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Scotty Cameron Newport Classic


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I think the rust is so even, it looks quite nice. You’d really kick yourself if the CLR or coke bath took away from the consistency.

 

I think it comes down to your personal preference, if you are okay with the rust- play it. If every time you look at it you think about getting rid of that rust, then it needs a bath!

 

In terms of grips, just don’t go too big- you’ll lose all the feel!

 

I’m not a big rust guy, but I agree it’s nice and consistent. Almost looks like an aftermarket antique finish.

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Easy job. It's a Carbon Steel head with no over -finish [ like Laquer or Metal Plating ] so easier to do if you have little experience.

 

If you don't have access to a Dremel and flapwheels, or a grinding machine, take it any good local metalworking shop with a small polishing / grinding set up and ask them to run the rust off with a MEDIUM nylon nylon based polishing wheel then a 1000 grit nylon wheel and then a 2000 grit wheel. Make absolutely sure they protect the shaft as its easy to mark the shaft when trying to de-rust the hosel.

 

You should get back the head looking a little bit like very finely 'satinised' metal. It does not need to be highly polished. Next do your paint infill and I'd guess you could purchase a small brush / small tin of enamel paint and a small bottle of thinners for $10 ? For absolute 'authenticity' go onto the Scotty website and check the Archive for the relevant paint job. You can get metal marking pens that 'paint' as well and these can make life easier.

 

Next make sure you remove ALL excess paint and 'laitence' from the thinners. The best way is using a lint free cloth and some pure acetone [nail varnish remover]. Make sure you do this in a well ventilated area as she will not only find out you've stolen her remover but the smell is quite strong !

 

To 'Black' the putter the layman's way is to 'cold' black it. This is a form of metal oxidisation and used widely on Guns etc., Birchwood Casey make a 'Gun Blue' product - about $12 for a small bottle - and you want the gel one as its much easier to apply. As you start applying the metal will discolour Blue/Black and then black as you apply more. To get a consistent finish you need to work the gel in. Wipe all excess off and allow to dry. You can re-apply more gel if you get a ''patchy'' finish.

 

Once completely dry ''polish' up a little with a soft lint free cloth then make yourself an Oil Cloth using a lint free cloth and light organic lubrication oil [ we have ''3 in 1'' here which comes in a small 4 oz. tin] Put the oil onto the cloth and wipe the oil all over the Putter surface. You will get a little black on the cloth but that's fine.

 

Keep the cloth in a small plastic bag in your bag or Car Boot [ trunk ] as you will need it to wipe down the Head after use to keep the finish and assist protection from the elements.

 

You will lose maybe 5 grms from the metal 'stripping' process and as I refiub around 150 + older Scotties a year [ and weigh most before and after ] the above process should not make a huge difference to the head. You will do more to alter the feel / balance of the Putter by cutting the shaft down and / or putting a different grip on it than the above method and if you can tell the difference then you have better feel than 99% of amateur Golfers in my opinion.

 

Hope that helps. It's easier to do than it sounds. I actually use a specially formulated cold blacking system and also flame seal the metal.......as well as some other tricks for longevity but that's another story

 

Best of luck whatever you do.

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Easy job. It's a Carbon Steel head with no over -finish [ like Laquer or Metal Plating ] so easier to do if you have little experience.

 

If you don't have access to a Dremel and flapwheels, or a grinding machine, take it any good local metalworking shop with a small polishing / grinding set up and ask them to run the rust off with a MEDIUM nylon nylon based polishing wheel then a 1000 grit nylon wheel and then a 2000 grit wheel. Make absolutely sure they protect the shaft as its easy to mark the shaft when trying to de-rust the hosel.

 

You should get back the head looking a little bit like very finely 'satinised' metal. It does not need to be highly polished. Next do your paint infill and I'd guess you could purchase a small brush / small tin of enamel paint and a small bottle of thinners for $10 ? For absolute 'authenticity' go onto the Scotty website and check the Archive for the relevant paint job. You can get metal marking pens that 'paint' as well and these can make life easier.

 

Next make sure you remove ALL excess paint and 'laitence' from the thinners. The best way is using a lint free cloth and some pure acetone [nail varnish remover]. Make sure you do this in a well ventilated area as she will not only find out you've stolen her remover but the smell is quite strong !

 

To 'Black' the putter the layman's way is to 'cold' black it. This is a form of metal oxidisation and used widely on Guns etc., Birchwood Casey make a 'Gun Blue' product - about $12 for a small bottle - and you want the gel one as its much easier to apply. As you start applying the metal will discolour Blue/Black and then black as you apply more. To get a consistent finish you need to work the gel in. Wipe all excess off and allow to dry. You can re-apply more gel if you get a ''patchy'' finish.

 

Once completely dry ''polish' up a little with a soft lint free cloth then make yourself an Oil Cloth using a lint free cloth and light organic lubrication oil [ we have ''3 in 1'' here which comes in a small 4 oz. tin] Put the oil onto the cloth and wipe the oil all over the Putter surface. You will get a little black on the cloth but that's fine.

 

Keep the cloth in a small plastic bag in your bag or Car Boot [ trunk ] as you will need it to wipe down the Head after use to keep the finish and assist protection from the elements.

