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Hey all, I'm just looking for some help on deciding which shaft option to go for. I had the Tour 65x in my G400 LST, but the crown ended up cracking on me over the winter. Ping was nice enough to replace it with a G410 LST and I thought I'd give the 75x a go. It's been working well, but I've noticed my consistency of strike has gone a bit. I think when they accidentally sent me the 75S they had swing weighted the head with that and no grip and sent it to me at D0. The strike has come back a bit with the swing weight up only a little, probably around D1.5. noticed a drop off in distance even when I do catch it, even though my swing speed has stayed fairly consistent. Anyways, just curious on what some opinions might be of going Ventus Black in the 6x or 7x, or maybe just actually buy some quality lead tape and bring the swing weight up first on my driver. I've noticed that the Ventus has been super popular since it came out. I swing it a touch over 120 and I have no issues getting it in the air or with distance. Swing about 3 or 4 up with a pretty neutral path. I'm really looking to gain some consistency with my strike as I feel my timing is off with the 75g shaft and wonky swing weight. Thought I'd test the waters of the forum before I go shelling out some money. Going to try and get out and test the options too, but this whole virus thing is putting a deeper on that. Thanks a bunch everyone.

Understanding the correct use of MOi in a putter. See below. Click to view the mini Giant FGP and mini Giant DF.

Receive a proper putter fitting - SeeMore Putter Company - Director of Tour and SPi Cody Hale - Find out more at SeeMore.comClick HERE to view video.

Hey WRXers! I am 26, a 17 handicap, and like most people here, a club junkie. This has lead to me often tinkering with clubs and always guessing if I am playing the best equipment for my game. I am getting lessons and getting better, but really just started playing golf a few years ago. I recently bought an Epic Flash driver and 5 wood so I did not plan on letting those out of the bag just yet, but really wanted to get fit for irons and wedges. After some research, I decided to go with True Spec near my home town of Jupiter, Fl. I didn't see a lot of True Spec reviews on WRX so figured I would contribute one! Some context to start - my current irons are 718 AP1s (5-PW) with Stiff AMT Reds and my current wedges are SM7s in 48F, 54S, and 60M. My normal trajectory was low and I didn't feel confident with anything over a 7 iron. The AP1s are great clubs but I was often caught thinking, "I wonder what else is out there." I worked with Matt for my fitting and was extremely impressed. He was knowledgeable, answered my thousand questions, and really helped me to think outside the box when it comes to equipment. Would recommend him to anyone. We started with a general warm up - a few wedge shots and a few iron shots. From there, we jumped into measuring my current clubs and then hitting some 6 irons to get a baseline. Again - I hate hitting my 6 iron. Matt grabbed a bunch of heads and a few different shafts for me to hit. I hit the Apex 19, the Maverick Pro, JPX Hot Metal, P790 Ti, T300, King SpeedZone, Ping G710, and SIM Max. The shafts were a mixture of two different Nippon shafts and a Steel Fiber. The second I hit the Apex 19 with the Nippon NS Pro I was in love. It felt super buttery and the ball went further, higher, and straighter than my current gamer. It was an instant improvement. Number Averages API Gamer - 159 yards (11.7 consistency), height of 57, ball speed of 116 mphApex 19 - 169 yards (3.6 consistency), height of 60, ball speed of 111mphWe then moved on to wedges and went out the grass. Hitting on grass was really beneficial. I live full time in Denver and can't find a place to test different brands of wedges outdoors. My typical miss with my wedge is just a huge chunk. I have been working on this part of my game a lot and I guess it is paying off - after a few full swings, Matt told me he didn't think I needed new wedges at all. We went to chip some and it was a final consensus - my wedges were perfect for my game. With so many different grinds and bounces out there, this was reassuring and will just give me more confidence with the wedges. All in all it was an amazing fitting and I would recommend it to anyone. I can't imagine buying any clubs again without getting this type of service. As someone who is a club junkie, Matt could have easily convinced me to buy anything in there (it was an awesome space.) However, he made it clear that he would only do what was best for my game and that would give me improvements. To be honest, I haven't found that type of service before when looking at clubs. True Spec was the right choice and gained a loyal customer.

