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  1. If they are anything like the x85 series, what you get is some extra launch and ball speed, which helps with distance gapping for all but the fastest players as long irons tend to bunch up without tons of speed. I was finding that the 785 4 was barely going farther than the 5 iron for me. The 585 goes SO much higher and gaps nicely for me. Heel to toe forgiveness isn’t much different between the two, but hit one a bit thin and you’ll do a little dance with the 585 as it’ll be a decent shot where the 785 will be a line drive that comes up 30 yards short. FWIW, it is harder to flight the ball down with, so I have been using my 5 iron when I need to hit it far and low. The sole width hasn’t been an issue for me. Any lie that would present a problem for the thicker sole is a lie that I have no business hitting a 4 iron out of.
  2. Think about it. The head geometry doesn’t change. The only way to turn 15* into 16.5* is to tilt the head up 1.5* which raises the leading edge off the ground. This is accomplished by closing the face. By angling the shaft so that the head sits closed when soled, you are forced to either play with 15* of loft and a closed face, or to rotate the face open until it is square which adds 1.5* of loft and tilts the head upward, thus bringing the leading edge up as well. Try this experiment. Take a fairway wood and rotate it 45* open. You will see the loft point way up and the leading edge come way off of the ground. This is an extreme example to make it obvious to the eye. As I said, 1.5* of bounce is small, but it plays larger because of the depth of the head. Many people won’t notice, but if you are shallow or even hit slightly up on a FW wood, adding loft could cause issues with contact.
  3. The same as with an iron. The angle at which the trail edge sits below the leading edge when soled. Although FW woods are designed to sit flush to the ground, when you add loft to any club you add bounce. It is simple geometry. So when you loft up a fairway wood a couple of degrees you are also adding a couple of degrees of bounce. A couple of degrees of bounce on an iron are not a big deal, but on a FW they are more impactful because the head is so deep. TLDR: adding loft to a FW head tilts the head upward which raises the leading edge off of the ground slightly when the face is square. This can make it tougher to make clean contact, especially if you are shallow.
  4. Another concern is that lofting up a 3W adds “bounce” and a small amount of bounce will be felt because of the depth of the head so it will be harder to make clean contact off of the turf. I’ve always found that I hit FWs lofted down better than those lofted up off of the turf. I’ve thought it was because of this, although it could be that I prefer an open face as well…
  5. As said above, all drivers should have a COR near 1.5. If you want to split hairs drivers with a heavier head (Ping) will produce higher ball speeds than those with a lighter head (Callaway) assuming you can swing them at the same speed. Usually you will swing the heavier driver slower so this doesn’t really increase distance. Additionally, drivers with a more forward CG (moveable weights or LS versions) will produce faster ball speeds than those with a more rearward CG (moveable weights or Max versions). The key here is that you sacrifice forgiveness with the more forward CG so your misses will be more offline and slower. All that said, while you may find a driver that is faster for YOU, none of the current models are inherently better or faster than the others.
  6. Interesting. I get ~117mph ball speed from my 7I at 19* launch and ~5800rmp spin, but I get 155-160mph ball speed off of my driver with 14* launch and ~2400rpm spin. Granted, I play my 7i @ 34* and it is a solid forging so no face flex, but something seems off if you’re getting a similar ball speed to me off of your 7i and 15-20mph less ball speed off of your driver. Are you not hitting your driver in the center? Maybe it’s time to get fit for a driver?
  7. Just got on a Trackman yesterday. Last time I was measured I was swinging 104-105. Looks like I've picked up a little bit of speed. Driver SS: 108 Current HCP: 0.8 Ball: ProV1x I love a firm ball when putting and I enjoy the extra launch and spin on the ProV1x. I'm not the highest launch or spin guy around, so the extra stopping power is appreciated.
