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rebby

ClubWRX
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  1. SM3 master race checking in. SM3s are pretty new. Those of us who actually have them in hand have only had them for a few weeks.
  2. In the market for a few shafts. Looking for a couple of driver shafts to start with. - Ventus Black 6x - Atmos Blue or Patriot 6x Untipped in all cases. Would like something that will play 45.5” or more in a TaylorMade Sim2. Current tip isn’t important since I can swap if needed. Also looking for a set of KBS $-Taper 125 shafts. Would prefer PVD finish if possible. Need 2-Wedges but will settle for less. Let me know what you have and what you’d like for them. Shipping to 55092. Thanks!
  3. TaylorMade MG3 wedges. Never expected to go for a cast wedge but these flat out perform.
  4. I see what you're saying and I think it's the angle combined with a little lens distortion. When I hold up various heads to my monitor none of the heads look quite right. The driver looks deeper and shorter heel to toe and I know that this is not the case so it has to be angle/distortion messing with us.
  5. I'm on the hunt for one as well. Short of sending unsolicited PMs here and getting lucky, I'm not sure how I'm going to find one!
  6. Driver is the same as retail. I have one of his previously gamed SIM2 heads and the head itself is no different than one that I purchased retail. The front/rear weights have been swapped out on this specific head in an attempt to lower spin a little, the rear weight screw has been replaced with a T25 screw (on the van by Wade, he had these made to replace the T20), and this head has the tour issue "+" stamping to indicate that it has been COR tested (like all Tour heads). I wonder if the weight configuration is the same in this driver as the one that I have? The back of the weight isn't pictured above. Mine has an 8g weight in the back and either a 7.1g or 9.5g weight up front (don't remember off the top of my head exactly which one).
  7. At the moment I'm skipping a 4-iron since I prefer consistent 4' loft gaps throughout the set. My irons consist of 2, 3, 5-9 then into my wedges. Number on the sole doesn't matter, yardage gaps do.
  8. As a long term 48* PW guy I asked Greg specifically about the 46* offering. He said that he preferred 46* because the majority of the Tour guys are playing 46* or 47* PWs and his preference is to ALWAYS bend weak since it will reduce offset and increase bounce which is preferable to increasing offset and decreasing bounce. Offset isn't much but even a little will be an instant negative, especially for Tour players. As for increasing bounce, it's trivial to grind it off if needed but difficult to impossible to add bounce. On another note, my son is finally out of the hospital (it was a LONG few weeks with 2 medical transports, including one by plane). We got home late last week and I was finally able to hit a few shots with these wedges. In true WRX form, but totally contrary to how I normally promote clubs to my bag, I put these right in and played 18. I was a little rusty and after playing in wet conditions, so are my MG3s (see what I did there?). The amount of rust is actually minimal but I can see it starting to form. I've been playing black oxide irons for over a decade so no surprise there. I actually had the opportunity to hit a lot of different wedge shots today. I was hitting my driver really well (G400 is OUT, Sim2 is IN) which set up a number of wedge shots into a number of greens. I was fortunate enough to spend the majority of my day hitting my irons poorly which also set up a number of various shots around the green (I typically hit quite a few greens, not the case today). All comparisons below will be directly with the wedges that I've played the majority of this summer, Ben Hogan Equalizer II TX Grind. Full shots; I went in to the day simply guessing at how far I'd hit these wedges. I didn't hit a single range ball prior to my round today and I switched my wedges from 48/53/58 to 46/50/54/58 so much of my day I was making Bryson-like estimates on how far I'd hit these based on my previous yardages, a little math (3y/degree of loft), and a modest adjustment for fall temperatures. For the most part, I was close enough for a Sunday round in late fall. Just like my time at the fitting, what really came to light with full shots was how easily these wedges went through the turf. I dropped an extra ball here and there to get a few more full shots in and even took a few full swings with my 58 which isn't something that I typically do. Spin was about ideal on full shots with my ball never being more than a couple of feet from the ball mark. Partial shots; This is where a reconfiguration of my lofts is going to pay the most dividends. 