Riddle me this.... Titleist TS3 10.5 Rogue Elite Green 65 S club head speed of 107 / angle of attack +2.5 / launch angle 13.1 / spin rate 2017 Why would the fitter recommend sticking with a 10.5 loft when based on these figures? Everything I'm finding in my research would indicate a lower club head loft with that swing speed / AOA / LA. I'm no club fitter or instructor by any means so I'm definitely not assuming the fitter is wrong but I'm just confused by the discrepancies between what I've read online and what he's putting me in. Anybody able to come up with a theory why he'd have me on a 10.5 head?

I have a (just turned) 11 year-old son who plays competitively. He's getting along nicely with Flynn equipment, but we just recently swapped out his Driver, FW, and Hybrid with adult heads mated to Flynn OEM shafts. I believe he's strong enough to start looking at swapping the Flynn wedges out for adult wedges, but he's short for his age (53"), so I figured I'd still likely need to purchase Flynn shafts to put in them. That said, how does one go about allowing him to try different clubs to see what feels best when Flynn shafts can only be ordered online? Is this a situation where, likely, anything will work fine so just pick something and go with it? It's such a transitional age, I'm just at a bit of a loss as how to best help him move forward in equipment without setting him back by choosing something wrong (even as simple as steel vs. graphite shafts in the wedges). Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer this baseball Dad.

So I recently had 2 fittings: T100 Pw-6 + T200 5-4 w/ px 6.0 T100S Pw-4 w/ px 6.0 + 50* SM8 w/ px 6.0The T100 5-4 irons are the same lofts as the T200 6-5 irons. Would the T200 6-5 irons 0.50" longer fit the gap better than the T200 5-4 bent? Obviously it would be so weird having two 6 irons but I am just curious if anyone has tested this at all? Or would bending the T200 5-4 irons be a better option? Another option would obviously be to just go with the stronger lofted T100S so that the T200 fits in easier or just go full T100S, I just don't need to hit it any further and I would have to re gap my wedges.Thoughts? note: Currently playing R9 TP irons which are 1* weaker than the regular t100's. R9 TP also has more forgiving 5-4 irons which is why I kind of like the idea of getting T200 in my 5-4.

Not sure if anyone has fun across this or not, but True Spec Golf is giving away free fittings to first responders coming out of this covid mess. I'm sure all of us know someone who could benefit from this. They have to mention promo code THANKYOU19 and bring an ID for proof of profession. But that's it. Enjoy.

Hi y'all, I'm a high handicap golfer (22 HCI) and am currently playing 95g iron shafts. My 7i carries about 165-167y (but I think I gained half a club since last season, so I'll have to update once I get my numbers checked). Anyway, the reason why I ask about iron shaft weight is because my brother got fit for 105-110g iron shafts and I have a much faster swing speed. My wedges are 127g (which I honestly never knew until I checked right before this post) and I did notice that my dispersion is much tighter with my wedges. I know I won't know until I get fit, but wanted to see what everyone thought at face value of: Iron shaft weight being 95g30g+ difference in shaft weight between my irons and my wedgesThanks!

After years of buying lightly used sets, I’m thinking about going for a real fitting and buying a new set of the Titleist 718 cb/mb combos. Rather than buying a used set of heads, and shafts, and grips separately to get what I want. One pro-shop said that once the new irons are fully launched, say around the end of the month, the reps would be willing to deal on what are now the current models. Does anyone have any experience with this? Not just Titleist. But what kind of discount can I expect, if any? I also want to try this because nobody want to do any fitting advise unless you’re seriously looking at buying new. Whether or not I pull the trigger at least I would t feel bad because I intend to get a new set.

Testing out Club Champion for the first time by getting fit for a driver. What has been your experience as to changes in your game and scores post a fitting and purchases of clubs matching specs from a club champion fitting? I realize that you cant buy a golf game, but will I see some improvement of some sort? FYI 13 hdcp playing a Ping G400 that was not fitted but outperformed my previous Epic that was 'fitted at Edwin Watts'. Thanks.

Bumped from a different forum here based on a recommendation to do so. Sorry to ask a question that's likely been asked a bunch of times, but wondering whether anyone has insights into GolfTown (master fitter apparently at the location near me) vs. GolfTech vs. ModernGolf? I know from reading that ModernGolf seems to be the gold standard rn, but the price-point certainly gets me hesitant (would just be irons right now I think). Additionally, does GolfTech & ModernGolf only let you order the latest lines or can you do last year's models too?

