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Hey all, I'm just looking for some help on deciding which shaft option to go for. I had the Tour 65x in my G400 LST, but the crown ended up cracking on me over the winter. Ping was nice enough to replace it with a G410 LST and I thought I'd give the 75x a go. It's been working well, but I've noticed my consistency of strike has gone a bit. I think when they accidentally sent me the 75S they had swing weighted the head with that and no grip and sent it to me at D0. The strike has come back a bit with the swing weight up only a little, probably around D1.5. noticed a drop off in distance even when I do catch it, even though my swing speed has stayed fairly consistent. Anyways, just curious on what some opinions might be of going Ventus Black in the 6x or 7x, or maybe just actually buy some quality lead tape and bring the swing weight up first on my driver. I've noticed that the Ventus has been super popular since it came out. I swing it a touch over 120 and I have no issues getting it in the air or with distance. Swing about 3 or 4 up with a pretty neutral path. I'm really looking to gain some consistency with my strike as I feel my timing is off with the 75g shaft and wonky swing weight. Thought I'd test the waters of the forum before I go shelling out some money. Going to try and get out and test the options too, but this whole virus thing is putting a deeper on that. Thanks a bunch everyone.
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Recently went to TrueSpec and the best driver shaft for me was the "Graphite Design Tour AD TSG Blue 65 X". I was told this was a shaft that's proprietary to TrueSpec and the profile falls between a Tour AD DI and BB. Does anyone know more about the proprietary TrueSpec shaft? Appreciate it
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Got a Ping g410+ this summer and have really liked the forgiveness, but the ball flight is fairly spinny and I seem to be losing yards from my previous driver. I'm looking to experiment around during silly season with a couple shafts to try and knock the spin down and possibly help with strike location (clubhead feels like it lags open if I take an aggressive pass and I end up making contact high on the face, and/or toe). Any recommendations? Been thinking about picking up a Kuro Kage XT, DCXT, or XD to try but not really sure where to begin.
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Please do buy with confidence as I did have a high feedback rating under the old system. Pictures are the indicator of condition, and I try to show anything that could be of concern to the buyer. I’d rather you be in the know than get a surprise. PayPal only please. I ship USPS priority as soon as I can, usually next business day to ship. I ship to CONUS only. Shipping up north has gotten completely out of control for cost, so I regret that it won’t be happening. Add $10 west of the Mississippi as USPS gets their cut. I’m not impatient, but I do try to communicate adequately and timely for us both to know what is happening. Comms by PM please. If you think a price is too high or too low, let me know and we can try to work it out. Package deals appreciated. I am, as always, negotiable within reason. Cannot hold gear, so first to PayPal acquires the item. Due to circumstance, no trades at this time...I am trying to fund a purchase. On to the goods: 1. Accra FX2.0 300H M5...Ping G410H adapter installed...length per pic, plays barely over stock length for a 2H. Nothing wrong with this beauty. Fabulous feeling and performing hybrid shaft. **$150 OBRO** 2. Accra FX 300H M4...Ping G410H adapter installed...length per pic, plays about stock length for a 3H. Can't find a thing wrong with this one. Really a great feeling and performing hybrid shaft. **$150 OBRO** 3. Project X Evenflow Black 85g 6.5...Ping G410 adapter installed...length per pic, built to play stock length for 3W. Again, just about perfect shape. **$125 OBRO**
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I am gaming 716 ap2 with custom shafts. Tour issue amt x100, I want to swap the shafts out with nippon modus3 tour 130x. Will doing that change the swing weight because the AMT shafts get heavier as they get shorter or should everything stay the same or what would need to be done to achieve the desired swing weight im after ? Anyone have any info on changing shafts on the ap2s?
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Hi guys, I've just bought a Callaway Epic sub zero driver head and i'm looking to find a shaft that works for me. I don't have the facilities or money to try new clubs and shafts, which is made worse by being a lefty. Having not had a driver for 3 years i don't have anything else to go off apart from my M2 3 wood which has a Reax 65g x stiff in it and my previous Adams XTD driver had a HD6 red tie stiff. I was wondering if anyone had some recommendations? Swing speed: 105 - 110 Transition: medium/fast
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I just came from a fitting at Club Champion where this shaft showed the best results of the several we tried. When I told the fitter I had never heard of it, he told me, "It's a new shaft for them." Ok, good enough, of course it came out to be one of the premium higher cost shafts ($90 installed) So last night I wanted to research this shaft and find out some things about it. Lo and Behold, what comes up, this thread https://forums.golfwrx.com/discussion/1009613/ns-pro750gh-wrap-tech/p1 from 2014!! WTF...How is 5 years considered a new shaft...ha Then the more I read, it appears this shaft has been "replaced" by the Zelos 7 and 8 shaft, basically fitting the same profile of golfer but just newer technology etc. So, this really made me question the fitting, I can't really dispute the numbers were better than some others we tried, Atmos and SteelFiber among them. But it really through his credibility into doubt for me. So I guess I'm asking, why would a PGA Professional, Master Fitter not know something like that, or worse yet try to deceive me into thinking it's a new model. Also from what I read the Zelos is not only newer, but less expensive and basically performs the same. Thoughts?
