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  1. you are looking for collared ferrules .355. Just type that into your search engine.
  2. This: It's a great aid for anyone who wants to improve their swing. You want regret it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCQNNVC/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07FCQNNVC&pd_rd_w=dQGbj&pf_rd_p=91afecf5-8b2e-41e2-9f11-dc6992c6eaa1&pd_rd_wg=n4RFm&pf_rd_r=NAEPEGED77T0RYYNTR7F&pd_rd_r=4ded39cf-4f78-4dae-af05-c90d72966e97&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyN0JLV0lGOEJGRk8yJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDA5NjcxSzlXTklFRVU5WVdKJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0NjUzOTk1MzFBQjlZQVAzRVUmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWwmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
  3. Yeah, my mileage does vary. Simple enough start with the bottom first. Easy peasy.
  4. After lining up the logo these will keep the head and shaft from moving. https://www.golfworks.com/golf-mechanix-head-to-shaft-drying-clip/p/gm1035/ "Once the club head and shaft have been assembled with epoxy, position one clip over the shaft and the other clip over the hosel. With the drying clips in place, ensure that shaft graphics are oriented as intended and that the ferrule is flush with the hosel. Minor adjustments of the shaft and head can be made with the drying clips in place. Remove clips once the epoxy has securely set. Keeps logo/spine aligned to target
  5. Haven't spent $$ on new equipment this year....yet!
  6. Here's what I would do but do as you want. 1. check the lies and lofts of two clubs-all if you like to make sure they are correct. 2. Take one iron and get it bent 1 degree flat and 1 weak. ex. 6 iron 3. Take another iron and do the same but at two degrees flat and weak. ex. 7 iron Compare them and see if one suits you better. Easy to do and if you don't like them easily undone.
  7. https://www.golfworks.com/the-golfworks-weights-for-the-titleist-tsi2-driver-and-fairway/p/bb9129/
  8. If you look closely, the stand actually has a place to stand on so your own weight keeps it steady. Not quite as good as mounted but definitely can bend what you need to. On harder steel like old Pings, I've had to have my son stand on it with me to get enough leverage. But that is the odd case out.
  9. No none. You can bolt it to the floor if you want. I have to move it sometimes which is nice but my area didn't allow me to mount it to a bench. You can always mount it later if you want to.
  10. Buy one of these and let us know how it works out. But I'm sure it's not recommended. https://www.golfworks.com/straight-fluted-hand-reamer-370/p/gm1535/
  11. "When golf strictly becomes a hobby, what keeps you motivated to play?" My Wife. Ok, somebody had to say it!
  12. Parallel is a .370 size hosel while taper is a .355 hosel. You can look up your your hosel size here or at the manufactures site. https://www.golfworks.com/oem-shaft-replacement-guide/a/376/
  13. Now everyone will know how old I am by the number of wooden clubs listed! This ain't easy trying to remember but it is fun. Spalding Johnny Palmer (yeah that's a real person) Northwestern First Flight FTD Different First Flight Custom driver built by pro Arnold Palmer with aluminum shaft Concept Powerbilt Citation Palmer Peerless Macgregor 693 Hogan with speedslot Tony Pena with red insert Tony Pena with steel insert Macgregor Muirfield Macgregor metal wood (2) they kept caving in Taylormade Original Ta
  14. I'll answer and try to help. You might just want to try one iron like the 6 or 7 iron and add 1/2" first. Take it to a club repair place and let them add a 1/2" and see how you like it.
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