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CaptainFade

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  1. It was the Rife 2-Bar Hybrid for me. It came with a video and a lie bending tool. That was the first putter I owned that actually felt right and looked right when I took my stance. I still have that putter, and I will never let it go, although I finally replaced it with an EvnRoll.
  2. I always use the current year for my personalization. That way I can keep track of when I bought them.
  3. Same dilemma here, but I've decided to go with the Pro V1 for this year's deal. I've been a V1x player for several years, and I love the ball, but I've always hated the high ball flight, even to the point of trying to fix it with shafts. I received a box of the 2015 Pro V1 for Christmas, and I've played 2 rounds. The first was on a chilly day in January. I immediately loved the lower ball flight, but I felt I was giving up a lot of distance. Fast forward to February when we had a few nice warm days. I played the front 9 with my V1x, but switched to the V1 for the back. I saw no loss of di
  4. I can confirm the ER5 will be available in left. Put my name on the list today!
  5. Wow! This video could have been about me. I've spent many hours taking lessons to correct my hook, and my instructor has covered those counter-intuitive items. After watching this video, it all makes sense. Thanks! Edit to add: Yes my user name is ironic. That was the problem I thought I had when I joined GolfWRX years ago.
  6. Try plumber's tape from any hardware store. You can easily wrap the threads to build up to the thickness required to keep the tag in. I have not actually tried this on a tag yet, but I've used plumber's tape in similar scenarios, and it works well. I think it should do a great job of keeping the tag secure.
  7. I think "luddite" could apply here. :) But for the record, I would hate to see that rule change because it's the only excuse I have for chunking my approach after a drive down the middle.
  8. I draw my own line, but I don't use so much on the green, mainly for a lot of the reasons already stated. I just point it in the general direction of the hole, and when I'm over the ball, I know where I need to hit in reference to the line. Where I really use the line is on the tee box. I'm a sucker for tee markers that don't point down the fairway. I started using the line last year, and it has helped my fairway accuracy significantly.
  9. I was fit for the stock Silver 60S in my 915D2. Compared to my old driver and shaft, swinging the driver is a new experience! I would love to put the 125msi version in for comparison. Silver 60 Stiff for me. Thanks.
  10. [quote name='TMelectric' timestamp='1409269191' post='10027597'] [quote name='timbo08' timestamp='1409260051' post='10026961'] I'm confused when folks are saying their distances are off? I'm pretty sure the tags operate off of each other. So you hit a driver and "tag" it on the tee box at Spot A. Then you walk to your ball in the fairway, pull 7 iron, "tag" it at spot B and hit your shot. Your shot ends up on the green and you walk up to it with your putter and "tag" it at Spot C. The Game Golf software is only going to calculate the distances between Tag A to Tag B then Tag B to Tag C
  11. Hey all, I've been using my Game Golf for over 20 rounds now, and I'm starting to really see the benefit in the Analysis tab. For example, I can easily see that my approach shot misses are short of the pin for my wedges and short irons and gradually becomes a miss to the right as the clubs get longer. I fight a hook, so that's not a shock, but I had no idea how many often I was coming up short (26% of time within 100 yards). That is useful information I can work to improve on. I do agree that the GPS isn't always accurate. Giving the GPS time to catch up before tagging and post round edit
  12. [quote name='Socrates' timestamp='1397599035' post='9099487'] I'll side with the Fading Captain. And so does True Temper. Taper Tip DG's are .580" and parallel's are .600". [/quote] Thanks. I meant to include a link, but forgot. Strange how R300 is the only one .580.
  13. I know I don't contribute much, but I was actually researching this exact same issue, so I thought I should weigh in. I also thought that DGR300 butt diameter would be .600. But something I read on the Team Titleist forum led me to believe that they are using tapered shafts, not parallel shafts in their irons. The tapered shafts do have a.580 butt diameter in the R flex only. S and X flexes are listed as .600. Thanks, Brian (who should change his name to CaptainHook)
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