Sorry to ask a question that's likely been asked a bunch of times, but wondering whether anyone has insights into GolfTown (master fitter apparently at the location near me) vs. GolfTech vs. ModernGolf? I know from reading that ModernGolf seems to be the gold standard in Canada rn, but the price-point certainly gets me hesitant (would just be irons right now I think). Additionally, does GolfTech & ModernGolf only let you order the latest lines or can you do last year's models too?

Hi all, Sorry in advance for the long-winded post… Probably a dumb question, but I am looking to update / upgrade my set of irons with a newer model used set. Just wondering whether it’s worth paying for a fitting session even if I don’t buy new clubs so I can try to make a more educated decision on the used clubs (I don't mind paying for the service even if I don’t buy the clubs at that specific shop).GolfTown (close one has a decent pre-owned section) or GolfTech look to be the closest options - there's also a Modern Golf nearby. Talked to the sales associates at GolfTown, and they said they have master fitters at both locations near me. I think I can do an iron fitting session for ~$40CAD at GolfTown; Modern Golf ~$150CAD (ouch), GolfTech ~$100CAD Currently shooting Ping S57 with S300 shafts - black dot. They look great, and when I strike it well, they feel amazing, but I’m thinking they're a bit above my skill-level and moving to something a little more GI. Bought them from the pro I was taking lessons from about 10 years ago (significant discount as he was getting new clubs) - my focus on golf hasn't been where we both thought it would be (note, I haven’t seen him ~7-8 years). I don’t think the consistency on my swing is quite there all the time for player’s iron (yes, I know working on it / lessons is what I should do, but a bit more forgiveness may be nice). As for the used clubs, I'm going that route for a couple reasons: 1) it's a touch pricey for brand spanking new clubs for me right now, and 2) I don't know how much golf I'll be playing next year (I could be moving, so practice time may go down). Uncle was buying a new set of clubs, and I tried the M4 he was testing on the simulator at GolfTown (wanted to see what the club felt like and what my speed was). **Irons**: mid 80s **Driver** (bought a new one after cracking my old one): 95-101 mph (got a regular flex) All that being said, just wondering if it's worth to at least get a bit more info / talk to a fitter about what kinds of clubs may fit for where I am right now? Sorry for the long-winded post…

To start this year, I have noticed that when I'm striking and compressing it my best, I look up in the sky and find the ball starting fairly wide outside of my target and curving probably 40 feet (About the width of a small green) and not usually drawing-past the target of course it would the odd time. That's without changing anything that's comfortable or normal for my stance (square), clubface (square), and grip (A fraction strong). Couple weeks ago when I was on the Quad I was tending to be around 3* In to Out. If I weaken my grip and open my stance, I can reduce curvature on command - but it doesn't feel like I'm squishing the ball the same at impact. I am looking for what a fitter would do in their process to reduce the draw curvature. (Whats prioritized first? Shaft, offset, grip, others? ect) I am playing PX 6.0 right now because I enjoy the feel I get from it, even though I would fit into X categories (94ish mph 7i Swing Speed). Next up, I play with the regular Multi-Compound grips (But I do like the feel of +4's). My irons are old Mizuno MP-58's. (.13 Offset in 7i) Fitters and Golf Nerds alike, thank you for your time! -DJ

HI All, I am looking into getting custom fit for new clubs. I am looking at Aloha Golf Center LV and GolfTEC Henderson. Does anyone have experience/recommendations with these? Or a different club fitter in Las Vegas/Henderson. Also i have a fixed budget to spend on clubs. Will the club fitters work with me to fit inside my budget? I have heard of huge upcharges on custom shafts/grips/etc. Will they work with me on manf. shaft/grip options? Thanks!

