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ProjectX

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  1. FWIW I had an entire bag of Srixon at one point this season. Played in groups where I was out driving everyone by 50-70 yards and beating them by 10+ strokes on the round. I was never once asked about any of my Srixon clubs or my Srixon ball. Bottom line, most people don't care and us WRXers are few and far between.
  2. Couldn't agree more. I just went from a C-Taper 130 X to an MMT 105 TX and they feel every bit as stout. X7 to 125 TX should be no problem at all.
  3. Generally more loft won't work. The issue being the -AoA generates more spin and more loft also generates more spin. While a high loft and -AoA will be very accurate, you will lose a ton of distance. More than the accuracy is worth.
  4. The link says they have maximum forgiveness on Japanese courses. Sounds like they must not be that great in America...
  5. Yeah, to be honest the only thing that holds me back from going even faster sometimes is waiting for the ball to stop rolling or the shot to finish so the next shot can load. For instance when I miss the green and know I missed it I usually have my wedge in hand waiting to hit the next shot before the ball even lands. If there was a way to fast forward to the end of the shot I could probably play under 40 minutes every round.
  6. Also, to answer your second question. My general practice routine is to warm up on the range for 15 min and then play a round of golf. I have my quad set up to auto putt which gives me a score based on the average amounts of putts it takes from that distance. 18 holes takes me 40-45 min. This number will hold true of 40-45 min x number of golfers. Both my wife and neighbor occasionally play a round of golf on the sim with me and takes 90 min for two people. Again well worth it. No travel time and we can play year round.
  7. Holy poop I'm not sure you want to read the novel I could write about how much my GCQuad had changed my game in the last 6 months. Driver: I've known I was a high spin player for 10+ years. So like every WRXer I sought out the lowest spin driver and would open the face to try to knock off even more spin. Then I get slapped in the face with data the second I get my GCQuad. While my iron swing path is very neutral I find out my driver swing path is a few degrees out to in and the excess spin is a result of me not squaring up the face at impact. So instead of playing with a 1.5*-2* open face I now have the face a degree closed. Because I'm squaring the driver up now my spin dropped a whopping 700 rpm and my fairways hit has jumped from 34% to 53%. Ball: I had been playing the Bridgestone B330S and now Tour B XS for years. Then I saw my wedge spin numbers were up over 12,000 rpm on full shots which was impossible to control. So I switched to a Z-Star XV and brought that number to 10,800 which was much easier to control. The spin drop through the rest of the bag was a welcome addition as well. Gapping: I set my lofts based on how far I thought I hit each club. Some were spot on other places not as much. Particularly my wedges were all much shorter than expected and I always struggled with what to do between 4 iron and Driver. PW and AW were 6 yards short, bent them 2* stronger. SW and LW were 3 yards short, bent them 1* stronger. With the drop in spin and straighter ball flight on my driver I all of the sudden had a massive gap from 5 wood to driver. This caused me to switch from a 5 Wood driving iron combo to a 3 wood 5 wood combo and I adjusted my irons again a degree or two to get the gaps right. From 3 wood to LW now cover 260-95 yards for me vs the 250-95 I had previously. The minor adjustments in loft I had to make throughout the bag were totally worth it to gain 10 yards up top and have better gapping through my bag in the process. Practice: I used to be able to get to the range once a week and play once a week if I was lucky. Now I'm hitting balls every other day and my ball striking has never been better. My distance control with my wedges has been a revelation. The one downside to this was my body wasn't liking hitting balls off the mat this often. Started to get sore right where my neck meets the shoulders. So I decided to make the switch to graphite iron shafts. C-Taper to MMT switch: Switching shafts I was able to verify instantly any changes that had occurred. With my adjusted lofts and graphite shafts my spin dropped about 400 rpm. A simple ball switch from Z Star XV to ProV1x got me right back in the windows I wanted. I could go on and on but you can see how much this has changed the game for me in 6 months. My long game picked up 10 yards, my short game is much improved which has dropped my putts per round. My scores used to be mid to low 80's and now I shoot mid 70's. I've never been more confident that I have the right clubs in the bag. I might not even club ho anymore!!! Might... Bottom line, data is king and the more you have the better off you will be.
