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betarhoalphadelta

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    20
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    Mission Viejo, CA

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  1. Yeah, I'll worry about things like optimizing my ball choice for trajectory and spin when I can hit the center of the face more consistently. I don't have some insane swing speed where I need a "low spin" ball like a Left Dash or something like that. So "middle of the bell curve" in both distance and spin is fine. I figure that buying a proper urethane cover ball is important, but beyond that I'm not interested in optimizing. Kirkland was way out on the long tail of the bell curve, so I figured I'm giving up too much out there. I did manage to make it through the last round on one ball. So that's nice.
  2. Agreed. A lot of people think they aren't good enough to worry about what ball they play, and to an extent I agree. I'm not really good enough that the difference between a ProV1 and a Chrome Soft and a TP5x are really material to me. However, the very fact that I'm not good enough is why I choose to play one and only one ball consistently. My game is inconsistent enough. When I hit a shot and it does something I don't like, I don't want to wonder if it's my swing or if it's the ball, or if it's a combination of the two. By removing the ball from contention, I know when it does something I don't like that it's 100% my fault. It takes away one variable, and by reducing potential variables I know that my [usually terrible] score is based purely on my own ability and not inconsistency elsewhere. That said, I switched from the Kirkland to the Snell MTB-X based on the results of that other site's 2021 ball test. The Kirkland was highest spin and in the bottom of the distribution for distance basically across all club and swing speed combinations, and the distance loss was not trivial. I like spin, but I don't think I need *that* much spin, and the distance difference at my swing speed could be a full club to club and a half into greens on par 4's given the difference of driver being 8-9 yards and irons of 4-5 yards. The Kirkland was a significant outlier in the test. Seemed like a ball that's more "middle of the road" for distance and spin would be better for me, and the Snell, while >2x the price of the Kirkland, is still significantly cheaper than most of the premium tour balls. Plus it comes in yellow
  3. Kinda two issues killed me: Speed control on lag putts. That's one area that I've been doing well in general to keep from three-putting, but my speed control just wasn't even close. I wasn't leaving myself easy putts. Not making enough of the shorter-to-midrange length putts. This hurts me when I make a decent pitch/chip and have a chance to get out in 1 putt, and obviously hurts me when I make a poor lag putt that I can't convert and it becomes a three-putt. I've been lax about putting practice. I'm going to start getting more time on the putting mat to work on making sure I'm striking the ball well and starting properly on line. Any idea how much the ball affects lag putting? I did recently switch from the Kirkland to the Snell MTB-X. This was only my second round with the Snell. I don't know how much this affects putting, or if it's just because I sucked.
  4. Played Sunday, but I've been too busy to offer a full writeup of the round, and now that I'm three days out, will probably forget shots here or there. The round was at Oso Creek, the par-60, 3670 yard course. I hadn't hit the range since my previous round two weeks prior, due to heat and being busy. So I went into this one pretty well cold. Ended up shooting an 89, so +29. Birdies: 1 Pars: 2 Bogeys: 4 Doubles: 8 Triples+: 3 Fairways: 2/6 GIR: 3 Putts: 41 (!)(!)(!) Lowlights: Putting. I count 41 putts. Five 3-putts and one 4-putt. Granted the one 4-putt doesn't technically count, because I putted from the fringe, over the green onto the fringe again, then putted on to the green and two putted from there. But when you pull putter four times on a hole, you have to card that as a 4-putt in shame. Midlights: Decent ballstriking but still turning everything left. This I attribute to not having any range work between rounds, and not wanting to play "golf swing" on the course. I was making pretty good contact on a lot of shots, but controlling that left curve was difficult because I hadn't had a lot of work on getting the rotation correct. On a couple holes it put me in bad spots, but on several other holes it was the difference between a GIR and a par and a non-GIR that my ability to get up and down (with my horrific putting) wasn't going to recover. Highlight: The 6th hole. 296 yard par 4 and the below is where my drive ended up. I missed driving the green by 18". GPS measured it at 279 yards. And yes, that was the hole that ended in a birdie. If I'd finished that as a par, I don't think it would qualify as a highlight lol...
  5. What driver do you recommend for a high-cap (i.e. inconsistent with face contact) player who happens to have a tendency towards in->out path and draw/hook rather than a fade? 849 Pro or 849D?
  6. When I was 13-14, I caddied at a Scottish links style course in the Chicago suburbs. The rough in the summer would grow ankle high (grass) with knee-high prairie grasses around it too. Mondays were days that caddies could play--the only way I'll ever get on that course lol. Good luck finding your ball in that rough, but if you actually found it, the strategy was simple. Aim directly back at the fairway (perpendicular to the target line), grab your pitching wedge, and hit the ball as hard as you possibly can. If you're lucky, you'll actually hit it far enough to even reach the fairway lol... If you're in deep rough, you either have to have a lot of strength or you need to take your medicine and figure out how to get back in the fairway.
