565 PW but dislike the turf interaction of the CBX 50, feels like I am hitting shots slightly fat, but sure, it is forgiving, just not satisfying. I also find the CBX too light in the head for my taste for touch shots, have added lead tape to bring it up to D6 making it a little better. If you like your set 585 PW and will use a GW mainly for full shots, my advice is buy the 585 GW (AW).
  3. Teaching professional or touring professional?
  4. The international flex code is the key to understanding their shaft profiles and whether a shaft will play 'soft' or 'hard' to flex. For simplicity, a 4444 code shaft will play softer than a 6666 code shaft but both are designated nominally as stiff. I had a Miyazaki R-45 shaft in a Srixon F45 5 wood that I bought, it had a flex code of 6423 and was nominally classed as stiff but you can see from the 23 how soft it was in the bottom half of the shaft. Kept the head and on-sold the shaft.
  5. This is how the international flex code that Miyazaki uses on its shafts works:
  6. Also remember that larger grips of the same model weigh more so can alter the feel of your club.
  7. jwhowles, using tape I think you will get the result that you are looking for re feel. On my woods and irons (not specialty wedges) I play standard CP2 wrap grips with 6 wraps of tape starting 2in from butt and running 6.25 in in length from that point (I don't want to build up the grip under the pinky and ring fingers of my top hand but want more diameter for my remaining fingers - I do use some graduation of tape build to prevent any ridges and also ensure decent grip adhesion to the tape/shaft). This gives me close to a mid-size grip with reduced taper under my hands, noting the
  8. Now I understand why you replied as you did - I was referring to wedges only as per the sand wedge that I posted images of and my Vokey quote, but maybe I didn't make that clear enough - re-reading my posts I can see that you could think that I was referring to all irons when that wasn't my intention. I'll be more prescriptive in future posts - live and learn.
  9. Are you sure? I found this from Vokey when researching this: A new wedge can spin up to 2,000 RPM more than a wedge played for 125+ rounds. https://www.vokey.com/spin/spin-performance.aspx# The above is what I based my original comment on. Seems like if you are playing regularly you'd maybe do 125 rounds over 2 seasons and then if you are a heavy practicer, a 1,000 rpm drop off a year for at least the first 2 years seems reasonable?
  10. Ok, so here we go...Ram Tour Grind TG-898 Special 54 deg SW with Rifle FCM 6.0 shaft. Bought this new in the late 90's, played it for maybe 5 seasons then for whatever reason it went in my reserve bag and hardly played since. Forged, great feel and the rounded shape appeals to me YMMV. Fortunately I didn't use it much out of the sand, I preferred a 60 deg LW I had at the time. Before this thread I assumed it was too worn in the face to still be any good but now I'm thinking it may still be playable. Will spend some time testing it out, just coming out of Covid lockdown in Melbourne, Australia.
  11. I'm inspired/challenged/deluded by this thread. I'm going to photo my gorgeous 54 deg wedge front and back and put the images up on this thread. I'm not revealing yet what it is. It's so beautiful; what did Trevino say about sleeping with his 1 iron? Seriously, I know that I can GC Quad its spin numbers and/or at the least just observe spin but I'd given up on even thinking it is playable for anything decent. Stay tuned (I am in Australia so it will be some hours....).
  12. And what about face milling adding spin? Don't you lose 1000rpm's per year of heavy use (at least that rate for the first 3years)? Or some such type of degradation? I'm curious about this topic as I have a couple of gorgeous, older forged wedges that are in my 3rd bag because of (supposed) lack of spin rate.
  13. No worries kiwi. Thought I would offer one further opinion re a combo set based on your comment: A mixed bag would also work by transitioning to the ZX7 at say the 8 iron but I'm thinking I'd prefer to play the more forgiving ZX5 model right through to the pitching wedge. I returned to regular golf last year after raising kids and am a single figure cap of a few decades and decent iron player. I was playing irons from year 2000 so old. I am super happy with my 565's (bought them new at a discount after they were superseded by the 585's) but occasionally I feel they can
  14. From my sig you will see I play the 565's, same lofts as the ZX5's + a CBX 50 deg GW so 6 deg between the 44 deg PW and the GW. For your reference, I have a 15 yard distance gap between these two clubs which I find easily manageable. Also note that the ZX5 AW/GW is 50 deg so that indicates that the 44 to 50 deg set-up should work. Be careful with any loft bending because the V sole is a big feature of these Srixon irons and you don't want to stuff up playability. The ZX5's look terrific, of course I am biased as a very happy Srixon (and Cleveland) iron gamer.
  15. That's pretty much me. Am regripping my 565's with lighter weight grips to bring swing weights up a point or 2. Going back a few decades, players usually had clubs with higher swing weights than now. As a boy (I am in my 50's) I had a 2nd hand sand wedge (so I'm guessing was new in the 1960's) that I recently fished out of a cranny in my garage, cleaned it up and stuck a new grip on it to fool around with some chips and pitches despite worn grooves. It feels awesome weight and balance wise and am chipping with it like a champ. Measured the swing weight and it is E8! Lov
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