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  1. I have this very question myself lately. The Bushnell I have had for about many years works fine. And it has slope on it. Advantages of upgrade appear to be a quicker lock time, better clarity, more maximum distance reading, better low light, but I am doubting it's worth it since mine works fine.
  2. Has anyone chosen a 3-wood length hybrid instead of a 3wood? I have an old Adams hybrid in 14 degree, Idea Pro Gold Tour Prototype, and that is about 3wood loft. I can certainly fade it and hope I can figure out how to draw it but if I can only hit it straight or fade, hmmm... that's worked for some good players, so, I could live with that! I will need to hit it a lot and see if it beats 3wood but I am thinking it just might. Good news about the 3wood is that my normal shot with it (an old Cobra) is a draw. But if the hybrid is more consistent, that's good! I do like that the hybrid has a high flight. Another benefit if I could just not carry a 3wood is that it frees up a spot to put another wedge in the bag. What have you found?
  3. Which irons have you replaced with hybrids? Do you feel that you can aim a hybrid as good as an iron? Do you think you can shape a shot as well as with a hybrid? Why do you prefer a hybrid? Hit it higher, easier out of rough, what are the benefits to you?
  4. And now Rickie Fowler has read this thread because he is speaking at the Zozo Championship in Japan, talking about Japanese culture was a big part of his life as his grandpa is Japanese. lol!
  5. That's what I mean... that the list you provided is unbelievable, and to come back and win the friggin Masters after all that is unreal. I, also, fear for his general mobility as he ages but he might surprise us.
  6. To say Asians dominate the LPGA is an understatement. It's pretty unreal, especially Koreans. I saw something recently, it was, like, 10 out of 15 top players were Asian, and almost all of them Korean. I wonder what factors are involved such that this not happening on the PGA tour? Just curious.
  7. So, do club fitters, literally, ask what descent angle you seek? Can you tell a fitter, "I don't want maximum carry, I also want some roll" and he'll know how to achieve that? It has seemed to me that modern driver total distance goals are based on maximum carry with very little concern over roll. I have also said on this forum that I, personally, would favor a little lower trajectory than maximum carry, because seems to me the golf courses I play on must have firmer fairways, because we get some roll, and in the summer, it can be a lot of roll. When I watch tv golf, usually, they get almost no roll. Of course, they don't play on burnt out fairways. So, do they just really care about maximum carry?
  8. I assume most/all of the chatter about spin on drives is mostly concerned with backspin, not sidespin. What is concern for reducing spin from modern drivers? Does it cut through the air better? Is 'optimum distance' from these modern drivers based on maximum carry?
  9. The list above by ShowMe illustrates just how amazing TW is. Hard to believe he won The Masters in 2019.
  10. I really have no knowledge about your illness, not much help there. I do know that gut health is a really big deal with a lot of very smart, cutting-edge doctors these days, so, you might be eating the wrong foods. Such as too much carbs, sugars. Perhaps overuse of antibiotics, too. Another thing I note is your extreme frustration. It seems rather over the top for good play. The mental aspect of golf is a biggie. I used to beat opponents because I kept my cool and it's my nature to get pissed like anyone. "Golf Is Not A Game of Perfect" by Bob Rotella was a popular book back when I played my best and it was good. I suggest trying to master the mental side, as well as your general health and your swing. I do understand frustration. I am just now going to try golf again after eight years off. Had a shoulder injury that derailed my game and I couldn't play like I used to and I dang sure tried. Anyway, trying again and it will be a challenge at almost age 68. Good luck!
  11. Maybe I didn't say it right. I am talking about supposed distance gained by GI irons. Isn't a lot of that gained by stronger lofts? So, it's kind of like fake distance. I mean, take the following carry distances... LW - 75 SW - 95 PW - 110 9 - 122 8 - 133 7 - 145 6 - 157 5 - 169 4 - 181 3 - 193 2h - 205 3w - 220 D - 235 That is a reasonable carry distance list for me. With the casting fault swing, lol. Ok, so, if I were to buy GI irons, which afford longer carry distances, how does such extra distance in the iron set really help? Or is it just a boost to the ego to hit an iron longer and not having to answer the question, "What iron did you hit?"
  12. Wow, I am glad you mentioned that the 5.5 is 'stiff' because I certainly did not buy them long ago thinking it was 'regular' flex. But when I read online, it calls them 'regular' flex, so, that's odd. The p790, I have def looked at those, and will consider. I just kind of settled on p770 because it is a smaller head. But I don't know if p790 is 'too big,' I need to try them. Let me ask... how would adding distance help? I mean, if every club in my bag except putter were longer, sure, that's a good thing. But if I were to buy irons that were longer, how does that help? The number on the club doesn't matter, what matters is covering all distances with no gaps, distance control and dispersion. Help me on this topic. Now, I will admit that one thing longer irons would help on is people asking me all the time 'what iron did you hit' and then I have to say, 'I hit 7 iron but don't go by me because I hit irons shorter than most.' That is how I used to have to say it and it happened a LOT. For one, I used blades, not long GI clubs, and also, I do not swing all out with irons. When I was playing scratch and better, a LOT of higher handicappers hit irons farther than me and they were all gaming GI irons, usually, Callaway. (FWIW, even though I played some good golf, I was guilty of casting, which cost me distance, and I never did solve that, gonna try again, and hopefully pick up yardage versus the casting fault.)
  13. Many of you know irons. I have TaylorMade RAC irons with Rifle 5.5 shafts, vintage being around 2006. So, 15 years old. (I also have a 2nd set with Rifle 6.0 shafts but I never gamed them, just the Rifle 5.5's. The latter being 'regular' and the 6.0 being 'stiff' is my understanding. I am surprised I didn't find the 6.0 to my liking, as I gamed stiff shafts my whole life before these irons but I just preferred the 5.5. However, I do not 'swing hard' at my irons; driver, I do.) The RAC irons are Muscle back design. I have read up on lots of irons and am wondering if some type of game improvement design would help but I am decently attracted to the new TM p770 irons. Can anyone shed light on how the p770 irons would behave compared to the RAC irons? FWIW, I'll be 68 in less than a month, haven't played in eight years. Used to play off scratch and better. Age and being out of shape have cost me distance, I am sure. Even with lots of practice, I have no idea if I can dial in my swing like times before but I will certainly try. Will also find an instructor. And, hopefully, find a fitter that can allow me to find the right shaft for whatever irons I choose. TIA.
  14. Some questions about modern thoughts on driver. - Is a modern driver built such that you do not need to 'swing up' to achieve optimum launch angle, assuming you have a proper fit? About what year model, if so? - Any need to tee the ball higher than normal? - Any need to position the ball farther forward in the stance than used to be taught? - Is the sweet spot in the very middle of the driver face or where or does it vary club to club? How can you determine it if it isn't marked? - Any tips for hitting the sweet spot on your swings? - If you achieve optimum launch angle to achieve maximum carry, does that fly out the window if the fairway is firm, such that significant rollout would occur? (On firm fairways, lower launch angle will provide a longer drive?)
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