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Epoxy amount when adapter's installed (regarding broken lightweight x-stiff shaft tip)


sigbang
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I broke a shaft, Project X pxv 39 6.5 flex (39g) w/ Callaway XR16, around the tip. My SS is around 100 mph and I hit 5 shots after reshafting without any abuse and every shot was made around the sweet spot of the face.

I looked at the inside of the hosel and I could see the level of epoxy was about 1.5" (filled up to the middle of ferrule)

I wonder whether this amount of the epoxy is used for the normal installation of the adapter. If the excessive amount of epoxy can affect the swing weight or bending force to the shaft? How much epoxy amount do you use when you install a shaft? I have check Youtube, but some guys suggest to fill the epoxy enough and the others use only minimum amount of epoxy to cover the surface of the shaft tip.

 

This is second time to break lightweight x-stiff shaft. The first one was Aldila NV44 Magnum TX (48g) on Titleist 917 D3. Is it possible to break those x-stiff shafts with my SS? (I don't think so...) Last time when I had the same issue with Magnum, some ppl said it can be happened with several heel shots, but I never hit that spot with both shafts.

 

 

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No that amount of epoxy wouldn't be normal and not a lot is needed. But if it doesn't come all the way up to the point where the break occurred, that has nothing to do with the breakage or really much effect on the performance.

 

Are you basing your assessment of the contact location just by feel or are you using impact tape or foot powder spray to really know where impact was?

 

Might also want to look carefully at how you store your clubs - particularly in the back or trunk of a car.

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A 39 gram shaft is ultralight. A shaft with such thin walls will be prone to breakage almost by definition unless it's made from some super material of some sort.

 

The amount of epoxy showing is a little excessive but it didn't have any affect on the breakage as Stuart states. When installing shafts I always error on the generous side when applying epoxy. Coat both the ID of the hosel and the OD of the shaft. The amount of epoxy pushing up the inside of the shaft relates to how much you put inside the hosel so maybe scale back just a tiny bit.

Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver 60S
Cobra (Lexi blue) F7 4 wood w/Aldila Rogue Black 70S
Cobra (Lexi blue) F7 Hybrid w/Aldila Kuro Kage 80S
Mizuno JPX 929 Hot Metal w/Nippon 950S
Ping Glide 55/60 wedges w/Recoil 110S
Ping Anser - the "real deal!"

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A 39 gram shaft is ultralight. A shaft with such thin walls will be prone to breakage almost by definition unless it's made from some super material of some sort.

 

The amount of epoxy showing is a little excessive but it didn't have any affect on the breakage as Stuart states. When installing shafts I always error on the generous side when applying epoxy. Coat both the ID of the hosel and the OD of the shaft. The amount of epoxy pushing up the inside of the shaft relates to how much you put inside the hosel so maybe scale back just a tiny bit.

 

Those shaft walls in the broken tip look butt section thin- wow

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No that amount of epoxy wouldn't be normal and not a lot is needed. But if it doesn't come all the way up to the point where the break occurred, that has nothing to do with the breakage or really much effect on the performance.

 

Are you basing your assessment of the contact location just by feel or are you using impact tape or foot powder spray to really know where impact was?

 

Might also want to look carefully at how you store your clubs - particularly in the back or trunk of a car.

 

Without spay I can sell where I hit right away since the dirty range ball remains the stain on the face in every shot. Also, I can tell by ball flight. If slightly off-centered hit matters, then it also doesn't make sense. I don't think even Tour players can't hit the sweet spot every time.

I bring my bag by car and sometimes I store the bag for a while. But I have never broken >60g shafts.

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A 39 gram shaft is ultralight. A shaft with such thin walls will be prone to breakage almost by definition unless it's made from some super material of some sort.

 

The amount of epoxy showing is a little excessive but it didn't have any affect on the breakage as Stuart states. When installing shafts I always error on the generous side when applying epoxy. Coat both the ID of the hosel and the OD of the shaft. The amount of epoxy pushing up the inside of the shaft relates to how much you put inside the hosel so maybe scale back just a tiny bit.

 

If True Temper makes 6.5 flex shaft for SS >100 mph and it is broken at that speed, who should use the shaft?

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A 39 gram shaft is ultralight. A shaft with such thin walls will be prone to breakage almost by definition unless it's made from some super material of some sort.

 

The amount of epoxy showing is a little excessive but it didn't have any affect on the breakage as Stuart states. When installing shafts I always error on the generous side when applying epoxy. Coat both the ID of the hosel and the OD of the shaft. The amount of epoxy pushing up the inside of the shaft relates to how much you put inside the hosel so maybe scale back just a tiny bit.

 

If True Temper makes 6.5 flex shaft for SS >100 mph and it is broken at that speed, who should use the shaft?

 

The PXv in general over the entire range actually plays really light (not quite a mid flex by any means). I've got a PXv Tour 72' in 6.5 flex and it's much boardier than the 53' and 39' versions, but still not quite a true X flex... I swing between 105-108mph and find this shaft to be just a hair firm, but it makes for very very stable and straight but slightly shorter shots compared to my RIP A-60 S flex. I'd probably be happier tipping a RIP A-60 S, but I do really enjoy the balance/kick-point of this shaft and it's stability. Typically the trade-off.

 

As previously stated the Epoxy wasn't the issue. I work with the Titleist adapters, and frankly when bonding a shaft to anything be it the club or an adapter, but there's nothing wrong with being a little generous... Just means more to wipe up.

 

The key is just getting surface area and no air-pockets or gaps in the epoxy between the bonding surfaces.

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Do you lean on your driver when you tee up the ball? You might not even realize you're doing it, but I've seen guys break multiple sub-50 gram shafts because they were doing exactly that.

2017 M1 460 9.5* Tensei Pro Orange or M1 440 10.5* HZRDUS T1100
2016 M1 3HL PXv Tour or SLDR Mini 16* 8M3
Adams Red 20* Altus Tour
JPX 900 Forged 4, 5 and Tour 6-PW Super Peening Blue
MP-T7 50*, 55* Super Peening Blue
MP-S5 60* DG TI Onyx
Ghost Tour Black Daytona

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I just broke my driver shaft in the same spot but almost flush with the adapter. It was a 67g shaft and snapped after I hit one out of the heel. I have been swinging at it pretty hard lately, maybe around 110. I have made worse swings on the ball than that particular one but I guess it was time for it to go.

 

I am a little sad as I was just starting to get along with that shaft but now I get to ho again so its all good I guess.

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Tip prepping is also very important on ultra light shafts, due to the wall thickness.

Callaway Rogue sub zero 9* w/PX hzrdus yellow 75X
Callaway Rogue sub zero 13.5* w/PX hzrdus yellow 85X
Callaway X forged 18 3,4,5 iron PX 6.5
Callaway Apex mb 18 6-PW  PX 6.5
Callaway MD 4 52* S grind, Callaway MD 4 58* S grind
Callaway PM 2.0 64*
Ping Sigma Tyne 33”

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Was it a pull? I've actually broken a shaft with a puller when the nut on the end of it seized and didn't allow the pad that pushes the head off spin freely. It basically applied too much pressure to the side. I wonder if something similar happened but only damaged the shaft?

 

It was a pulled one. I think the prepping was not good enough as Mizguy mentioned.

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