46/50/54/58 is a new configuration for me. The last time I played I played a 4-wedge setup it was 48/52/56/60 with varied bounces across the line. In this case I'm playing standard bounce in all but the 58' which is a low bounce. As I mentioned above, I hit a few extra balls here and there so I swapped back and forth between the 58' and 54' for a few different shots and can already see how having this combo will make things a bit easier. I know that we're splitting hairs concerning loft but I've never been comfortable attempting certain shots with less than 54'. For that reason, there was never much of a benefit to the 48/52/56/60 combination for me. Anyway, these partial shots is where I noticed an obvious difference in spin between the MG3s and several of the wedges that I've played before (Hogan Eq II, Eq, TK, Mizuno, Miura, Yururi, etc). TaylorMade is definitely on to something w/the face treatment on the MG3. The raw face is a major benefit in this regard as well since they can be so much more exact on the face during production since they don't have to concern themselves with how a finish will affect groove geometry and potential USGA/R&A compliance. Green-side; Today I only used my 54' & 58' around the greens and due to my aforementioned mediocre iron play I was even able to hit a few shots into elevated greens while short sided. The sole grind on the low bounce 58' was exactly what I've been looking for. I never felt that I needed to "work" the wedge at all. I just tossed a specific area of the sole into the turf depending on the shot I wanted to play and it would glide right on through and pop the ball right out. With previous, higher bounce, options I'd have to be very deliberate about this and if I missed my spot on either the sole or the turf, some of the more delicate shots could result in disaster. It also made some of the touchier, short sided, shots a little more difficult since I'd need more speed to get the sole through the turf as intended. This is no longer a problem with the MG3s due to both the bounce and the relief that is part of this specific grind. Sand; The bunkers were wet and firm today and the one that I was fortunate enough to play out of was unusually shallow where my ball happened to settle due to a great deal of rain over the past few weeks. Once I saw my lie I was actually really looking forward to seeing how my new low bounce 58' would handle the situation. This is typically one of those shots that I alluded to earlier where I'd have to hit my spots perfectly with just the right amount of speed or I'd be in some real trouble. I trusted that the sole would work through the sand just fine and actually hit a really good shot. It's a small sample size and I did put a good swing on it but I was very happy with both the results and how the wedge handled such an unfortunate lie. I don't see a lot of really light / fluffy bunkers but I do wonder how the same wedge would handle that situation. I'm sure that it'll require a little adjustment my current process but I'm sure it won't be anything insurmountable. In summary I can't wait to spend more time with these wedges. Greg nailed the sole design on these and I'm really looking forward to seeing what I can do with these once I have an opportunity to work with them more. I can see these sticking around my bag for some time to come. I even quashed my concerns about bending these the other night when I checked the specs out on my Mitchell. I made a few minor tweaks and although not as easy to manipulate as my Miuras (what clubs are?) they were nowhere near as difficult to move as a lot of cast clubs can be. I'm hoping to get a few more rounds in before MN weather puts the brakes on things so I'll be sure to report more as things progress.
  9. That’s actually an SL in the circle? I always thought it was a reverse K. I can see it. Learn something new everyday.
  10. The reverse circle-k indicates that these have conforming grooves.
  11. If you're open to splitting these up I'd be interested in the shafts.
  12. Sounds like an experience I had in high school when I shot 50 - 29 for a smooth 79. For the sake of this thread, that's probably my max total w/out breaking par. 7 birdies in route to a 79 that I still remember nearly 20+ years later. FWIW, my score counted in the match and my team won (brutal cold and wind that day).
  13. On a TaylorMade, if you don’t have the o-ring in place the head will feel tight initially but within a few swings a wobble will become pretty apparent. I don’t know if ALL TaylorMade heads do this or not but I can think of at least a couple where this is the case (including a Sim2 that I have in my possession at this very moment). I don’t remember this being an issue with any PING heads that I’ve worked with (I haven’t tried this with a G410 or a G425). The way that the PING is designed, I’m not sure that the o-ring is required but it maybe necessary to maintain torque and keep the screw from backing out over time.
  14. Some heads NEED the o-ring. One that comes to mind is TaylorMade. I just put the screw all the way into the head and drop the o-ring onto the end of the screw. You can usually get it to mate up at least a little bit, use a tee to press it down a little if needed. Then just screw the head on and that will seat the o-ring the rest of the way. To remove, I just press the screw out of the head with a golf tee. This process works better for some heads than others. The TaylorMade heads are pretty simple. It’s been a while since I needed to replace a screw/o-ring on a PING so I’ll just wish you luck. The process is pretty similar though.
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