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  1. Very few amateurs need all 14 despite what you may hear around these parts.
  2. My favorite DTC ball is definitely Vice Pro Plus (which I usually buy used on found golf ball sites for $1 a ball in like-new quality when a deal hits). My favorite new ball that I believe is best value is the new Kirkland 3.2, which does not spin nearly as much as its predecessor.
  3. Just bought a set of 3.2, the cover is slightly harder than the vice pro plus that I am using, and hits slightly firmer, but no appreciable difference in performance. The difference in firmness/clickiness takes all of 5 minutes to get used to.
  4. Not really adding to the debate, but didn't want to start a while new thread for this question. What is the difference between shaft length and total length for driver? For instance, if I want a playing length of 45.5", what length shaft would I be purchasing? Thanks and sorry to hijack thread.
  5. So I have gotten a set of these fakes before. They were "certified" sellers per ebay, but when I opened them, smelled like kerosene. I didn't think much of them, then they were put on. I remember thinking, "these feel better than normal." Played a couple rounds with them, again noting they felt "better" than usual. Then I did some online investigation, emailed Golf Pride, confirmed they were fakes. Removed them, got a refund from ebay. If they weren't fakes, I would 100% buy them again as they felt better to me than the real thing, but alas, can't support fakes.
  6. Quick and random question, sorry didn't know where to ask and this thread seemed marginally on topic. When people sell shafts on the classifieds and they say shaft is "cut to 43" does that mean that the driver is playing at 43"? So it's 2 inches shorter than "standard"? Or do you add the height of the driver head?
  7. I only do full swings. 58 degree from 100, 62 degrees from 80, 66 degrees from 60, 70 degrees from 40, 86 degrees from the fringe.
  8. I have used unbranded grips before. If I never knew it was unbranded, I don't even think I would have thought about it. Not that different at all.
  9. I haven't found the blueprints any less forgiving than the iblades. Both are great, but blueprints feel sooooooo much better.
  10. Do you feel like it's necessary to have 2 different partial wedges hitting the same distances without it being redundant? What would the advantages be other than trajectory differences?
  11. Sorry to revive this thread, but I'm trying to understand why everyone says 4 wedges "better for gapping." I currently have a 3 wedge setup 46-52-58. Really trying to convince myself that I don't need a 4th. My PW carries 132, Gap carries 120, Lob carries 106. Even if I "improve" my gaps from 100-130, my lob wedge will take almost 100% of the shots from 30-100 yards, so where are the gaps that I'm missing out on by not having a 4th wedge? Serious question, because I've almost pulled the trigger on a 4th wedge several times today, and trying to stay rational.
  12. Honestly have done just fine without lessons, just lots of practice in the garage. A membership at PGASS using their launch monitors was also a great purchase (though chasing big numbers is always a risk).
  13. I sold a set of i200's before the great golf explosion early last year (4-PW for a paltry $150 because that's the best I could get), now see them going for much higher. It's not necessarily the amount, just that I "lost out."
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