 

You will lose maybe 5 grms from the metal 'stripping' process and as I refiub around 150 + older Scotties a year [ and weigh most before and after ] the above process should not make a huge difference to the head. You will do more to alter the feel / balance of the Putter by cutting the shaft down and / or putting a different grip on it than the above method and if you can tell the difference then you have better feel than 99% of amateur Golfers in my opinion.

 

Hope that helps. It's easier to do than it sounds. I actually use a specially formulated cold blacking system and also flame seal the metal.......as well as some other tricks for longevity but that's another story

 

Best of luck whatever you do.

 

Awesome reply and thanks heaps for that! You are a legend!

 

I have removed the head from the shaft and "bathed" the head in coke and given it a bit if a rub with 0000 steel wool and it has come up pretty good, a few small areas of pitting, but generally pretty good. The worst of the pitting seems to be around the hosel and shaft connection point. Should i still grind/polish it back further to get that "satinised look"?

 

In regards to the oil used after bluing, i have a range to currently choose from; Lanox, Inox, WD-40, Remington oil, G96 and traditional silicone oil. Which would be the best to use or should i used the "3 in 1" oil you suggested?

 

Also, should i paint before or after i blue?

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Paint first.

 

Oil wise I usually use gun oil, but I heat the head a bit to allow the oil to soak in a bit better. You could also get it to a more polished level of a finish and torch it...

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Mizuno MP Fli Hi 23° - C Taper 120
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Scotty Cameron Oil Can Newport 330g 
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Many stressed it I believe but game it for a while first and make sure you love it before investing in the refinish.

 

Beware that grip is a counterbalance grip (130g I think) so that will cause your putter head to feel crazy light. I recommend a grip in the 50-70g range.

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Here are the most up to date pictures of the putter head minus the paint and rust.

I just purchased a new grip to replace the winn grip, the grip master roo featherlite oversize grip. Being Aussie i thought it was a nice touch and is very similar to my current grip on my other scotty, SS mid slim 2.0

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Toss it in the oven at 550F for about 30 minutes, will get a nice dark blue out of it :)

Taylormade Original One Mini 9.5° - DG x100
Mizuno MP Fli Hi 18° - C Taper 125
Mizuno MP Fli Hi 23° - C Taper 120
Srixon z765 5 iron S300
Wilson Staff FG62 6-PW - S300 Hard Stepped
TM HiToe 52°/56°/62° 
Scotty Cameron Oil Can Newport 330g 
2016 RZN Platinum (15 dozen in the garage)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Nice!

Allow that paint to dry and then wipe off the excess. It will look nice.

It's basically "raw" carbon steel now so you will have to oil it all the time to keep it from rusting again. I would have done a gun blue finish on it (like what was described earlier) but you've got it painted now.......

Personally, I prefer to use a food grade or electric grade silicone spray. CRC makes good ones and can be found on eBay. I like them over oils because they dry to the touch and won't pick up grass / fertilizers off the green.

DO NOT use WD40. It has chemicals in it that can eat away the paint that you just spent a bunch of time doing.

Game it well!

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In regards to shafts, what should i use? The one that came with it is not the original shaft and is a piece of sh*t and while the shaft is out i thought i would upgrade and change it at the same time...

 

I realise this head is of the lighter variety (~330g) and would like to get the best feel from it, what shaft would you suggest?

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Might as well have some fun and get a UST FF shaft

Taylormade Original One Mini 9.5° - DG x100
Mizuno MP Fli Hi 18° - C Taper 125
Mizuno MP Fli Hi 23° - C Taper 120
Srixon z765 5 iron S300
Wilson Staff FG62 6-PW - S300 Hard Stepped
TM HiToe 52°/56°/62° 
Scotty Cameron Oil Can Newport 330g 
2016 RZN Platinum (15 dozen in the garage)

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  • 2 months later...

Just thought i would give a little update on the putter, i installed a KBS brushed shaft and played it for a while with only silicone spray and regular wipe downs after rounds and found it started to get small areas of fine rust.

I did not like the look of the rust so sanded it back to remove the dings and nicks and got it sent away to be nickel plated with the brushed look. Here is the result after plating.

I love the look of transluscent blue on the stainless and plated Scotty's so was going to use tamiya x-23 enamel paint on it. What other colours should i use with the transluscent blue on the head? Or should i make all the writing transluscent blue?

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Home run on the nickel plate! Love the idea of tamiya translucent blue on there

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[*][color=#b22222][b][size=4]TP Mills Trad II Hand Forged [/size][/b][/color]
[/list]

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I have a similar project I want to work on over the winter... anybody have any tips on how to get a nice polished look on mine without getting it refinished, I have the same putter but a newport two. I have a dremel tool with an assortment of attachments. anybody have any advise on polishes and attachments to use to get this putter looking better. I bought it off a buddy for really cheap. i'll post some photo's later when I get a chance but any tips on how to get this polished up would be appreciated. Thanks ya'll

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Im pretty happy with it! The trans blue looks amazing! Considering how it looked when i first purchased it!

I will be wearing sunnies when i play, always have and always will. So the shine wont affect me.

I will weigh the head when i get the chance, the head was 332g before i got it nickel plated...

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Well done mate!!

 

happy to see your project come to fruition and that is a lovely old putter. Take TMAC's advice and never go near WD40 again! Get some food or electrical grade silicon and give it a spray and a wipe down after every round and it will see you in good stead. :-)

 

Rob

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