  8. Only one session in thus far and very happy with the MMT switch. They are exactly what I wanted. My flight is just about identical to the flight I had with my C-Tapers and spin is almost identical as well. From a feel standpoint they feel just as stable as any X-Flex steel shaft I have played during the swing, they just feel softer at impact. There is no noticable kick to the shaft that I can speak of. The only big difference is that they feel a lot lighter which is exactly what I was looking for. I don't feel like I'm working nearly as hard to swing them, but I am consistently faster with them. I was swinging 6 iron with C-Taper at 92-93 mph, with MMT 105 I'm at 94 mph consistently with what feels like less effort. The reduced weight will take some getting used to and I probably made some bad swings because of it but I can get rid of that feeling in a few rounds. My concern of swinging through these shafts is completely gone. I have a fairly short swing with a quick transition(Rahm, Finau ish) and these shafts handled whatever I threw at them. The only thing I would say for anyone else looking at these shafts is if you want reduced weight go with the 105, if you don't want the reduced weight go with the 125 and you'll be quite happy. While the iron shafts feel great the Scoring Wedge shafts are a revelation. The irons shafts are a lateral move for me but the wedge shafts are a massive improvement. My distance control and ability to make different shots has improved immensely. Looking forward to getting them out on the course this weekend.
  9. Ok, got everything shafted up today and have some static items to report. First off +1" is the absolute max for these shafts, at least in ZX7 heads. Everything was installed straight in and nothing is butt trimmed at all. They are all exactly at or a couple are about 1/8" short of my typical specs. Except the pitching wedge. Because I typically play that an extra 1/4" longer it is 1/4" shorter than what I had in my C-Tapers. I wanted 36.75", the best I could do was 36.5" which is even with my gap wedge. This is standard to Srixon's spec but not what I normally play. I wholeheartedly blame this on @mogc60. He said I would have enough space to get the length I wanted and since I am a millenial and cannot be held responsible for any of my actions, especially from a financial standpooint, this is 100% his fault. @mogc60 expect to see my invoice soon. Now that I have that off my chest let's talk swing weight. My swing weights with my C-Tapers were very linear. With the MMTs they are a bit all over the map. I have seen drops in swing weight ranging from 0.1 - 2.8 swing weight points. I was expecting 1 - 1.5 points going from a 130 gram to 113 gram shaft. Generally speaking the long irons are closer in swing weight to the C-Tapers and the short irons and wedges are much lighter in swing weight than the C-Tapers. I was playing S+ 125 grams in my S & L wedges. Weights as follows: Iron C-Taper SW MMT SW Difference Note 4 D7.1 D6.5 0.6 5 D7.5 D7.4 0.1 6 D7.3 D6.2 1.1 7 D7.5 D6.7 0.8 8 D8.1 D6.3 1.8 9 D8.6 D5.8 2.8 P D7.8 D6.1 1.7 1/4" shorter A D9.2 D8.2 1.0 S E0.2 D7.6 2.6 C-Taper S+ L D9.4 D6.7 2.7 C-Taper S+ I'll see how things go for a couple weeks but I may drill a couple grams out of the 5 iron and A wedge to bring them closer in line with everything else. Otherwise I'm fairly happy with where things ended up weight wise. I haven't hit them yet but from swinging at air they are noticably lighter than the C-Tapers but feel every bit as stable. Much more stable than the Steelfiber i110cw X's that I tried in some wedges previously. I'll get them on the GCQuad tomorrow morning and see where things stand numbers wise and report back. Edit: I used 105 TX Scoring Wedge shafts in the S & L btw.
  10. TXG did a fantastic video on this subject where they pitted 5w vs Hybrid vs Driving Iron at the same loft. The conclusion was they all went the exact same distance but got there very differently. 5 wood launched the highest and carried the furthest, driving iron launched the lowest and had the most run out. Hybrid sat right in the middle. So the answer is choose based on the ball flight you want. I played a driving iron in this slot for years but decided to go 5 wood for the height because that's what my game needed. Couldn't be happier for what it did for my game, but I think the answer to your question is you know what your game needs and you should choose accordingly. Video:
  11. Mizuno is generally better for a shallow swing, Srixon better for a steeper swing.
  12. My first child was born in February of 2020. I didn't play a round from November of 2019 through March of 2021. During that span my entire bag turned over...twice.
  13. I wonder if they'll be able to get him into the new Wilson Staff putters. Wilson quietly putting together a hell of a lineup.
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