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Naval Jelly to Raw a wedge


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Sorry if this is in the wrong spot. I've got some SM6's, the Jet Black finish. I used them for a half season and they are showing some wear on the black. I wanted to strip that and make them a raw finish. I've heard Naval Jelly is a good way to go. Has anyone done this that has the process or tips for me? Any help is appreciated. Thank you.

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  • 1 month later...

From what I've read Naval Jelly works... but you have to apply the product evenly and can lead to inconsistent results. Smells like a** too! For best results use CLR or distilled white vinegar. Put the wedges in a small bucket and fill with either product to completely cover the wedge. I've used vinegar, soak for 1-2 hours, rinse, scrub with the grain using a green scotch bright pad, and repeat. Also, after the soak, I've had good success using #3 steel wool and following with #00 steel wool. This gave my wedges a more homogenous look. Patience is virtue!!!

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Get a liter of Coke and leave it overnight with the clubhead completely immersed. I do that to all my black finish wedges. They look amazing in the morning!

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I used CLR as mentioned above to take a set of black Vokey SM6 wedges down to raw. It worked very well.

 

http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/1435520-sm6-wedges/


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I used my vinegar recommendation this afternoon on four brand new SM6 Raw Black wedges and the whole process took 2 hours from start to end. Here is my step by step process that I've found works best...

 

1. Completely clean the wedge heads and wipe down with denatured alcohol to remove any residue

2. In a bucket, place the wedge/wedges in side and fill to the ferrule with distilled white vinegar

3. Start a timer for 1 hour

4. After the first hour, remove the wedge from the vinegar and rinse under water, towel dry

5. I'd recommend wear some shop or latex gloves for the next step... using a green Scotch-Brite pad scrub the wedge with the grain. This won't take long pretty quick process

6. Wipe down again with alcohol to remove any residue

7. Put back in the same vinegar for 1/2 hour

8. Rinse under water again and towel dry

9. Scotch-Brite scrub again and follow up with 00 steel wool (if you want but not necessary)

10. Re-shine the ferrule with acetone and a cotton cloth

 

The final product for me is very consistent throughout and is identical to the raw Vokeys that have been built for me by Aaron Dill on the PGA Tour Titleist Tour Truck. I've seen other raw wedge finishes but they had been tumbled to a dull shiny finish. Below is a pic of my 58M from today. As you can see all paint fill is PERFECTLY intact!

 

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TS3 9.5º - UST LinQ Purple 6F5     TS3 16.5º - UST LinQ Purple 7F5     818 H2 21º - UST Recoil Proto Hybrid 85F5 
T200 #4-5 (1º Weak) & T100 #6-9 - Modus 120X 
SM8 Raw   46.10F   50.12F @ 51º   56.12D.  60.08M Modus 120X
2020 Special Select Newport 2 - 34.5"

 

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Navel Jelly, white vinegar, secret sauce... means nothing. You are trying to remove a PVD coating.

 

Get some masking tape, cover two or three inches of the bottom of the shaft and the ferrel. Take your wedge and $20 to your local machine, automotive, cnc, etc. shop and have them bead blast your head. That is the correct way to remove the PVD, and it won't look like you hit it with a wool pad, regardless of if you went with the grain. You can request different bead for different result. Glass, silica, etc.

 

 

Edit: Blasting will also clean up some of the imperfections, as well. For instance, I took a beat-to-death Cleveland Classic 1, blasted, and cerekoted. Pretty much took out all the nicks and dings.

 

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Navel Jelly, white vinegar, secret sauce... means nothing. You are trying to remove a PVD coating.

 

Get some masking tape, cover two or three inches of the bottom of the shaft and the ferrel. Take your wedge and $20 to your local machine, automotive, cnc, etc. shop and have them bead blast your head. That is the correct way to remove the PVD, and it won't look like you hit it with a wool pad, regardless of if you went with the grain. You can request different bead for different result. Glass, silica, etc.

 

 

Edit: Blasting will also clean up some of the imperfections, as well. For instance, I took a beat-to-death Cleveland Classic 1, blasted, and cerekoted. Pretty much took out all the nicks and dings.

 

 

 

Uh you do realize the post above you shows wedges that came out great using easy to find items. I've raw'd out at least 6 different black ox or oil can Vokeys the only one that was a huge pita was the black ion tvd finish

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I've tried everything. Fastest easiest method for me is to use toilet bowl cleaner. I just use The Works brand from the dollar store.

 

Buy a thin narrow container at the dollar store and soak the heads for a minute. If doing this with the shafts on be careful not to submerge the ferrule.

 

Be careful, use gloves etc. Stuff is powerful.

