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About Me




Found 5 results

  1. Sorry in advance, bit of a nit picky post here. Playing SS 120-125ish, into the low 130’s when messing around in a simulator. Looking for as low launch shaft as I can find, but I also really enjoy that loading feeling at the top. To throw in a 3rd wrinkle, I’ve also found that I don’t get along with lower balance point shafts ex: TZ5/Hzrdus Black. I’ve recently gamed Hzrdus Yellow, PO Orange, and TZ5. Yellow felt the best, but launched super high, Orange performed the best, but there’s no distinctive load. It may well be that I’m looking for a bit of a unicorn, but I’m open to opinions or reviews of shafts anyone has used. Thanks!
  2. Long story short; I stumbled across this used shaft. It has a Callaway driver adaptor but is fairway length. The length of the shaft not including adaptor is about 41.5". In the photo you see the measurement from the tip not counting adaptor. What I'm trying to find out is; if this shaft has been tip trimmed or not. Thanks for any and all help.
  3. Pretty much all of the fairway wood shafts I've played in the past have had recommended tip trim instructions of the usual 0.5" trim for 3 wood, 1" for 5 wood (sometimes 7-wood these days) etc. which seems to have worked nicely in general, comparing how the shaft performs from driver to 3 wood etc.. Recently I've picked up a few Fujikura and older Aldila models that recommend 0 tip trim for 3 woods and I'm abit nervous/curious about why they do this. It's not as if the tips of the shaft are so stiff in comparison to other manufactures that they perform differently (or is it?!). Is it just a presumption that you want a fairway wood to launch higher than a driver? I'm not sure that's always the case from a shaft perspective, loft does the job for the most part. I've noticed Aldila have gone to the standard 0.5"-3 wood, 1" 5 wood or similar since being brought out by MRC. Anyway, so the question is what are peoples experiences or knowledge of why they do this? And how has if effected the performance of the shaft? Has not trimming the 3 wood shaft worked or have you had better results ignoring Fujikura etc. advice and going with the usual 0.5" trim etc? Anybody follow the no tip trim advice on shafts from other manufacturers that usual recommend trimming and had success? Any particular experience of the Fujikura Atmos line would be appreciated! Cheers
  4. So i did the club champion thing and ended up with replacing the standard project X 6.0 iron shafts (think they say rifle at the top, blue/grey labeling) with Oban CT-115 stiffs. Being a lighter and overall different feeling shaft, it took a few rounds to get used to them, but now that I'm dialed, I can't say I've ever hit the ball better. I've always been a pretty good iron player, and maybe an even better wedge player. But lately I'm starting to notice I can't seem to hit 85-105 LW/SW wedge shots (vokey's with 'wedge flex' shafts) as well or as crisply as I'm used to hitting them. The fact the they consistently seem to be short and left of my target (I'm LH) resemble the miss when a shaft is too much for you to get around. I'm thinking that the lighter iron shafts are making the transition to the Vokey wedge flex shafts too much to handle now, and that maybe i should replace them with lighter shafts. From my research, it seems the Obans have ~109g shafts, the vokey's have S200 DG shafts at ~130g (assuming the internet is correct), and my old 6.0's have ~120g shafts. Does it make sense to lighten the shafts on my wedges now that I have lighter iron shafts? Should i play around and install the project X's to keep the weight difference iron and wedge about 10g like my set up was before? Or maybe should I add Oban's to the wedges? Has anyone done this or experienced any of this? If so, I'm curious to hear your results. Thanks.
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