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How adjustable drivers actually work. Everyone should be required to watch this to be allowed to pos


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Only when you open the face by twisting the grip in your hand - and it's not really the effective loft that changes in that case (effective loft is the loft when the face is square, not open or closed

I already answered those questions, but let me try again. When I was referring to the grip not changing the club specs, I meant that to include anything and everything you might do at address. Static

Watch this video instead and see if it helps.https://youtu.be/tKPY51evEh0

So let me know if I got this straight.

[u]Adjustable driver:[/u]
Soled to a 0* square position every time = adjustment changes the loft up or down

Soled as it lays, any adjustment = no effect on loft but changes face angle

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[quote name='Night train' timestamp='1410983679' post='10134185']
..............so I'm not really crazy after all


Every adjustable driver I've owned I prefered hitting in the stock configuration
[/quote]

Right there with you, adjusted from standard always played poorly for me. I'd go from liking a club to hating its feel with a small adjustment

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[quote name='erock9174' timestamp='1410985161' post='10134441']
So let me know if I got this straight.

[u]Adjustable driver:[/u]
Soled to a 0* square position every time = adjustment changes the loft up or down

Soled as it lays, any adjustment = no effect on loft but changes face angle
[/quote]

Absolutely correct, but in both cases the lie angle does also change with the change in the hosel device for any of the adj hosel drivers.

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Tom,

I prefer to look at an open face, therefore I choose a higher loft in order to open the face and lower the loft…Am I on the right track??? Thanks for the great video.

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[quote name='Sean2' timestamp='1410988976' post='10135111']
Isn't that the gentleman Kadin is teaching?
[/quote]Oh my freind you have it a little backwards. Tom is the master and I am the student :)

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I'm actually growing tired of these wishon adjustable driver threads.....I can change shafts whenever, and easily, who gives a f***. I'm a ho.

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As a "shaft-toid" all I use adjustable drivers for is to quickly change shafts.

I also hook open face drivers and slice closed face drivers so all this adjustment crap doesn't work for me.

Give me a square face driver and I will put it down there in the middle of the fairway.

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I too just prefer a glue in....never had a problem with drivers the way they were....you just can't find any anymore....I too usually go for more loft and then open face turning the loft down......

On square or open face drivers I never touch the adjustment.....

Always kinda thought adjustable hosels were a waste of time

Just make drivers square or closed in designated lofts

Or like wishon has done...soft neck that's bendable

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Thank you Tom for taking that HUMONGOUS thread we all participated in and putting it in a simple 20 min video. Now we no longer have to try to get people to spend a day and a half reading through that thing to understand how these clubs are designed to work with various golfers. As a player who started out squaring the face at address, I always knew how the new adjustable drivers worked. The problem was relating this to those who DO NOT square the face. Tom is spot on with every aspect of adjustable woods with this video.

I agree..... PIN THIS BABY!!!!

BT

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F6 5-7 @ 17.5 - Aldila RIP Beta 80 S @ 41.5"
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Epic Flash Heavenwood 19* - Aldila RIP Phenom 80 S @ 42" 
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Thanks for the concise explanation that can be used for easy reference

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Why dont adjustable drivers come with grips where the grip is marked all around the club (just like the adjustable hosel is marked) so that gripping around it would automatically build the grip around the square face angle? Why not just teach golfers to build their grip around the marking on the grip rather than holding the face visually square and trying to grip around it? Holding a face square visually probably causes more parallax errors that sets up the golfer for failure (by gripping stronger or weaker without knowing it) even before they have swung the club. Hope this makes sense to someone here.

 

Form example put the same marking as the sleeve below onto the grip that comes with the driver? So a 12 position hosel would need 12 markings on the grip to line up and they could be run down first 6" of the grip so golfer could correctly grip around it.

 

$_35.JPG

 

And put the matching markings on the grip

 

Cleveland_CG_Velvet_Golf_Grip.jpg

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[quote name='TomWishon' timestamp='1410988298' post='10135027']
[quote name='erock9174' timestamp='1410985161' post='10134441']
So let me know if I got this straight.

[u]Adjustable driver:[/u]
Soled to a 0* square position every time = adjustment changes the loft up or down

Soled as it lays, any adjustment = no effect on loft but changes face angle
[/quote]

Absolutely correct, but in both cases the lie angle does also change with the change in the hosel device for any of the adj hosel drivers.
[/quote]

That actually makes sense and, when I pictured it in my head, that's always what I assumed was going on.

