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Driving 4 iron vs. Iron set 4 iron


yung-gun710
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Many switch to a DI / distance model, to get a bit more out of their 4-iron. Often it is for more consistency in the form of forgiveness, head-size, playability. This can be lead to more yardage, lower/higher height, more or less spin. Always depends on the users needs.

 

I'm currently thinking of swapping my 4 & 5 irons for primarily more height & forgiveness. I love blades in 6-P but sometimes the 4/5 are quite demanding. Only the 945's brilliant VT sole + perfect head size have halted my swap.

 

Sometime to consider is many are turned off from DI style in the 4/5 iron because they have too much offset. Primary reason a lot of guys play blade/PC style irons is the minimal offset, I think this gets forgotten far too often.




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The only thing that matters is the purpose it serves... My irons go from 4-pw, I hit my 4 iron about 230. I have a hybrid and a driving iron both with around 18 degrees of loft that I interchange based on the course. I carry the hybrid a bit farther but the DI gives me a lower flight and more roll. The hybrid launches high rainbows and the DI hits stinging bullets that stay lower and run. Then there are times I'll pull the 4 iron to add another wedge, but I can hit a trapped draw with the 5 almost as far as my 4 or I can take some off the hybrid to get the 4 iron yardage if needed. I can see having the DI and the hybrid in the bag together at times even...

 

It's all about the role the club plays and not so much about what it looks like on paper, or what the set looks like. I have had 2 3 woods in my bag before. A 13 degree for 1 particular tee shot on 1 hole on the course, and my normal 3 wood for all other 3 wood duties...

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Brand doesn't matter to me at all, play the best club for your set composition

Driver: Ping G410 LST (Diamana ZF)
5w:  Titleist TS2 (Ventus Blue)
3H: Titleist 818 H2 (Ventus Blue HB)
or 3i: Cobra King Utility 21* (Tour AD DI)
4-P: PXG 0311T (KBS $-Taper)
Wedges: 51* Edel TRP, 55* Edel DVR, 60* Cally MD5
Putter: PXG Mini Gunboat H

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I love my utility so far as my 4i replacement much more than the hybrid. Flys more like an iron. The hybrid was just too much. Seems like it could go for miles and would balloon at times with the 4H loft. I'm even thinking of trying another utility to replace my 5i. The 3H setting is a lot lower and the distance control is better for me and my particular club. Everything reacts differently though with each person.

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I think it is more about confidence. I don't see much of a difference in distance between two similarly lofted irons, regardless of which one has been dipped in Hi-COR nuke sauce...blah, blah. To me, it is actually more fun to hit the set matching long iron as I have found the accuracy to be better versus slinging around some graphite-shafted chubby head.

Cobra Speedzone/HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 6.5

Titleist Ts2 16/Elements Wind 8f5

Srixon u85 20/Recoil 95

Srixon z785 4-pw/Dynamic Gold s400

Cleveland Rtx4 50, 54, 60/Dynamic Gold s400

Bettinardi Studio Stock #8

Srixon Z Star XV

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Thanks for all the input so far! The reason for this subject is I am ordering srixon z765 irons which I was able to hit and fit for, but unable to swing the u65 DI. Trying to decide on either ordering the 4-pw 765 or 5-pw + u65 4 iron. Would be ordering with all the same shaft (no graphite shaft in u65).

 

I have a 21 degree hybrid that I will be knocking down to 20 regardless, but just want to have good gaping. I know the 765 4 iron is 22 degrees while the u65 is 23.

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I played an Adams DHY (24°) for my 4 iron spot for a few years. I liked that it was easier to get in the air and I felt a lot more confident on longer Par 3's. After I while, I realized that I think it had more to do with the graphite shaft than the clubhead itself. It gave me the "feel" of a hybrid, but appearance of an iron. I wanted to move back to a more traditional 4 iron and got one that matched my set (JPX 850 Forged) and installed an Aerotech Steelfibre shaft and love it, it's been about 8 months.

 

So to answer your question, I've done both at certain points and combined the methods I used previously.


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I carry DI 21 and 24 degrees. Overall distance is similar to the irons they replaced. They just get there differently. The DI's launch higher with a bit more ball speed, but also a bit more spin. Overall they carry further and stop faster.

You didn't plan to fail, you failed to plan!

SIM/9*/UST Elements Platinum
M5/15*/Kai'li 70s//M5/19*/Kai'li 70s
Titleist u500 3/Recoil Hybrid Proto 100 f4

SUB 70 649 MB Raw 4-PW/Recoil Proto 110 f4
Mizuno t20 Raw 51*/56*/61*/KBS Tour 120 s
Bastain Milled BM-009 Long Neck Proto
 

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Thanks for all the input so far! The reason for this subject is I am ordering srixon z765 irons which I was able to hit and fit for, but unable to swing the u65 DI. Trying to decide on either ordering the 4-pw 765 or 5-pw + u65 4 iron. Would be ordering with all the same shaft (no graphite shaft in u65).

 

I have a 21 degree hybrid that I will be knocking down to 20 regardless, but just want to have good gaping. I know the 765 4 iron is 22 degrees while the u65 is 23.