  8. All of the Bettinardi single bends that I have seen have offset, I’m not sure what model you’re referring to. The Spider single bends have a full shaft of offset. The bend and the angle that the shaft enters the head creates the offset. The Edel putters mentioned above were the first zero offset heel shafted putters I’ve ever heard of. Look at the difference in how the shaft is forward in the Bettinardi and in line with the leading edge on the Edel.
  9. Why are all (or almost all. there may be some that I'm unaware of) zero-offest putters center or near center shafted? I know Ian of TXG has said some very critical things about center shafted putters due to the amount of twisting that happens on an off center strike. Supposedly, putters are more stable on off center strikes when the connection point is near the heel vs near the center. Wouldn't it be possible to have a shaft similar to a single or double bend, but without the offset? This would allow the putters to maintain the balance and zero offset of being center or near center shafted, but have the shaft connect to the putter head near the heel, which adds stability on off center strikes. This seems like a best of both worlds solution. Maybe @SeeMore Putters can chime in on this?
  10. Thanks. I have been looking for a Golo 5s and haven't found many in this good condition for under $300. I have seen plenty of Golo 5, but not the 5s center shafted model. They appear to be more rare.
  11. I'm considering purchasing this putter from an individual seller. Seller is asking 275 shipped. I have only bought clubs from reputable sellers, not individuals, so I wanted to get your opinions before pulling the trigger.
  12. After using the GolfMetrics app for a while, I have confirmed what I already knew. My putting is the worst part of my game and is what is holding me back from achieving my goal of becoming a scratch golfer. The interesting bit of information that I was able to learn is that my putting is fine in the 0-6ft range and the 22ft+ range. It is 7-21ft that I am losing all of my strokes. Since I am making the short ones, my assumption is that I’m starting the ball where I want. Since I’m fine on lag putts, my assumption is that I’m controlling my speed well. Armed with this knowledge, I decided that the issue is most likely green reading. To test my theory, I ordered the PuttView book for my home course. Since receiving the book, my average score has dropped by ~2 strokes and my index has been going down. Looking at the stats, I can see that the entirety of the change is coming from putts 7-21ft. For me, the book has been a true game changer. I will say that I don’t usually use the book on short putts because the level of detail isn’t fine enough for me to trust it and I already have trust in my ability to use my own senses to read short ones. As a caveat, I am a data scientist and I love data visualization and find the heat map presents the information in a way that is perfect for my brain to process quickly and accurately. I’ve shown the book to some playing partners and they find the information confusing and distracting. Additionally, I have found that a side effect of using GolfMetrics is that I have been pacing off my putts, which has over time helped me to improve my confidence in my speed when combined with reading the slope from the book. At first I was pacing only to get the data for entry and would do it either before or after the putt depending on what was most convenient. Now I exclusively pace before the putt because I’m getting a better feel for pace based on the numbers vs eyeballing it. Finally, I use TheGrint which tracks the pace of my rounds. I have been at a steady 3:30 walking as a foursome, so pace has not slowed at all. Attached are my SG putting charts before and after getting the book. Both of the charts are filtered so that only rounds at my home course are included so the comparison is apples to apples.
  13. UTx were very durable for me. I easily got 100+ rounds out of them. Z-Cords have been on all year and I have 66 rounds on them so they’re still going strong. I’m not a range rat though so that saves some wear.
  14. I just switched from UTx to Z-Cord. They’re both great grips and I would happily play either in any conditions. My hands sweat a ton so moisture management is my primary concern when choosing a grip. Z-Cord is firmer and has much more aggressive cord which makes them rougher on the hands and glove. You’ll get better feedback from Z-Cord and you will feel it when you miss a shot. The UTx are tacky, which is rare for a cord grip. I’d say for me, the Z-Cord get a slight nod in wet weather or sweaty performance (UTx isn’t bad) but the UTx are more comfortable and I enjoy them more on a dry day that isn’t 90+ degrees. Also, if you play in cold weather, you better hit it pure with the Z-Cord or it’s gonna hurt…
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