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Pingman222's Achievements



  1. I did have them bent back then and have been playing them combo'd with the s55 4-6 with no issues in gapping whatsoever. The blueprints are very playable in the scoring irons and I absolutely love the look, shape, and feel. The i59s in the long irons would make a for a really beautiful combo set, will just need to decide if I want to fork over the cash as there is absolutely nothing wrong with my long iron s55's at the moment
  2. Chiming back in, I bit the bullet and have the blueprints in 7-PW now combo'd with my 4-6 S55'S. I actually had my S55's in the same irons weakened lofts a tiny bit, and the lofts match up right on the blueprints. These things are just easily as playable in these irons and imo they actually blend very well with the s55. My only issue with them now is that they are blue dot (1 up) and I'm an orange dot (2 flat) guy. I decided to try them anyways but yes I am definitely noticing the overly left flight tendency and I think this is why they've also been flying slightly longer, with the extra draw spin. With that being said, and with the short enough season already here, sending them back to ping for a lie adjustment would leave me without them for approx 5+ weeks....with these being fully forged would anyone see any issues bending these in a traditional way via bending bar and jig?
  3. Have been gaming my S55's for 7 years now and had no real plans to change anything there, but have an opportunity to buy some BP's in mint shape for 7-W. I had my S55s bent ever so slightly strong in the 4-6, and my S55s weakened a touch 7-P, essentially matching the blueprints, so loft-wise I shouldn't see much difference. Not sure there's much to gain here other than some shiny new sticks to replace my aging S55s (especially the most used ones), but has anyone tried this combo with good result?
  4. The wingspan thing does make sense, Ive always had to play flat lie angles so I do remember having longer arms. This isn't the first time I've heard about making a better hip turn and that is something I can definitely work on. I also do believe that my right arm disconnects because since I restrict the hip turn, I'm basically reaching to get the swing to the length i need vs just turning more. At least something to think about
  5. Very true. Added video clip. Wish I could have gotten it in high fps slow Mo, maybe next time!
  6. A little bit about myself and my game to start: Played as low as a 0.3, but normally hover in the 2-4 index just depending. Rarely practice properly (no time and low interest). Decently happy with how I play tee to green, I believe most of my strokes lost are around and on green. I'm willing to put more practice and work into my game, with the ultimate goal of breaking 70 and getting to scratch or better. With that being said, I need to deal with a personal obsession of my backswing positions to either convince myself to leave it and swing my swing, or change it. I've ALWAYS had higher hands at the top of the backswing, longer length, parallell club, and the right elbow separating from the body. No matter what I do (glove in armpit drill, tour striker smart ball etc), as soon as I stop using those tools/aids, my swing goes back to this no matter how flat I feel like my swing is. I know there are successful high hands/elbow players out there, so I'm wondering if that's just what I am as well, and should just count my blessings that I'm lucky enough to be able to sync that type of swing up. Is there any chance that I am literally "physically" unable to get into the more "ideal" position? On the other hand, I always wonder if there is consistency to gain from a shallower lead arm and a more connected trailing elbow, with a trickle down effect of an even better tee to green game, leading to easier shots around the green or closer putts, aiding my average short game. I know it's always a slippery slope for myself looking at my swing on video because I get this obsession with the backswing top position, and I KNOW it's not everything....help me. 20210403_122425_1.mp4
  7. just wondering if anyone would know or can measure the untipped length of the Speeder VC6.2 Tour Spec X flex from tip to a graphic? I've got my eye on this oldie, wanting to throw it into my 410LST but would like to know if it's been tipped or not....
  8. Tour spec? These are more available and for quite a bit cheaper... Hmmm
  9. I think I'm finally up to retiring my 8.5° anser which has seen all of a 6M3 X black tie, a 757 speeder Evo TS, and a AD TP 6X. The TP6X is gone and so now I've got the funds to add a new driver to the bag. I did test the 425LST with the ping rep on trackman indoors and saw some pretty great results over my anser (not super surprised), but I'm not entirely sold on the stock rogue with it. Obviously I'm not averse to older tech, so I've got the opportunity to go 2 directions. I can either snag a 410LST (which I've never hit either though) and pair it with a nice shaft, for less than a stock 425 LST. I do tend to like shaft upgrades for fun, but unfortunately this comparison would ha e to be done with the 425 with only stock available options, the budget just isn't there for a 425 with more upcharges. I'll have to get some testing in with a 410 LST somehow, but which way would you guys lean? Keep in mind I was playing a 10 year old model, I think either way I'm gaining some measurable off-center mishits. SS on the trackman was ~113avg and I struggle with high spin, and have always gotten along with low/low shafts, hence the 6M3 love.
