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Everything posted by Lasorcier

  1. A product like hat saver, applied when you buy the white shirt works very well. I have gotten my white hat to last the entire season and it is still white. I hit it with several applications of it upon purchase.
  2. Okay, let's see: Head: Mountain Hardware hat that is super warm. Neck: Titleist neck gaiter thing which works pretty well. Chest: Under Armour cold base layer. Then a Galvin Green intermediate layer fleece thing that is super warm, Sunice quarter zip pullover, FJ (windproof/waterproof) shell or Sunice shell (only windproof). Legs: Under Armour cold base layer. Then some adidas cold weather pants that are pretty warm. FJ shell (windproof/waterproof). Shoes: full leather, like Tour360. Meshy shoes in cold are no bueno. Accessories. Zippo hand warmers (the smaller ones) which are quite hot and go for hours. Titleist hand warmer thing that straps around your waist.
  3. It actually has a foam ring that allows for use of a tool. The foam ring is like 2-3mm in thickness, which is enough to get a remover tool in there. From there it just takes a lot of grip goop and patience. It will definitely come off without resorting to cutting it off.
  4. I don't have large on my driver yet, but I do have large on about half of my irons. Medium on driver. All are tours, not the light ones. I started out with smalls, then have just incrementally moved up when I change them out (usually 2x a year). Each larger size is more comfortable than the smaller. When I am replacing grips, I will do it in an experimental set. For instance, last time I redid them, I ordered 6 larges and 7 mediums. I have the larges on my 60, moving backwards to my 8. I'm sure I'll try some XL's. But, I think large will ultimately be the right size. They are stupidly comfortable. Lots of folks fret over what it does to swingweight, but I never paid that much attention. I got used to them in a couple of rounds. I can also confirm that I can still draw/hook the ball with the larges, so the large grips causing slice is a myth, IMO. Awesome grips and will never go back, like SEP1006 said.
  5. I am in the same boat. Hybrids are just foreign and have never been able to confidently hit one. Fairway woods are much better, but still have unreliability. For me irons are so much better and I can hit those out of rough (I don't hit fairway woods out of rough unless it is a perfect lie). So, I have a blueprint 2-iron which is just a dynamite club and have an eye2 1-iron for the times where I have no confidence in a 3-wood, which is most of the time unless off of a tee.
  6. I agree on the feel thing. I can do anything that is a 2.0 or smaller. Anything over that is just no feel at all for me.
  7. Not really. Garmin app keeps track of that for me. I just memorize it. No need for a card.
  8. Tennis racket grip wraps certainly make the grip tacky. Tour 2.0 digicamo under there.
  9. That ia a good question. I personally assume southeast Asia somewhere until proven otherwise.
  10. Nitro (orange) Actually, I did the whole year with either left dash or vice pro plus. For me they seem similar. When I can't find dashes I will go with the vice. Prior to this I was TP5x (2019) but dont like the current TP5x iteration.
  11. I actually like and use the weight port (75g in one and 50g in another). I had not had an SS grip before those came along. I was a pingman grip dude for a considerable period before. My hands don't sweat to a meaningful degree; but, I would probably agree that if someone has hands that sweat a lot, then the SS probably isn't the best grip to use. It seems it could be slick with even a little bit of moisture on it. I also like gravity grips, which seem to have more texture. You might like one of those. I use the digicamo tour 2.0.
  12. Do you have a photo by chance? I would have to check on my t's but I don't think so. On my sugar daddy wedge, some of the deeper scratches on the face have little bit, but nowhere else. Not really much of a surprise on the wedge.
  13. Okay so coming back to my earlier post. After 5 rounds the blackout of the huge white sightline definitely had a significant impact. I focus on the ball at setup and don't notice the long sightline at all. This has resulted in closed face at setup being totally eliminated. In rounds this weekend there were no pulls. So I made it permanent and blacked out the entire putter sans the skull. I used Tamiya R/C car paint, which is tougher than regular tamiya paint since R/C cars crash a lot. I then flat coated with same. I then coated with an impact resistant flat coat. It came out very slightly glossier than original, but it is still good for me. If I run into durability issues then I will have it powdercoated over the winter and that will be that. One thing I neglected to mention is that my eyesight is cross dominant at this range. By that I mean that at longer range my dominant eye is what I see. However with my putter head, my nondominant eye is what I see. So when the putter appears slightly open, then it is actually square (ball in center of stance). I mitigate that by shutting my nondominant eye (right eye) when aiming. I then open both and the view changes back to looking slightly open, but actually being square. The dominance change occurs between 3 and 4 feet (below 3 feet, nondominant eye clearly sees everything and above 4 feet dominant eye clearly sees everything). This change has helped with that in that elimination of the long white line has simplified the peripheral vision and I can more easily focus strictly on the ball. I no longer try to line up with the sightline, which produces an actually closed face due to the eye thing. I line up with the face. side observation: putter looks nifty when blacked out
  14. If you don't mind me asking about that photo, how much toe hang and offset does that have?
  15. Iron covers! Sorry couldn't help it. For the putter specifically, I never use oem headcovers. Oem ones are like a big sign that says come steal me.
