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Can anyone recommend a good swing weight scale? I don't want to spend a mountain of money but I'd like to have a swing weight scale at my house so I can dial in swing weights on my clubs. Anyone have any experience with one they'd recommend?

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917F2 15* Diamana LTD Blue 80TX
816H1 19* MRC Tensei Blue 80X
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Cameron 009 SSS 350

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I'm partial to Kenneth Smith scales. They are built like a tank and will last virtually indefinitely as long as you don't abuse them. They show up on ebay all the time at various price points depending on cosmetic condition. Be aware that the "official golf club balance" model uses a 12" balance point and requires a conversion chart to read conventional swingweight point scale, whereas the other models use the more tradition 14" fulcrum point and read in normal swingweight points.

Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver 60S
Cobra (Lexi blue) F7 5 wood w/Aldila Rogue Black 70S
Cobra (Lexi blue) F7 Hybrid w/Aldila Kuro Kage 80S
Ping G410 irons w/Recoil 95S
Ping Glide 55/60 wedges w/Recoil 110S
Ping Anser/Arna putter - the "real deal!"

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I have that one ... but I don't trust it at all as I cannot calibrate it. I am SURE it is off by a point or two from an absolute numeric standpoint. But it's good enough to at least tell me that the delta from club A to B to C is the same amount. I had to find the numeric starting point by feel anyway.

 

In other words, on this scale I think* my driver is D4, but it may in reality be D2 or D6 for all I know. But I at least know when I build a driver, I like the feel to be about where this scale claims D4. And on up through the set.

 

Point being, by a good scale you can calibrate to an absolute, or buy a cheap scale and be prepared to do lots of trial and error to get a 'feel' and then rely on it only for delta measurements, no absolute. Same with loft and lie really. Club building isn't hard ... but club measuring to a good standard can be quite expensive.

[size=2][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]Mizuno MP-650 8.5[/font]°[font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]- Fubuki alpha 73s, D4[/font][/size]
[size=2][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]TEE CB5 16.5[/font]° - Kai'li 73s, D5[/size]
[size=2][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]TEE CB2 21[/font]° - Fubuki tour 73s, D6
[font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]Mizuno [/font][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]MP-32 4-P [/font][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]- [/font][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]PX 5.5[/font][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif], [/font][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]D6 - D9[/font]
[font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]Mizuno [/font][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]MP-T 51.07[/font]°[font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]- [/font][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]PX 5.5[/font][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif], [/font][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]D9.5[/font]
[font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]Titleist SM 56.08[/font]°[font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]- [/font][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]PX 5.5[/font][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif], [/font][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]E0[/font][/size]
[size=2][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]Sonartec t35 60.09[/font][/size][size=2]° [/size][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif][size=2]- PX 5.5 E0.5[/size][/font]
[size=2][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]CAN'T PUTT WITH ANYTHING[/font][/size]
[size=2][font=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]Bridgestone B330 RX[/font][/size]

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I have that one ... but I don't trust it at all as I cannot calibrate it. I am SURE it is off by a point or two from an absolute numeric standpoint. But it's good enough to at least tell me that the delta from club A to B to C is the same amount. I had to find the numeric starting point by feel anyway.

 

In other words, on this scale I think* my driver is D4, but it may in reality be D2 or D6 for all I know. But I at least know when I build a driver, I like the feel to be about where this scale claims D4. And on up through the set.

 

Point being, by a good scale you can calibrate to an absolute, or buy a cheap scale and be prepared to do lots of trial and error to get a 'feel' and then rely on it only for delta measurements, no absolute. Same with loft and lie really. Club building isn't hard ... but club measuring to a good standard can be quite expensive.

It can be calibrated. I have one. if you call Golfworks they will ask you to send it back. But they also can send you some info on calibration. There is a weight in the butt end that pulls out with the plastic cap. You can place some lead tape either on the front tip or on the butt end if needed. Yours likely has some lead tape underneath on either end. or they cut some of the weight on the butt end cap.

 

I still don't trust mine. I made one from Dave Tutleman's design, I am believing that it is accurate. When I place a calibrated weight on the GW scale, it still does not balance out to the exact weight.

Woods: Callaway Rogue Sub Zero 8*, Fujikura Ventus 6 S, TM M5, 13*, MC Diamana Thump 75S

Hybrids: TEE CBX 119, 19* & 22*, KBS Tour Hybrid Prototype 85 S+

Irons: TM M6, 5-PW, Accra 80i

Wedges: Cleveland CBX 2, 50*, 55* & 60*, Accra 80i

Putter: Evnroll ER1.2, 355g, KBS CT Tour, 33”, SS Mid-slim 2.0

Ball: Maxfli Tour

Bag/Cart: '20 Nike Air Hybrid/BagBoy Quad XL

Accessories: SkyCaddie SX400/Nikon Coolshot Pro Stabilized

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Swingweight scales are notoriously out of calibration. A friend from the board here took a club all over town having it checked on different swingweight scales at different golf shops and each scale read a little different.

 

There are online calculators that can be used to calculate swingweight based on total weight and balance point, but the problem is the ability to accurately measure balance point. I went through this with my friend and it took a lot of time and different trials before I was confident the measurement was correct. A certified linear scale was used to measure from the butt end of the shaft to the balance point, and the balance point checked and rechecked to assure it was correct. I did this on one specific club and put it aside as my "master" club which I use each time I check a new scale.

Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver 60S
Cobra (Lexi blue) F7 5 wood w/Aldila Rogue Black 70S
Cobra (Lexi blue) F7 Hybrid w/Aldila Kuro Kage 80S
Ping G410 irons w/Recoil 95S
Ping Glide 55/60 wedges w/Recoil 110S
Ping Anser/Arna putter - the "real deal!"

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I'm partial to Kenneth Smith scales. They are built like a tank and will last virtually indefinitely as long as you don't abuse them. They show up on ebay all the time at various price points depending on cosmetic condition. Be aware that the "official golf club balance" model uses a 12" balance point and requires a conversion chart to read conventional swingweight point scale, whereas the other models use the more tradition 14" fulcrum point and read in normal swingweight points.

 

They are getting hard to find as the company has been closed for over 20 years. I have had the Prorythmic (14 inch) model for about 30 years and you are right - take care of it and they will last a lifetime. Plus they are accurate.

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