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New here guys I need some help I just recently purchased a new driver shaft and this will be the first driver shaft I will have that is Flo true? How does the flo work and how is it positioned I understand that it's pretty much spine alignment but how do I use the FLO to give my self the supposed added benefit of a Flo true shaft? Does the spine face the target direction ? Please someone help explain. The shaft I bought is a new tour ad VR 6x. Please need the knowledge Thanks in advance
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New here guys I need some help I just recently purchased a new driver shaft and this will be the first driver shaft I will have that is Flo true? How does the flo work and how is it positioned I understand that it's pretty much spine alignment but how do I use the FLO to give my self the supposed added benefit of a Flo true shaft? Does the spine face the target direction ? Please someone help explain. The shaft I bought is a new tour ad VR 6x. Please need the knowledge Thanks in advance
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Going in for a fitting at Sea Island in a few weeks. Would love some insight for driver shafts to try out while there that would promote a low-launch low-spin fade. Currently gaming an Atmos Black TS 6X in a TS3 which has been great relative to older shafts over the past season but definitely a bit too light for me. For reference I'm a bit of a larger build (6'4" 245) with a smoothish tempo and moderate transition but getting club head speed between 110-115 depending on the day. Love to hear some anti-left shaft suggestions to try! Cheers -J
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Currently gaming a set of MP20 MB 5-PW with the modus 105X shaft. I love how it feels in the long irons, but definitely lose control in the scoring clubs. My ss with a 7 iron is about 92-94Mph consistently, so I definitely could use some extra weight in the scoring irons but want to keep the lighter feel as they get longer (hence the switch). My question is has anybody used both shafts, or is anybody a fan of the AMT line? Any comparison between the two?
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Hi, currently playing a attas g7 counter balance driver shaft and I love it. So I wanted to try one in my 3 hybrid. I have a shim to make the shaft fit but I have no idea how much to tip it. I think a 3 wood head is around 200grams and my hubrid is 240. So how much do I tip to make up the 40 grams. Any help would be great. NICK
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- club-building
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Hello - I'm interested in upgrading my putter shafts but definitely don't have the means for the BGT Stability shaft line. I saw that KBS CT Tours are out in both .355 and .370 - at $40, I figure why not give them a try. I want to try them in my Byron Morgan, Scotty, Betti, and T.P. Mills putters that have plumber's necks. What size tip should I order for these manufacturers? Thanks, SJ
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Hi guys, are there any counter balanced hybrid shafts about? Im looking to keep my hybrid the same length but knock a few sw points off. Currently at d5. Thanks in advance ?
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Anyone have experience with these two shafts side-by-side? I've got a Kuro Kage XD TX tipped .5" currently and love it. But, given the buzz surrounding the Ventus I can't help but wonder. Curious if anyone's hit them together and see much of a difference in numbers?
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Hey all, does anybody have experience with the PING AWT iron shafts? My S55 irons have just been replaced with Iblades on warranty (paint defect) and they didn't have my shaft specifications in the X-stiff ping CFS, so I opted for the other option (ping AWT X-flex). Has anybody tried these shafts? what kind of difference should I expect? I'm not much of a shaft head so I thought I may as well avoid the added charge of a non-ping shaft and give the AWT a try. Thanks!
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I am relatively new to club building, just doing it out of my garage for myself and neighbors. I have seen some videos that would epoxy ferrules and some that just slide or force them on. What is the general consensus on whether or not you need to epoxy the ferrules. Thanks!
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I replaced the 85g hybrid shaft with a 108g DG SL x100. The 85g felt too light. Anyone have any feedback or insights?