  16. I am going to agree with, but include putters in that. There is a huge difference between a crap stock putter shaft versus a better one (bgt stability as an example). Putter shaft lives matter.
  17. If you truly like the all black look, the simple thing to do it take it to a local powdercoater. I had one done and it was not quite $50. Powdercoating is thorough. Caveat: it ain't coming off easily.
  18. Thanks. I got the weight kit and put the two 20's in the front ports and kept two 5's in the rear ports. I wanted the weight towards the blade as opposed to the back. Was a little heavy swinging after that, but the SS 75g insert thing helped. I also recently blacked out the white alignment line.
  19. 633g total weight and 390g head weight on mine. PXG blackjack, 36". SS Tour 2.0 with 75g counterweight (included in the total weight figure).
  20. Yes, this is a really good post with a lot of good stuff. I had been aligning my PXG Blackjack in a closed manner on setup and was doing it consistently causing pulls. When I read the part about the long sightlines, which the Blackjack has, I figured out I had been doing that with any long-sightlined putter (Spider X as a second example). I had been compensating for this, since I knew I was doing it, but never knew sightline was a potential culprit. Varying results by day (some days 27 putts, some days 35 putts). Home course averages 31 putts per round. I decided to do an experiment. I took a piece of electrical tape and covered the sightline. That proved to be a little unclean looking to do the experiment, so I used a sharpie. I then took some model paint and put a little (like 1mm diameter) white dot of paint about 2mm from the front of the blade. That pretty much instantly stopped the aim bias closed thing, made the aim bias neutral, which I find to be just amazing. I am speaking to when I initially set the putter on the ground. Did not play home course this weekend. Played one course that is much more difficult (its a korn ferry course with trouble on pretty much every hole) that has lots of tiers and undulations and nasty rough near the greens. 25 putts, only one pulled (just a bad stroke in general), hit a couple of long birdies (one was a 50 footer, other 15 footer) and lag putts were close. The other course today was 26 putts. Same basic diagnosis. No pulled putts. My GIR wasn't good at either frankly (about 35% on both when usually it is 55%), lots of chips or short pitches, so that can factor into the number of putts, but the results of the putts were discernably different. Drastically reduced pulls due to initial misalignment. So, I guess that big long high-contrast sightline had the effect of me setting the putter closed on setup and accordingly pulling putts. So now I have some model paint (Modelmaster acrylic flat black) drying out to hopefully give it a very clean look. Not sure whether I will repeat the little white dot. I probably will. I'll take a pic when done. I think grips make a huge difference too. Pistols I will align more closed than a round grip. That much i know. That is why I either use a round grip or a gravity grip.
  21. Can confirm both sentences on my end of things. So comfortable that it is just stupid. I have mediums on all clubs except 60, 56, 51, which are large. I'll probably switch all to large when I restock.
  22. I'm going to go with G400 and TSi3. The G400 is just remarkable and darn near perfect to me. The same is true for me on the TSi series. That put titleist back on the map as far as I am concerned - I had never thought that they made very good drivers. The 4 is great for me, but could easily see the 3 achieving that status. I do have both because ho is gonna ho.
  23. Ill weigh in on this because I think a lot of golfers have something wrong with their club specs in some manner (length/lie or both). 6'2" with golf shoes on, current clubs are +1", 1* flat. My old clubs were standard/standard. They were not meant to be, they were meant to be +1" and standard. Golftec/Ping goofed up and I never checked (I just trusted both to get it right). But this can illustrate the point. First pic is old iron. Ping i500 7-iron. Golftec / Ping got it wrong. Second picture is PXG 0311T Gen 3. PXG got it right. I analyze my fit by my scratch pattern. The ping is out on the toe and scratch pattern is toe down, indicating a club too short in my opinion. Scratch pattern on the PXG is not on the toe and is vertical, indicating good length (pattern more centered) and good lie (scratches vertical). Hope that helps. Length and lie can make a huge difference. Result is much better striking and consistent distance/dispersion FOR ME.
  24. I know how small of a segment we are. I reward those who make the investment and that is ping and pxg. I would like to try a sik, but don't want a dB or plumber. I'll try emailing them.
  25. Sik isn't any better. Only 3 models and only 2 of 4 neck options. I you're reading, sik, why don't you become a real putter company.
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