 

I have the 765's and while I wouldn't say the long irons are difficult to hit I would say no doubt the u65 will be easier to elevate and more forgiving. I just built an 18 degree dynacraft driving iron with a kiyoshi white prototype shaft as an experiment and it's awesome, the construction is the same as the u65, hollow (though the head only cost 13 bucks).

 

My suggestion would be go for the u65 4 iron, then get numbers and gap you're clubs then bend them accordingly. Or spend 13 bucks at Hireko golf on a Dynacraft DI head and build it with a pulled hybrid shaft off of ebay... It's a way cheaper experiment, and in my case I can't see getting much better results than what I'm getting with the Dynacraft. It's actually way easier to hit off the turf than I thought as well.

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I use a 3 and 4 driving iron. They are both bent 1-2 degrees week to minimize offset. At my home course we have 2 holes that require precise tee shots with irons and 2 others where hitting irons is usually smart depending on the pins. For me the driving irons are great off the tee and offer a similar flight to my five and six irons. If they weren't bent weak they might cause a gapping problem. They stop just fine for the lofts they are...basically just like a normal 3 or 4 iron, if not a little better.

 

The biggest advantage I've seen from them is that they are much more forgiving and easier to hit high than my set 3 and 4 irons and they inspire more confidence when you really want to go after a shot. The biggest disadvantage is on punch shots and keeping the ball low.

 

If you're going to go the driving iron route I'd recommend getting shafts similar to what is in your irons. Mine are not exactly the same as my current irons but they are similar in weight and flight. I tried the driving irons previously with graphite shafts' lightweight steep and it was a tougher transition from my heavy steel shafted irons.

D - G410 LST - ADXC 6
5 Wood - Ping G400 - Ping Tour 85

7 Wood - Ping G410 - Ping Tour 65

4 - Tour Edge Exotics CB Pro H - Project X
5 - PW - MG CB 1008 - KBS Tour V 120
50 - Ping Anser - DG S400
55 - Vokey TVD K - DG S200
59 - NCW - DG S200

Lajosi Sensor WB SS - Stability Tour

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I use a Tour Edge Exotics CB ProH 3 iron that I had reshafted with a Steelfiber I95. The stock shaft was too light so in this setup it is primarily a driving iron but I also us it in place of a 3 hybrid or 5 wood. Its long and easy to hit. My set of Titleist AP1 712's did not have a 3 iron. The 4 iron is my 180-190 yd club, the TEE is 205-215 yd club. The gap is larger but its acceptable for me.

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I have a dislike for hybrids, like many people on this forum.

 

I've always had a CB style club as my lowest iron in the set. The iron set I've been playing the past couple years is Taylormade 4-PW MB and 3 iron MC.

TM M1 440 2017 - Tensei White 60s - 44.5"

TM M5 15* - Rogue 110 70s - 43"

TEE CBX119 18* - EvenFlow Blue 85s - 41"

MP-32 3-PW (23*-48*) - Nippon SP Blue

SM8 54F - Nippon Modus3 125 Wedge

SM8 60T - Nippon Modus3 125 Wedge

Nike Method 003

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Why not consider the 565 4 iron...

 

This. You are going from mb to crossover...when you could go from mb to cb. Seeme like a logical jump

 

COBRA LTD w. Hzrdus Red
WISHON 919 w. Hzrdus Red
TAYLORMADE Issue Aeroburner w. Tensei Blue
PING G25 w. Tensei Blue
PING I200 w. AWT 2.0
PING Glide 2.0 Stealth
MannKrafted Carbon WB Rattler
Xenon Copper Wide X
SGC 902

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I currently go from Srixon 745 5 iron to U45 4(23deg) utility. I did this based on more forgiveness when im not on my game as I don't get out that much anymore. I can probably hit the 4 iron in the 745 and considered the 545 as a replacement but I was getting the 18 deg U45 anyways so I stuck with it for the 4 iron. the U45 4 iron goes a little further as well which bridges the gap a bit more between the 4 iron spot and 2 iron spot.

 

if you are looking for a little more forgiveness and distance then why not go with the utility really its going to have a steeper decent angle then an iron equivalent and hold more greens. if you are a high ball hitter maybe this is not the case but thats why they make all these different clubs, different folks, different strokes.

Cobra FlyZ+ @ 8.5 deg w/Aldila RIP Alpha X-Stiff tipped 1/2" @ 44.5"
Taylormade 2017 M1 set to 13 deg w/ RBZ TP Aldila RIP Alpha 70X Tipped 1" @ 42.5"
Titleist 909 F2 (18.5deg) Grafalloy Blue (Blue) X Tipped 1.5" @ 41.5"
Srixon Z U45 2 w/ Aldila RIP Alpha 105 X Hybrid shaft @ 39.5"
Srixon Z745 (5-PW) w/ Steelfiber i95X
Callaway MD3 50deg w/ Steelfiber i95X

Callaway MD3 56deg w/ Steelfiber i125S

TM Hi-Toe 60deg w/ Steelfiber i125S
Putter: Odyssey Havok

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