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Hi all, Last spring I bought a Cobra F9 10.5* (turned down to 9.5) with the Evenflow White T1100 60g 6.5 shaft. This was to replace a Titleist 915D3 9.5* with the Diamana White 70X. While 2019 was my best season of golf ever (made my club's tournament team, handicap down to 0.3, etc) the driving game has still left a lot to be desired. Driving as always been a weaker part of my game and probably doesn't squash my wish to tinker. I didn't get fit for the F9 (I know, I know...), but the initial honeymoon went well, Accuracy and Distance seemed on par with the 915D3. Didn't feel like an up-grade, more of a side-grade. My fairway-finder swing is fine with the current set up. However when I try to get after one and bomb it, it feels like the shaft makes it very hard to time and feel/control the face. Unless I hit it a little high on the toe, it feels short and spinny (even out of the true middle). My normal ball flight has always been a 5-10yd fade and the current setup has been sending several shots drawing/hooking left. Swing speed around 2 years ago was 113-114 and carry distance was ~270. That carry distance is basically the same today so I assume I'm still around 113-114mph. I've been looking at the Atmos TourSpec Black 7X and the 70g version of the Evenflow White to compete against the 60g Evenflow. I'm mainly looking at these since they can be picked up somewhat cheap from Cobra. Would either of these shafts be better than the other at generating even lower spin/launch? Would either of these shafts behave/feel similarly to the Diamana White 70X? Any other suggestions or ideas out there? Thanks!
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question 1: i hear alot about tipping a shaft or a lengthening a shaft. My question is what if you have a 45" driver and the length is perfect, but you wanted it just a slightly more stiff. would it be ok to tip a shaft lets say around 1.5" or 2" and at the same time add an extension to lengthen it to the same amount of inches that was tipped in order to keep the same length. or would it be useless and it will mess with the performance too much and will cancel out the desired flex change.? question 2: what if i reshaft a fairway wood with another shaft, and then decide to go back to the original way it was. would it matter what position the adapter is glued on back to the shaft? question 3: what if there is a crack on graphite shaft? does it mean its unplayable? and if it is playable is there a way to keep it from causing more damage to the shaft, for example, like putting super glue on the crack, or a strip of strong tape. question 4: what is hot melt? does it benefit the performance of the club in any way? Question 5: tiger-stepping shafts, if i were trying to put a iron as one of my wedges to play at regular or regular+ flex, and I play x-stiff shafts, which iron should i use to get to that desired flex or the close it ? Question 6: is there negative effects for the shaft to be continuously pulled and reshafted? question 7: any negative effects when it comes to bending to change lofts and then rebending (LAST opinionated QUESTION: do you think that Reed cheated ?) plz help, my eyes hurt from all the research but i cant seem to find the right answers
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Hello I hope I am posting this in the right place. I built my first set of clubs and I need some help with the labels. I have standard skinny band (not tour issue) X100s installed and I got the shafts and a sheet of stickers from a local shop. Is there a specific place on the shaft I am supposed to put the stickers? Do they get placed at a specific distance away from the grips or lined up in some way? I want to get it right in case I ever decide to sell them. Thank you for the help.
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Hi Everyone, long time reader, first time posting.. I was recently at a GolfTec and was able to see my numbers for the first time since purchasing new irons. I am a scratch golfer who played college a few years back. I have always relied on my ball striking to score well, and have been having a tough time feeling good with my new irons, even when hit well/playing well. In terms of a question, I am wondering if any of you who are experienced tinkerers/number guys could help fill me in on my numbers below. I was recently fitted into a set of Taylormade p760s with modus 120x shafts (3-P), 1 degree flat, 0.5 degree weak. I love the iron heads but I am having a tough time feeling comfortable with these shafts. (previously using 714 ap2s with DG TI AMT X100, 3-P) The 8 iron was not a great strike, 7 and 6 felt solid, but shortish compared to my old irons when playing outdoors. Flight seems a bit high when playing outdoor or outdoor practicing. Compared to my ball speed, launch, spin etc, do you think these shafts are working effectively for me.. or perhaps any recommendations on which number/potential shaft options I could look into. Thanks so much for any feedback! (carry distances) 8 iron 7 iron 6 iron ballspeed 110 119 125 launch 23 22 18 height 38 43 41 spin 7974 7047 5999 distance 150 167 186 Didn't have a photo for club head speed but 6 iron was 88-91.
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I recently got fitted for irons and was talking to a guy at the golf shop who mentioned that the shafts in wedges were usually sub par. I was curious if anyone here has swapped their stock shafts in their wedges for an after market shaft or did a fitting in that regards and if it was a big difference or not?
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I've got the G400 LST driver with a Kuro Kage XD TX. I love the shaft and thought I'd love it in my 3-wood. Turns out, I don't. It's a fairly stout low-launching, lower spinning shaft. It's just too much for me, I guess, to get any kind of consistent performance out of it. The G400 fairways are supposed to be extremely easy to hit but with this shaft, it's not. It's a liability right now and I'm looking for something to replace it. Who's got a G400 fairway and what shaft are you using? Preferably something that won't break the bank but I'll likely be selling my XD soon, so I'll have a little to spend on the replacement.
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