Help understanding True Temper Dynamic Gold Shafts High Launch R300 Regular Flex

csn99 · May 22, 2017

I currently use King Cobra Oversize irons II they are from 2000 and have regular graphite shafts in them. They were given to me and have treated me well. I hit my 7 iron close to 165 with them, but recently everything is left 10-15 yard draw and very high. I can buy a set of AP1 710s for $200 with True Temper Dynamic Gold Shafts - High Launch R300

Regular Flex shafts in them. My swing speed is around 85 with a 7 iron. Will the True Temper Shafts work for me? Just a little bit about my golf game, I play to a 12 handicap, I am 18 and this is my third summer playing.

Howard_Jones · May 23, 2017

I currently use King Cobra Oversize irons II they are from 2000 and have regular graphite shafts in them. They were given to me and have treated me well. I hit my 7 iron close to 165 with them, but recently everything is left 10-15 yard draw and very high. I can buy a set of AP1 710s for $200 with True Temper Dynamic Gold Shafts - High Launch R300
Regular Flex shafts in them. My swing speed is around 85 with a 7 iron. Will the True Temper Shafts work for me? Just a little bit about my golf game, I play to a 12 handicap, I am 18 and this is my third summer playing.

The most important parameter in a shaft after play length is shaft WEIGHT, so thats the question really, do you fit to play this shaft weight?

csn99 · May 23, 2017

I currently use King Cobra Oversize irons II they are from 2000 and have regular graphite shafts in them. They were given to me and have treated me well. I hit my 7 iron close to 165 with them, but recently everything is left 10-15 yard draw and very high. I can buy a set of AP1 710s for $200 with True Temper Dynamic Gold Shafts - High Launch R300
Regular Flex shafts in them. My swing speed is around 85 with a 7 iron. Will the True Temper Shafts work for me? Just a little bit about my golf game, I play to a 12 handicap, I am 18 and this is my third summer playing.

The most important parameter in a shaft after play length is shaft WEIGHT, so thats the question really, do you fit to play this shaft weight?

is weight more important then flex?

paperclip · May 24, 2017

The answer is probably, without seeing your swing or your existing cobras. Generally, missing high left draw means you would need a stiffer shaft, I would think that even a reg flex steel would be better for you than a light graphite.

In terms of shaft weight, I used to play the DGHL in Titleist 755's but in stiff as that is what Titleist fitted me to and they have served me very well. Btw, True Temper no longer makes the DGHL shafts but says their current XP115 would be a close match.

Therefore, because of your swing speed (7 iron = 165), I think you could handle the heavier shaft (assuming to be approx. 115 grams which will tend to hit the ball a little lower), you might lose a couple of yards as well (so what, probably less than 5) but you should have tigher dispersion. I would go for it and you can always swap out the shafts for a better fit later if you need to.

Howard_Jones · May 25, 2017

I currently use King Cobra Oversize irons II they are from 2000 and have regular graphite shafts in them. They were given to me and have treated me well. I hit my 7 iron close to 165 with them, but recently everything is left 10-15 yard draw and very high. I can buy a set of AP1 710s for $200 with True Temper Dynamic Gold Shafts - High Launch R300
Regular Flex shafts in them. My swing speed is around 85 with a 7 iron. Will the True Temper Shafts work for me? Just a little bit about my golf game, I play to a 12 handicap, I am 18 and this is my third summer playing.

The most important parameter in a shaft after play length is shaft WEIGHT, so thats the question really, do you fit to play this shaft weight?

is weight more important then flex?

Yes it is, its the weight of the club we move in the swing, NOT flex.

In steel shafts, flex tend to follow weight, and there is no standards for flex letters, so a heavy steel shaft with the label R is most often stiffer than a lighter steel shaft with the label S. The labels ONLY tells where that shaft belong in its own family of shafts, nothing else, not even within the same shaft company they mean anything else. If you compared True Temper XP 95 S with the same XP 115 R, you would see that 115 R was the strongest.

In this example XP 95 S measure 297 CPM while XP 115 R measure 300, so R flex is stronger than S in this compare, and its all because of shaft weight, (thicker steel = stronger when profile is the same)

You comes from a graphite shaft, i have no clue about its weight, but you have to figure out what shaft weight that fits you, thats where it all starts. and then you can look on flex options in that weight range.

dmeeksDC · June 24, 2017

Howard, do you have the CPM results on the XP115 line? Wondering what the stiff and x come in at? Thanks

Jagpilotohio · June 24, 2017

I was a club pro in the 90's and I hit basically everything back then. I've hit that stock grey cobra "regular" graphite shaft from the late 90's. It's pretty darn soft. I feel certain the r300 HL will play firmer.

Second part of the equation however, as Howard mentioned, is weight. That R300 is going to be AT LEAST 25 grams heavier than that old cobra graphite, which, I'm making an educated guess again,....is around 90-100 grams.

Going up 25+ grams in a shaft after so many years with the lighter one may likely be a change you do not want to make. They will feel wildly different.

I d personally say you should be looking for something a bit stiffer In the 100-110 gram range so the change is less severe. Modus 105 stiff are a wonderful feeling mid launch, not overly firm shaft if you want to spend a bit more $$. Just a suggestion.

All That said....for $200 on the set you could just give them a try. If you hate them you can unload them without much loss to speak of.