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Everything posted by Billfitz

  1. It's probably better than the chart indicates. Unless you play a particularly lush course I'd expect the 6 and 7 to have more roll out than the chart shows, making their gapping closer to that of the short clubs.
  2. Gyroscopic effect is imparted on a bullet by rifling, but since the bullet rotation isn't on the same vector as its direction it doesn't work the same way. A bicycle, where the wheels rotate in the direction of travel, is a good analogy to a golf ball. Gyroscopic effect keeps the bike from falling over and on a straight course unless other forces come into play. To make the bike turn takes a combination of turning the handlebars and leaning into the turn. The leaning is similar to adding side spin on the ball. The slower the rotation of the wheels the less leaning it takes to turn, the faster the rotation of the wheels the more leaning it takes to turn.
  3. +1. The only thing a 1/8" deviation will affect is one's OCD.
  4. Two ways to counter the effects of getting old are to increase wrist c0ck and hip rotation. I didn't use much of either forty years and fifty pounds ago, and I had no trouble driving it 275 yards with persimmon heads, steel shafts and balata balls. As I got older I had to improve my technique to compensate for the decrease in upper body strength and speed. On the equipment side I've moved from S to R to A shafts over the years, lightening them as well. Every switch gave me back a little bit of what I'd lost. That said, I'm still down to 220-225 driving distance. That's not bad for 72 years old, but to maintain a 12 HCP means having a good hybrid and iron game.
  5. Another way to look at it is the higher the loft the more the backspin, which dominates the overall result via gyroscopic effect.
  6. Callaway has come a long way with their wedges, they're designed by Roger Cleveland.
  7. I can see that. At my club we usually have an end of season 3 club plus putter competition where I use 3H, 7I and SW. Instead of using driver and short iron I hit the 3H twice and so forth, and I usually score within 4 strokes of my average. But in regular play I want those four strokes.
  8. Changing loft via the shaft adapter also changes the face angle, which factors into the result.
  9. Going down the rabbit hole we are. Grip size is like shaft length, shaft weight, swing weight, static weight, shaft stiffness and ball choice. There's no formula that applies to everyone, so you find what works for you and don't worry about why it does.
  10. Walking shoes when on my backyard mat. I wear golf shoes for grip on damp grass and uphill/downhill/crosshill lies. My mat doesn't have those.
  11. I do exactly that when I want to be sure of going right, or not going left. With driver I put the ball just off my left heel, which in my case keeps the face just a bit open. If I want to take right out of the equation I move the ball up two inches, to be sure the face is either square or a bit closed. The same technique works with all my clubs, with each being a little further back as I go down the set, until I get down to the wedges. They've got too much loft to respond much to the face angle at impact unless I really open or close it.
  12. You go from 7I to GW? What about 8I, 9I and PW?
  13. I wouldn't use anything else at this point. When others have offerings the size of JumboMax Small I'll consider them.
  14. It also takes a lot of lie angle adjustment to have a significant effect on the ball flight path. Your swing is the main factor in whether the ball goes left or right. Changing lie angle is just a very fine tuning of the result, and since your swing is what counts the most you need to see how the clubs react with your swing before deciding if lie adjustment is warranted, and if so in which direction.
  15. I didn't think the question was disrespectful. It would be better to ignore the classification 'senior flex', and for that matter all of the currently used classifications. The primary consideration for flex should be swing speed, not the age or sex of the golfer, so that's how they should be rated.
  16. Perhaps not, but for me it's the lighter grip pressure that's most beneficial. Less pressure allows a more relaxed feeling in my wrists, which makes it easier to get a full wrist c0ck for maximum swing speed. I can't get my left arm even close to vertical anymore, but the lower grip pressure means I can still get the shaft to parallel. Less tension also reduces my tendency to bend my left arm while taking too long a backswing, which in my case is part of what can turn a draw into a yank.
  17. True, but you don't go from 600g to compound. 600g is also too aggressive, especially if you're not skilled in finishing. Wet sand with 1000g paper, 2000g paper and finally 3000g 3M Trizact. Spray the water on the paper, not the club, with a few drops of detergent in the spray bottle as a lubricant to prevent the paper from clogging. Do it by hand only. Then rub it out starting with heavy cut compound, then light cut compound, finish it off with polish. If I had that much area to do on my car I'd complete it in less than an hour. The main PITA is that you'll have to buy at least twenty times the amount of compound and polish that you need, but then you'll have it on hand if you do need to use it on your car. After using the 1000g to completely dull the finish then you can judge if it needs any filling. You can do that with clear nail polish, sanding again after it sets.
  18. The problem trying to refinish that is the curves and nooks and crannies. You can easily sand and polish the larger flat surfaces, but not the rest. Those would require a Dremel tool using polishing heads and the skills of a jeweler.
  19. Just as there's no such thing as a correct shaft length based on anything other than individual in use results there's no such thing as correct swing weight. If it works best it is best, no matter what charts and formulas say.
  20. JumboMax comes in various sizes. I went to JM from Winn 1/8" OS. The JumboMax small is 1/8" larger than them.
  21. You don't have to be an AARP member to have a swing speed less than 100 MPH.
  22. Going to JumboMax has reduced my tendency to overcook a draw, but what I like most about them is being able to use less grip pressure, so even if they didn't cut down on the pulled shots I'd still use them. As for using tape to duplicate JumboMax, that much tape would make the shafts too big to fit grips over them.
  23. True, but you can't choke up on a shaft to see how it would work if it was longer.
  24. That. If you choke down and like it better it's easy to make it shorter. If you buy it short you've no way of knowing if it would have worked better if longer. I used to, usually hitting nearly an inch toward the toe. I put a 1/4" white dot on the crown of the head an inch towards the heel from center as my point to line up to the ball. End of problem. It wasn't my shaft length causing the toe hits. I did the same thing with my woods when I had them and my hybrids when I got them, so it was my swing at fault. The same alignment dots fixed it with the other clubs. It's easier to paint dots on the clubs than to change my swing. No problem with my irons, but my iron swing is slightly different.
  25. I use A flex on all my clubs. I'm 72, why wouldn't I? I started using light weight R shafts when I was a spry 40, they worked better for me than heavier stiffer shafts even though I still had a 110 swing speed. I started using A flex ten years ago. IME if you don't need a S or X flex you shouldn't use them, and if you don't have a high swing speed you don't need S or X. A while back I let a guy half my age try my driver, because he wanted to see how my JumboMax grip felt. He's a long hitter, 275 on average, but he tends to over fade, verging on slice. He has a Callaway with an S shaft. The first swing with my driver and A flex shaft he hit a towering draw that went 300.
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