  7. Like @Myherobobhope I think to some extent, ESPECIALLY at my level, wedges are wedges. Would I see any difference between the Sub70, a Vokey, or the Kirkland wedges? At least heads? I doubt it. I don't know enough about my game or about wedge grinds to know squat about what is "right" for me. Obviously I had them built to specific specs--lengthened due to my height (but shorter than my OL irons due to swing weight), the same shafts used in my irons, and the same grips used in my irons. I couldn't do that with Kirkland unless I spent a bunch of money to do it aftermarket. I of course could do that with Vokey. That said, I like them. They feel good through contact, I love the look of the black finish, and swinging them feels great--which it should since they're the same grip and shaft I play in irons. If you can get them with one of the stock non-upcharge shafts, they're one of the best deals in wedges outside of Kirkland. I ended up paying more because my shaft wasn't included in the stock shafts.
  8. Could Deepak explain how I could hit a perfect drive straight down the middle into the fairway last Sunday and then it was nowhere to be found? I'm guessing that the quantum probability cloud describing its position just extended much farther on that drive than typical
  9. I think the better DTC comp would be the Sub70 699 Pro...
  10. Don't get down on yourself after that round. Not only is a 93 pretty good, a 41 on the front is exceptional. I had a really good front 9 on the short/easy course I play of +2, and then went +13 on the back. Oops! But even so, that was a good round that's still counted in my handicap calculation. 52 is a rough back nine, but it's not a "fall apart" back nine for guys like us who can expect to shoot in the mid-high 90s and occasional triple digits on a reasonably tough 18-hole course. Sounds like a nice round to me.
  11. Well, you're doing things right. You're seeing the right guy to help you fix it, you're practicing and regularly using video to keep yourself honest about doing the moves you're supposed to do, and you're sticking through it in good times and bad. But that's why I piped up about the moving away from the ball thing. Trying to self-diagnose faults is more likely to hurt you than help you. I'm no swing instructor, but basic physics says that will make it harder for you to do what Monte wants you to do, not easier. It's too easy to get sucked into internet swing theory and have 15 different things you're trying to accomplish, most of them contradictory, and none of them helping achieve what an actual pro diagnosed and wants you to fix... Right now I'm working on the rotation and ONLY the rotation. I've been noticing some face control issues that are showing up more predominantly as my path gets more neutral (they were somewhat hidden by the amount of curve on some shots). I think that my rolling/opening of the club on takeaway is contributing to that, because it makes squaring the face coming into impact much more inconsistent. Seems like modern swing theory wants us to keep the face more neutral so that the rotation of the swing squares it naturally. But I can't think about my takeaway right now. I am only working on the rotation. When I feel like I've ingrained the rotation, that's when I'll go back to Monte and start asking him about my face control issues--and he'll probably tell me something completely different from my self-diagnosis of the takeaway issue lol
  12. Famous last words lol... I feel like the answer is actually hip rotation, pivot, etc. Get proper rotation, hip depth, and lose the early extension, and you'll have plenty of room to not be tied up. Which is exactly what Monte had me working on too... It's a really simple idea of how to fix it. It's only taken me 6 months to get mostly there...
  13. Full caveat -- I'm still trying to break 90. Please confirm anything I've said with Monte
  14. I'm not sure that's necessarily the takeaway from this drill. Impact position is different from address position. In your backswing, you should have created depth with your right hip, and through transition and the downswing, you should maintain that depth with your left hip as the left hip opens, replacing the right hip's depth. This naturally creates space for your hands. You and I both had issues with a stall/flip, which means that we had hips square at impact rather than creating space by pulling the left hip backwards, and a little bit of early extension, which means in order to make room for the hands we have to "stand up" through impact to keep from digging the club in 12" behind the ball. Now, think about what happens if you get less knee flex, move your feet away from the ball, and bend more at the waist. You center of gravity has now moved closer to the ball and you're going to make it MUCH harder to actually move the right hip back on the backswing and maintain that depth replacing it with the left hip on the downswing. For example, look at this: YouTube has a feature to allow you to move frame by frame through a video. I want you to do two things. Start (and then IMMEDIATELY pause) the video. On YouTube, hitting the period key will advance the video by a frame. Put your mouse pointer, or something else, right behind your backside. Keep hitting period and watching how your hips move relative to the mouse pointer. You'll see that on the backswing, you maintain depth rather than gain it--the right hip at the top should be BEHIND the pointer. Then on the downswing, your hips start moving towards the ball and at impact you'll see you're several inches closer to the ball than you were at address. That is why you're getting tied up at impact. Do the above and hold something very thin and straight (like a nail) up to the screen and hold it exactly at your spine angle. Advance through frame by frame again, and you'll see that at impact, your spine angle is much more vertical at impact than it was at address. That's early extension. You're not getting tied up at impact due to your address position. If you try to stand farther from the ball and bend more at the waist, you're likely to make it even harder to have proper hip depth and avoid the early extension.
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