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  1. Hi all, All prices include shipping to CONUS. Brand new, very nice Peter Millar stand bag. Navy w/light blue. Original MSRP $260.00. Made in USA by Sun Mountain! 3.5 oz. bag with some very nice, distinct detail work to dress it up vs a standard Sun Mountain 3.5. $135.00 Will entertain offers.3 Peter Millar XL left hand gloves. Brand new in package. Original MSRP $25.00 ea. Full premium leather. White with light blue stitching and details. SOLDCallaway Epic Flash 13.5* 3 wood with Tensei Blue 75S shaft. Excellent condition. Barely used. SOLD2018 Callaway X forged UT. PX 5.5. Standard L/L/L. In
  2. I play the T200 now. I never owned the AP3, but I tested them extensively. My previous set were 716 TMB which I found performed similar to AP3 when I tested those. I didn't buy AP3 just due to the fact that I found them to be a little hard and loud. But the performance itself was outstanding. Not good enough to replace my TMB though. The T200 is definitely a softer feeling, more muted sounding club. Hitting clubs outdoors is completely different than hitting them indoors in a bay so when I hear people saying they are either hard or loud I typically assume they hit them indoors or they current
  3. I switched to graphite when I bought the irons I have now (T200). I really like them. I can't imagine I'll ever go back to steel. I do notice a difference in the way my body feels. And frankly they're just much easier for me to swing. I got fitted and ordered mine with Tensei AV blue shafts. I gotta say that while they are lighter and certainly absorb shock much better than steel, they also flat out perform. I was worried about the ball flight being too high or ballooning, but they are just awesome. Very smooth feel and a nice medium ball flight which I prefer. Just make sure you get fitted.
  4. I will have to agree. My SLDR did produce some freakishly long drives for me. Obviously it's not the most forgiving lol. But when you catch it there's nothing I've ever hit that is longer.I really like the SIM driver I'm playing now. It's plenty long and it's pretty forgiving too. And certainly I'd think my average driving distance is probably slightly better with the SIM. But those occasional bombs (the ones you just couldn't explain) were a lot of fun. Don't plan on taking the SIM out of the bag, but I am going to take the SLDR to the course and do some head to head testing to confirm. But t
  5. I ordered my set 4-7 i500 and 8-pw i210. I like the feel of the i210 over the iblades. I did powerspec on the 8-PW as you mentioned. It's worked out good for me. When I got them I tested the distance gaps and they worked out exactly as I'd planned. But like you I wasn't 100% it was going to work. I'd say either i210 or iblades will be a good choice. It's really just which ever you prefer.
  6. I think you'd agree that wasn't the point I was trying to make. My point was you expect to have an "opportunity" to capitalize and have an 'opportunity' to0 make birdie with a GW in your hands. And I think it's fair to assume that if you're going to be either making the choice to hit something soft or something hard to work around a gap in your irons you'd prefer it be at the other end of the bag. Or maybe you don't agree. I'm not a professional, but when I'm 100 yards from the green I'm not that happy when I don't hit it inside 15 feet. Expecting to and doing it are 2 completely different th
  7. I can imagine doing this, but I'd never consider kicking the GW out of the bag to try that. If I were taking a club out to try 2 drivers it would definitely be one of my longer clubs. For me it would either be the 3 wood or my 2 hybrid. But I'd rather even take my 6 iron out of the bag and hit a choke down 5 iron that take my gap wedge away. If you're pretty good you expect to hit a 110 yard wedge to 10 feet. Trying to consistently do that by gearing down on a pitching wedge seems risky. And even if you can dial in the distance, trying to hit easy PW to a front flag or in firm conditions where
  8. Funny I have the same problem and I just checked. The lie angle is 59* (more upright than my hybrids) which is the same as an M6, M4 and M2 and that's why I never considered those. I bought the Srixon head I have new/used for so cheap ($75.00)I had to try it and I never checked the lie angle. And the posts above are correct. It's maybe the most forgiving fairway wood I've ever hit. Despite the deep face and mine being a 13.5* with a Rogue shaft I have no problem getting it up in the air off the deck. But it does have a tendency to draw more than I'd prefer. I have my old Adams (57*)that is pre
  9. SLDR 430. unfortunately it was probably the least forgiving club I've ever owned. It was either bomb or dud lol. I tested the Epic Flash Sub Zero, the Mavrik Sub Zero and the SIM at the same time and the SIM won the overall, but the highest ball speed was the Epic Flash.
  10. I'm gonna jump in on this one and I usually avoid these threads lol. But this one is interesting. I can't and won't speak for others about this topic. I play to a 4.1 index now and have been as low as +2 in my life. I've played blades, players CBs and GI irons, although the GI experiment is recent and ongoing, but so far successful. I played blades for a few reasons. When I was 'good enough, whatever that means', to play blades I admit there was some vanity involved, or more like arrogance. They look great, nothing feels better, and because I was a very consistent ball striker I didn't see a
  11. I've got both of them. The XTD Ti is currently in the bag. Personally I prefer the white head of the LS, But unfortunately it has a whistle when you swing it. Always has. They messed that up. The XTD Ti launches easily and yes I'd agree it's still as long as the average 3 wood around (SIM and Epic Flash seem to be longer than everything else I hear)l. I'm still playing it with a Fubuki shaft so I'd imagine if I went with a lower spinning current model shaft it would probably be as long as anything else out there. Who knows, but I'd agree if you don't mind looking at the slot in the top of the
  12. Some really nice stuff here guys. All in very good to excellent condition. Prices include shipping to 48 states. Bridgestone J40 CB/DPC combo set! 4-6 DPC and 7-PW CB. Shafted with DG AMT Tour White S300 w/NDMC standard grips. Standard L/L/L. Lots of pics! These are 9+/10. I don't want to call them brand new because I did play about 3 rounds of golf with them. I had a set of new backup heads that I finally shafted up a few months ago, but given I still have my old set of J40 and I'm in the midst of a GI experiment I will likely never play these. It's likely this may be the nicest set to ever
  13. I have 4-PW in G700. I've had no problem holding greens btw. Maybe it's a shaft thing. I still play a heavier shaft and I've always found the original DG shafts to be a higher spinning shaft. I actually spin my 7 iron 6500 rpm which is perfect. I only hit them about 5 yards longer than my last set of irons. Obviously if I was spinning them 5000 rpm like some people find with these I'd be hitting them much farther and having more trouble holding greens I guess. I bought them because they're easy to hit and they go high and straight, not necessarily to hit them a lot farther. I still kept the 19
  14. I have a buddy who has an M3 3 wood (among about 10 others that seem to rotate in & out of the bag). He let me borrow it recently as I've been eyeing 3 woods and both of these are on my list. I tested the SIM before the stores closed, but I just refuse to pay $400 for a 3 wood (yeh I know I paid $550 for a driver, but at least I hit it 10 times a round). Anyway I was curious about spin rates between the 2. The M3 seemed to be a pretty low spinning head. It has the Tensei blue shaft in it. And for a 15* head it was fairly low launching. Now mind you, I liked that characteristic as frankly I
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