The Trap Draw - a powerful strike that gives the player the feeling of hitting a golf shot to pure. I'm not referring to the snap hooks to get out of trouble trap draw. I mean when you turn the toe of the club in ever so slightly at address, maybe put the ball back an extra inch in your stance, consciously hit down and through the ball in a full swing. That feeling of de-lofting your iron and compressing the s**t out of the ball against the ground feels so powerful. I don't know what specific combination of what I mentioned above leads to the significantly more powerful ball flight / strike that feels EXTRA solid - that's just what works for me. Is it possible to feel the exact same way through impact; powerful, compressed and pure - but have a baby cut come out as a result? I don't like seeing the ball go right to left much anymore, but the problem is that when it is - It feels like I'm striking it my best. A perspective in Dynamics: What are some of the dynamics that come into play that perhaps you could do all in a fit - that would result in the change to a trap baby cut? (Less offset in the club, much more stiff shaft combo'd with bending for more toe-down dynamic lie? ect) Thank you fitters, experts, and the golf nerds for pitching in!

I was being fit on GC Quad and finding my launch and spin #’s to be low with virtually every company that I was initially attracted to: Srixon Z785’s, Titleist T-100, and Mizuno MP-20 MMC’s. I was looking for a forgiving players iron. I had been in the Mizuno MP-58’s w/ Project X 6.5 for the last 9 years and wanted a little more forgiveness on miss-hits. Ball striking is a strength of mine, but I wanted to get more forgiveness just because. I am a +3.5 handicap, and will likely start to try to piece together a bag of clubs under the same company with the hopes to improve my game some more and perhaps turn professional and lose a bunch money to the freaks playing on the Mack Tour. Because of having all Titleist clubs in my bag except irons I was horny to try the T100's and was biased to try to throw them in my bag. But it didn't go as I would have liked, spinning them only at around 5,500 rpms no matter the shaft which isn't super playable. We could tell early in the fitting that spin was an issue with my delivery characteristics and needed addressing. I tested using 7 irons, lofts shown on each club. I used ProV1x for the testing and was limited in shaft combinations that were consistent among each product. I used DG 120 X-100 for every head except the Mizuno (DG 130g X-100, I know it's a very different shaft). I also started to swing slower after the T100 so ball speeds drops are a little misleading. I had a lot more swings than just the screenshots I have provided, I tried other shafts with each model as well, just kept the #'s with the shaft that I could compare and contrast the easiest with. The fitter said that he had noticed a good 500rpm increase in spin with the Ping heads in fits, so I tried them. Was shocked to see the numbers back up his findings. I was more amazed that the i210 spun higher than the other heads even with a degree less of loft (33*). Never knew something with such a chunky sole could feel so good off the face and with turf interaction. We should have deleted a couple of bad swings from the data to compare the clubs more equal for std deviations, my first swing after waiting for the clubs to be built with each of the ping heads were slow and not great; hence the bigger outliers for std deviation What do people think about Pings iBlade and i210 models? I'm a little scared of the chunkyness of the i210's in the shorter clubs, but so many pros still bag the whole set of them. Also, has anyone else found high spin heads in this category of forgiving player irons? Thank you for any comments, Numbers at a glance: Mizuno MP-20 MMC (DG 130g X-100): 33* Loft (Bent up 1) Ballspeed: 130.8 (STD DEV. 1.3) Backspin: 5449 (STD DEV.197) Titleist T100: 34* Loft Ballspeed: 129.6 (STD DEV. 1.0) Backspin: 5500 (STD DEV.191) **Start swinging slower at this stage of testing** Ping iBlade: 34* Loft Ballspeed: 128.5 (STD DEV. 1.0) Backspin: 5933 (STD DEV.422) Ping i210: 33* Loft Ballspeed: 129.6 (STD DEV. 1.7) Backspin: 6344 (STD DEV.410)

Hi all, I was fit into the Atmos Blue TS 6S a few months back at my local club champion and have been loving the straight, mid-flight BOMBS. Last weekend, I convinced my friend to finally (after 6 long years of playing generic, beginner clubs) get fit for proper clubs, and ended up getting a free driver fitting on the side while I was waiting. The fitter present at the time fitted me into a Ventus 6S at the end of my session as my carry and ball speed increased with the shaft, and now I'm a bit conflicted. What would you say are the similarities / differences between the two shafts? Should I be considering the Ventus as well? Also, any thoughts on the Tensei Pro Orange? _On a side note - friend has since received his spanking new set and is in LOVE! _ **TL;DR - Always get fitted for your clubs if you're going to be dropping $$$ one way or another** :D