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Navel Jelly, white vinegar, secret sauce... means nothing. You are trying to remove a PVD coating.

 

Get some masking tape, cover two or three inches of the bottom of the shaft and the ferrel. Take your wedge and $20 to your local machine, automotive, cnc, etc. shop and have them bead blast your head. That is the correct way to remove the PVD, and it won't look like you hit it with a wool pad, regardless of if you went with the grain. You can request different bead for different result. Glass, silica, etc.

 

 

Edit: Blasting will also clean up some of the imperfections, as well. For instance, I took a beat-to-death Cleveland Classic 1, blasted, and cerekoted. Pretty much took out all the nicks and dings.

 

Photo_2017-03-01_09-06-51_PM_zpsyrkg3niz.png

 

FYI... the finish on the SM6 Raw Black wedges is a QPQ, quench/polish/quench. The SM5 Jet was also a QPQ but a deeper Black which resulted in a darker rawer look. Our processes to remove the black color works great and give the results that raw wedge users are looking for and will rust over time. Bead or sand blasting the heads will just result in a lighter finish, remove all paint fill, and potentially rust faster... not to mention more expensive for the extra process and having to repaint if desired.

TS3 9.5º - UST LinQ Purple 6F5     TS3 16.5º - UST LinQ Purple 7F5     818 H2 21º - UST Recoil Proto Hybrid 85F5 
T200 #4-5 (1º Weak) & T100 #6-9 - Modus 120X 
SM8 Raw   46.10F   50.12F @ 51º   56.12D.  60.08M Modus 120X
2020 Special Select Newport 2 - 34.5"

 

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Updated pics of my finished project... Vokey SM6 Raw Black with the Vinegar Works! ZERO paint loss and the exact RAW finish I was looking for. Just used a green ScotchBrite pad after a 1 hour soak in vinegar (twice)

 

 

 

 

 

 

TS3 9.5º - UST LinQ Purple 6F5     TS3 16.5º - UST LinQ Purple 7F5     818 H2 21º - UST Recoil Proto Hybrid 85F5 
T200 #4-5 (1º Weak) & T100 #6-9 - Modus 120X 
SM8 Raw   46.10F   50.12F @ 51º   56.12D.  60.08M Modus 120X
2020 Special Select Newport 2 - 34.5"

 

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Nice work, Sam


PING G410 LST 9* - Diamana Ltd Dialead S+ 60X
Callaway Mavrik 15* - Diamana Ltd Dialead D+ 70X
Callaway Apex 18* - Diamana S+ 80X
PXG 0311T 4-P - DGTI AMT S400
Titleist SM7 50, 56, 60 - DGTI S400
Spider X Chalk
Titleist Pro-V1 Yellow

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Very informative. Thanks for posting this . As with everything, we have choices so this let's us make up our own minds as which avenue to follow.

 

I like the vinegar soak process myself and the results it produced.

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  • 1 month later...

Yah I used vinegar on my RTX 3s. Worked like a charm to remove the Tour raw finish.

 

They're rusting up quite nicely now.

 

Only took about 20min to get finish off. I just green frog Taper the ferrule and submerged head into vinegar

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I just did five of them within the last month using naval jelly and fine steel wool to remove the black finish, followed by 400 grit sandpaper to give them the right look. Start to finish for each wedge when using naval jelly is around 30 minutes, which is why I prefer that over other techniques.

 

Now swapping out the paint fill is another story...

 

 

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Kleenstrip Etch and Prep from Home Depot will take off the black finish faster than vinegar and it's way safer than using that toilet bowl cleaner stuff which is really nasty stuff.

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  • 10 months later...

No

Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver 60S
Cobra (Lexi blue) F7 5 wood w/Aldila Rogue Black 70S
Cobra (Lexi blue) F7 Hybrid w/Aldila Kuro Kage 80S
Ping G410 irons w/Recoil 95S
Ping Glide 55/60 wedges w/Recoil 110S
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Any tips on if this works for chrome finish? What would work best for the chrome finish to make them raw?

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Any tips on if this works for chrome finish? What would work best for the chrome finish to make them raw?

 

You have to strip the chrome before you can do any of things you are reading above

 

Yeah I figured as much. Any tips on doing that at home or is that not doable?

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Why not just buy them like that? I have black sm5's and would never dream of doing that to them. I mean they look nice and but why buy black wedges and then strip off the black? Just doesn't make sense to me, thats all.

 

Because it’s easy, economic, and a lot less hassle than custom ordering a wedge from someone like Vokey with a raw finish.

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I dont recommend doing this at home unless ur home is a factory

 

Good to know, thanks!

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