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Glenn Salongo

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  1. If we assume that the droop is caused by centripetal force and the offset of CG of the head and the hosel. This offset would result in a torque and not a downward bending force (the shaft is not bending down). The shaft will bend up in the butt section and equally down in the tip section. I would consider the hands as a free hinge in this case to simplify the reasoning, but they probably could impact the load case. This all mean that the droop will only change the dynamic lie angle. The lie angle change only affect left/right aim and only if you swing at different speed from what you are used to. You can compare the amount of droop by integrating the bend profiles of different shafts (area under the curve). This means that the stiffness of all cross sections are equally important, as the torque is constant over the length of the shaft. The droop load case is different from the 3 point bending case. You can't use a 3 point bending measurement to determent the droop. Long story short: droop will only cause the club to be more upright on a partial shot. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
  2. I play the hybrid at a significantly heavier total club weight compared to the neighboring irons and woods. This makes me fade the hybrid when I'm on the course. It still goes left on the driving range if I hit a couple of balls in a row with it.
  3. 5'7" (little over 32 WTF) play standard length irons and progressive flat lie from 2* in wedges to 5* in 5 iron (Titleist 716). I don't know if there is any interest for you, but Hybrids are 4 iron length and max flat. Woods are standard length and max flat.
  4. Yes, I follow MOI ideas of AMT & AWT.
  5. I follow the woods' weight progression on hybrids with modern length shaft and the irons' weight progression on hybrids with traditional/iron length.
  6. Have you ever tried 100g graphite shaft in a hybrid? It might feel heavier than you expect, assuming you are going for standard club length. I would recommend 80-95g depending balance point and length of the shaft. I play my 4h G425 with CK Pro orange stiff 82g (225y carry). My driver SS is slightly over 110mph.
  7. Just build it! Sounds like the perfect thesis for an mechatronics engineer.
  8. Watch out for the loss of spin with strong lofted irons. It can easily get out of hand if your impact conditions aren't stable. Also the sole of many strong lofted irons don't fit sweeper. Did you try different ball, swing weight or shaft (stiffness, kick point, length, weight...)?
  9. Generally speaking, a softer shaft is harder to match with higher swing speed. Only very skilled players will hit 330 yards consistently with a stiff shaft.
  10. Outside the rope should be OB. X flex and stiffer should be banned. Maximum driver shaft length should be limited to 43".
  11. Great table! So I can get about 5 mph higher ball speed with proper fit 6 iron (assuming my mechanics have no negative impact ). I forgot to mention that I measured smash factor with range balls.
  12. My smash factor with 6 iron is 1.26. Is that good or should I get a custom fit and change shaft? I swing my 6 iron 95 mph flat out, but normal approach shot is about 90 mph. I play 716 AP2 at D2 SW with TT AMT Black S300. They are bent flat, but otherwise all standard spec. Please share your smash factor and give me a suggestion.
  13. Like mentioned before, Gankas have great stuff it cured my EE and I gained distance with accuracy. Especially helpful was the YouTube clip when Gankas fixes Rigg's swing. It took me 1h practice in front of the mirror and 2h on the range the day after. I took it to the course and it worked from 1st tee. But be careful, different root cause have different cure...
  14. Maybe a low bounce wedge for tight lies.
  15. Interesting, I'm happy to learn. Is this true for new models also like T100 vs T100S?
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