  10. You know it, I've gamed this driver long enough to hit some impressive drives still, but the high toe and low heels are just not even close to what something from this decade is pumping out lol
  11. Yeah the issue I have with that fitting/fitter was the whole time he seemed to be playing it off that the white 70TX WAS the shaft I'd be getting for the standard retail shelf price. He was basically already writing up the order. I got the quote back from the club showing it with a white 70X, but at the fitting, distinctly remember checking the shaft and it definitely said 70TX, and would also support why my 2nd demo of the club of my own with the X was spinning up on me. I don't want to be accusing anyone of anything, but it feels a little "bait and switch" to me right now.
  12. I have already been offered a Ventus black and think that could be a pretty deadly low spin combo with a 410LST, and the total cost of that setup would still be cheaper than a stock 425LST, and i could still sell the tp6X pull to offset the cost a bit too. I know ping advertises the 425 spinning ~200 less than the 410, but also not sure what shafts those claims are based on either. I do know that either of them would give me way better numbers outside of the center of the face compared to my anser, but am I right in assuming that a decade is enough technology time to have evolved the spin in these heads (shafts aside) to make a 1000rpm difference? For instance, being totally hypothetical, GD TP-6X in an 8.5 anser spinning 2900, what would it spin in a 400/410/425 LST?
  13. Kind of a tough situation to try and estimate, but here's basically what I'm going through at the moment. Was a typical equipment tinkerer for a long time, but have settled down and played the same set for many seasons now. Even took 2 years off but got back in hard last year and will continue on now. Current driver setup is a ping anser 8.5* with a GD TP-6X. I hit it decently out on the course but ended up in a demo test/fitting with ping at my club out of curiosity and now am stuck with what to do. On trackman my average launch conditions are not bad, 111-112SS, 167-168 ball speed, 12-13 launch, but with the anser my spin is quite high, ranging anywhere from 2800-3400 on some hits. Launch conditions with a g425 LST 9* w/ a rogue white 70TX were about the same but spin was more optimal closer to that 2000 range, and the results were staggering with massive increases on carry and total yardage, basically +20. My issue here is that I went back to my club yesterday after thinking about that fitting, and demoing the g425 again, but without the fitter there, only the rogue white 70X was available, and not the TX, and my spin numbers were back up around 25-2600. Reading a bunch on here, I now understand that the rogue TX is a completely different profile than the regular X, and it definitely shows in my findings. Knowing this now, I'm pretty conflicted with the fitters session. It was pretty apparent that an upgrade would be welcomed after this much time, and that the 425LST with the 70TX rogue white was the move. I had slightly better numbers with the Ventus black, but even the fitter noted that it probably wouldnt be worth the upcharge when the rogue was working pretty nicely for me too. My problem now is finding out that the rogue TX is not a stock offering in the 425, only the regular X...and I really hope that the fitter wasn't trying to pull a fast one on me to get me to order. I've emailed my club to get some clarification on that. It was already tough enough for me to convince myself that the $700cad for the driver would be worth it, but now it's looking like this would venture into the $1100+ range, and as much as I'd like to, that's just not feasible for me right now. With knowing that most of the better results are coming from a reduction in spin, and not really any other factors (and more forgiving mishits), does anyone know if the GD TP-6X that I already have, can hold its own spin-rate wise against the rogue white TX or even the Ventus black? Some of my ideas to get the cost of a new driver back into my wheelhouse would be to grab maybe a 410LST head or something and then throw my TP6X in it, I just don't know if the heads over the years have really been able to shave that much spin. Sorry for the long winded post, I'm just lost with the knowing the gains being left on the table, but just not being in the ballpark money wise....
  14. The wife found the stash of extra grips and told me to get rid of them to get funds so I can take my son to Legoland next week...let's make that happen! Up for sale is 3 full sets of grips. I'm going to California on Sunday and can bring them with me and ship them from there to make things easier for shipping and what not. I always blow my grips on with air so these are all easy to re-use. looking to get $40usd shipped for each set! 1) set of 13 black pure pro standard size grips. They have been used about a season but if you know anything about pure grips, they barely show wear except a little on the cap. They're still tacky and will provide the new user lots of grip for many more rounds. 2) set of 12+1 green pure P2 wrap in midsize. I say 12+1 because I got overzealous with a reshaft once and hit the butt end of the club too hard on the ground which cut the end cap. I epoxied it back in there but full disclosure. Would be a perfect grip for a counterweight! Used for about 30 rounds and again you'd be hard pressed to find any wear on these things. 3) lamkin i-lines. 3 black and 11 lime green. The lime ones have the older lamkin logo. I only used these about 10 rounds but they're so tacky hence the dirty nature of them. Sorry about the caps as well, it was a paintfill/cap coloring experiment during my winter boredom. The 2 grips on top I gave a very quick cleaning to just to show that they can be cleaned up. Still super soft and really tacky, should be good to go for a while still. PM with any questions!
  15. Currently looking at picking up an older loft/lie machine. It seems to be the older Ralph Matlby GAM model. I would love to get a mitchell or a true blue but it's just not in the budget, and i don't see myself using this more than a handful of times. I play pings anyways so i wouldn't really even be bending my own, but maybe friends clubs and a couple of customers a year. What would this even be worth anymore you think?
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