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  1. I happen have a bending bar with brass jaws, but I use the cheap brass hosel protectors all the time. I'd forgo the pricey bending bar and use the cheap protectors. Duct tape works too as a decent protector, but can be a pain to get the tape residue off. The brass cleats still mar my forged Mizunos, leaving dimples on the soles heel & toe. I bought the heavy-duty nylon cleats from Golfworks but they are too soft IMO and deflect too much once pressuring with my bending bar. I use a strip of heavy plastic underneath the soles of my heads, and a thinner
  2. OP use whatever buildup method and type of tape you want, but use single-sided for the last wrap. Building up will provide a bit tighter fit to the grip so should minimize twisting. If you detect some twist, it is a simple matter of blowing off-on the grip again. Add some thin spirals of double sided as Howard advises above if you experience and are bothered by the twisting. I build up my lower hand with strips of single-sided 2", 3", 4", 5", 6" and a final full wrap of single-sided. I don't bother measuring as I'm not that particular on true diameter, just as long it's a Mids
  3. I bought the Mizuno K1-LO in the early spring, thinking it had full dividers per their description. But as you found out, only floppy dividers that are not sewn top to bottom, hence useless for the task of dividing. I returned it, and picked up a Sun Mountain 3.5LS.
  4. Earlier this season I had a driver shaft that made a buzzing sound if I tapped the head on the ground. I eventually pulled the shaft from its adapter and a full 4" drip of epoxy fell out. Whomever assembled it went way too heavy on the epoxy.
  5. I once ordered a set of MP-18 MMC 4-PW brand-new but was going to replace the shafts anyway with a set of Steelfibers I had on hand. Before I placed my order, I ran an ad for "pick your shaft and grip". A member at another forum wanted PX LZ 6.5 with a specific grip. I had him prepay, then placed my order, pulled the shafts & grips and mailed them to the buyer. Got my new heads cheaper, and the buyer got new shafts & grips cheaper.
  6. JPX-900F gap wedge has been money for me. I use it for full shots and any green side chips. It has a ground leading edge that prevents digging.
  7. The core of my backup / weekend bag are both MP-18 MMC 5-PW, one with Steelfiber i110cw and the other with Steelfiber i95.
  8. ARL67

    Multiple Bags

    Matt get yourself some blades for that second bag ! You'll get addicted to the feel and the look of shiny chrome or satin. I have a set of excellent MP-4 5-PW heads that I'll build up and use for the occasional fun round. I used to game 4's and 5's before going to JPX-900F, and now a few years with MP-18 MMC for my daily gamers.
  9. My current Main set is MP-18 MMC with Steelfiber i110cw and I also have a 2nd Weekend bag with MP-18 MMC but with Steelfiber i95. FYI in both sets the 5i is a MMC Fli-Hi for some added launch. For my main set: Lob-9i SL at 36-1/8" 8i at 36-1/2" 7i at 36-7/8" 6i & 5i SL at 37-1/4" TS2 23* hybrid TS2 19* hybrid TS2 16.5* FW TS3 10.5 Driver I've been playing really well the last few seasons, and get good gapping with my above setup. My carry distance for my 7i is about 150-155 carry, 6i is 160-165, 5i is 170-175.
  10. I’d forget about it, unless you perceive a SW issue that bothers you. I once did something stupid with my TS3 driver where some stuff fell in the head and got stuck. A chemical called MEK will dilute the hot melt. It is readily available at a hardware store in their paint department. Read the instructions as it is a “serious chemical”. You can search the forum for more info on it.
  11. ^^^ can we assume your builder added weight to the heads to accommodate for the SF different weight distribution ? I’m a fan of the SF 110 & 95 and like to play my irons short ( 5-PW ). Because of the SF being a bit counter balanced, I often need to add lead tape to my 5 and 6 irons, in addition to a maximum 10g tip weight.
  12. I have 2 bags , both with MP-18 MMC with different weight Steelfiber shafts . Granted my swing , my game, my course management has greatly improved over the past 2-3 years, but the MMC have contributed greatly to much lower scores. I could readily buy the newer MP-20 but feel minimal / negligible improvement over my current MMC.
  13. When you have the head in the bending machine, you’ll check both loft and lie anyway. I have found that wedges might deviate in loft more so than the iron irons, due to a steeper AoA. Lie angles don’t seem to deviate much. I have my own bending machine and reset mine when the season starts, mid season, and end of season. In the winter I hit off mats so I do a reset before moving to grass.
  14. I'm sure you've read here already that SF shafts play firmer to flex. The Regulars are not "wimpy" at all. I have 2 sets of MP-18 MMC , one with i110CW X-Stiff ( Home bag ) and the other with i95 Regular HS 1x ( weekend bag ) , same build specs, same grips . That's quite a span of shafts, but I play both sets equally well. For me the biggest feel difference is total weight, not the flex. I adjust pretty quickly from one set to another.
  15. I have CP2 Wrap Jumbo on my L-S-G wedges, and Mid on everything else. On those wedges, I like the added weight, the counter weight effect, and the larger diameter frees up grip tension ... or so I've convinced myself ?
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