Now what happens when we throw in a sole plate like the R11/R11S? In this case do we actually have access to all 3 variables in a single adjustable club? On the surface, it would certainly appear to be the case, although, perhaps, not in the exact manner that TM advertises it? IIRC, TM advertises the sole plate as what changes the face angle, wouldn't the sole plate change the loft (and conversely, the hosel would change the face angle, not the loft)? In picturing what would happen to the measurements of my driver in a Mitchell machine when making the aforementioned modifications, the converse to TM's advertising makes a lot more sense.

As if I'm not confusing the situation enough already... It seems that Tour Edge Exotics is being even more/less confusing about what their adjustments are doing. I have to ask however, how are they getting a "loft" adjustment while still disclosing what's going on w/the face angle?

[attachment=2423739:XCG7-Beta.png]

Then there is Titleist with their Sure-Fit adapter (see the [url="http://www.titleist.com/golf-clubs/913-performance-guide/"]Performance Guide[/url]). What's the meaning of the * on their "grid"? I can't seem to find it on their website. Are they actually disclosing the exact phenomenon that Tom so clearly explained in the documentation included with the club?

[attachment=2423745:Titleist.png]

Great video Tom! Thanks for going to the effort to put it together.

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[quote name='rebby' timestamp='1411015894' post='10138319']
Then there is Titleist with their Sure-Fit adapter (see the [url="http://www.titleist.com/golf-clubs/913-performance-guide/"]Performance Guide[/url]). What's the meaning of the * on their "grid"? I can't seem to find it on their website. Are they actually disclosing the exact phenomenon that Tom so clearly explained in the documentation included with the club?

[attachment=2423745:Titleist.png]
[/quote] [size=4]The star used to denote effective loft (I have an old book and that what it says at the bottom), so loft when the face angle is square, so pretty much exactly what Mr. Wishon was explaining.[/size]
[size=4]Great video Tom! Thanks for going to the effort to put it together.[/size]

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bending/adjusting the hosel fore an aft changes face angle AND loft, maybe not by the technical definition but in relative terms in comparison to it's previous face orientation. and not just because the face angle change affects effective loft when squared.

if the lie angle was 90 deg bending the hosel fore or aft would result in a loft change only. and of course, if the lie angle was zero the fore/aft bend would change the face angle only. up/down bending only affects lie in either case.

because our lie angles are between 90 and zero the fore/aft bend changes both in similar amounts. with a right handed club, if you bend the hosel forward the face will point more left and more up than it did previously.

this is true for irons and woods or pretty much any object you mount on the end of a stick that's held at a near to 45 degree angle to the ground and then bend the bottom of the stick. but for some reason the golf club industry treats woods and irons differently because one likes to sit on the ground in a certain way.

in my opinion driver loft should be measured like an iron, with the shaft clamped at the lie angle and neutral shaft lean. then the golfer can compare apples to apples. if you have 2 10 degree "loft" drivers one with an open face and one closed they will play as 2 different lofts, assuming the reason for selecting an open or closed face driver was to promote a square face at impact.

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Great video, great information. for myself, I have been a ball flight and trajectory
kind of player. Regardless of how the modern adjustable drivers are set up. All in
all, the adjustable drivers are fine, but like everything else, there are limits.



Play Golf.....Play Blades......Play Something Else.....Just Go Play.....

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Vin

As far as grip alignment. Many people were taught to grip the club with the grip aligned in their hands in a specific way. The old Golf Pride Green Victory grip was a favorite of teachers for this reason.

Somebody mentioned old wooden club tricks. One was to align the crown decals a few degrees off for optical reasons. Many aligned the decal (especially the longer face to heel ones) so shifting it a few degrees would cause them to align the face different as their eyes saw the decal.

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[quote name='Albatross85' timestamp='1410973470' post='10133105']
[media=]http://youtu.be/aj5KOk2oXU0[/media]
[/quote]

My thought has always been that specifications on a club were based on a machine swinging from a fixed, consistant position. I know that the way I swing the club is different than the machine and nearly all of you. My best results from adjusting my R1 came from adding impact paper to the face and hitting balls and adjusting all aspects until I reached a point of where I was more consistant in hitting the sweet spot. The settings I've settled on have been a surprise but my contact has improved my driving.

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