I've never had anything approximating a proper wedge fitting. I've complained via Vokey's website that they didn't have enough LA area fitting 'partners' and was surprised to see that GolfTec was an added option sometime recently. 2 or 3 GT's have opened in my general vicinity so I decided to go in for a wedge fitting. It was abysmal. The fitter did not realize that there are different shaft lengths between various wedge lofts. Told me when he was last involved in the industry that was not the case. My confidence was not inspired. But I proceeded to let him take my physical measurements and also checked loft/lie on my current wedges. I've been 2 degrees 'up' for 20+ years but had been advised to not have my wedges adjusted from standard. Lately, I noticed an excessive amount of toe scraping when hitting off mats on par 3 courses so I thought it was still a fair question for the GT fitter. He told me to stick with standard lies. Any thoughts on that readers? RE: GAPPING. When I first set out with my mix of forged/cast Ping wedges my gapping was (roughly) as follows for the first 20-30 rounds: LW-110 SW-120 GW-130 PW-140 I had also recently switched to MP-18's and the PW (much to my surprise) is nuclear. Historically a 135 yard PW player, the new PW was going 142 on average and the loft was not incorrect. On one hand, this helped with my gapping as my Ping Glide (forged) 50 is also magically long. I can play it 125 with a 3/4 swing and up to 135 with a full swing. I was also playing the cast Glide wedges in 54 and 58 degrees. So, now after 30 rounds my 'numbers' roughly go: LW - 105, SW - 113, GW - 125/135, PW - 142. I now have a 7-10 yard no-mans land between SW and GW. Anything between 115 and 125 is a 'tweener. I wanted to rectify that. The GT guy did not have any advice for me beyond going with a 60/55/50/PW gapping set-up. And, technically, if I had a 52 degree wedge that would satisfy my 115-125 needs but simultaneously fly in the face of the common advice to have 4-6 degrees between wedges. Yes, of course, I'm making do and find that, pending wind direction, my current set-up is completely workable. Just not ideal. Uptown problems as they say. Also, fwiw, I went from 9000+ spin to 3500 on my cast 58 glide wedge in under 40 rounds. That's crazy spin depreciation. The cast 54 glide wedge lost about 3000 spins as well. Anyone else seeing that much spin loss after so few rounds?

I've been looking to upgrade my iron set, specifically looking to grab P790s. I game a Vokey 48* bent to 47* instead of carrying a set's PW (built around the rest of my wedges 52, 56, 60; all with specific bounces since I play in the NE) since I lost my PW this past fall and ended up finding exactly what I needed for a shaft/wedge combo in a Vokey on eBay for a deal. I'm going to get fitted for my first time, and was wondering if I should consider dumping my new 47* and consider playing the P790 PW (which is I believe 45*) or stick to 5i-9i? Essentially asking if anyone else does this and if there are any pros/cons for not getting a set's PW?

I recently bought a set of z545 irons with Modus 105 Stiffs, but I'm not really sure if they're right for me (might be too stiff). I'd love to get fitted, but I just don't have the time (or the strike consistency) to have that option right now. I'd like to find a way to fit myself in one of the following ways: - Buy a single iron with a similar head in the shafts I'm interested in and testing (most expensive option and not sure if the different heads would skew results) - Buy a shaft pull of each shaft and have them installed in my z545 heads, then compare them with my actual heads (seems like a lot to spend on clubmaker work) - The Idea I'm Most Interested In: trying to find a way to install an interchangeable hosel system (like those on a fitting cart), buy one z545 head, and be able to swap in shaft pulls to try without spending money on removing and installing shafts. Is this possible? I know the Faz-Fit hosel only fits on .370 hosels, but I see demo clubs on ebay all the time with fitting hosels (I just never seem to see the wrench/tool that would allow it to be interchanged as intended). - Any other ideas that someone can suggest... I feel like this would be a good thread for other people to reference because I know I can't be the first one to dream this dream. So, does anyone have any experiences, suggestions, or other comments? I know many will say to get fitted, but I just don't have that time right now and I'm worried about the variation in my swing as I learn the game. Thank you in advance to anyone who can help!