Simulators

[MountainGoat]

I'm moving to a new house shortly, and it's one that will provide me with an empty garage bay in which I can install a simulator. I'm not looking to play digital versions of the great courses of the world. I just want a calibrated driving range that I can use to keep my swing in sync over the winter and do my geeky golf club testing.

 

I know there is a whole forum devoted to this topic (golfsimulatorforum.com), and I know there are several long threads on the topic here. I promise to read all of that before I begin.

 

I'd just like to know from those of you who have done it -- what's the biggest lesson you learned? Are there things you'd absolutely do differently if you could start all over?

 

Thanks!

[JLP_GOLF]

I'm in the same boat as you. We are building a new house and close within a month. Literally all i care about is a simulator that can read club path and face data. The most affordable one i found was the Flightscope xi tour (guy quoted me $7,500). They have financing too. Really tempting!!!!

[moadhia]

I had one for a while. Don't rule out playing sim golf . Practicing on a simulated range gets boring after a while.

The biggest lesson I learnt was buying a high quality Mat, like divot action . Your elbows are going to thank you in the long run

[Linkkingx]

Yeah the mat is key. I have a divot action but at some point will probably replace it with a fiberbuilt. The only downside to fiberbuilt is putting off of it but I find I use auto putt when playing sim golf anyway.

[PowerCobra98]

I've got a SkyTrak and it's excellent for driving range, target practice, bag mapping, wedge grids, and club compares. I don't have any of the simulator course subscriptions because I don't really want to play fake golf. SkyTrak is relatively affordable too and it's been worth every single penny I paid...and I paid full price because I didn't want to wait for a sale. As mentioned getting a good mat is the key. The first mat I had destroyed my elbow and it's still not healed all the way. The mat I have now is great and I'm tempted to buy another just as a spare in case something happens to it.

[gumgator]

I have a full simulator room. Flightscope with the e6 software. I think my Flightscope was 4K, the e6 was 1,700, the computer about 1k, 5x10 real feel mat at $600, used par2pro for screens and enclosure, another 1k. Mine is 9.5’ tall and 12’ Wide. Works perfect. Don’t skimp on launch monitor or projector or hitting mat. You can have a professional system for under 10k doing it yourself. I spent 6 months learning at golfsimulator forum before I built. Would absolutely do it again.

[nikuk]

I've got a SkyTrak and it's excellent for driving range, target practice, bag mapping, wedge grids, and club compares. I don't have any of the simulator course subscriptions because I don't really want to play fake golf. SkyTrak is relatively affordable too and it's been worth every single penny I paid...and I paid full price because I didn't want to wait for a sale. As mentioned getting a good mat is the key. The first mat I had destroyed my elbow and it's still not healed all the way. The mat I have now is great and I'm tempted to buy another just as a spare in case something happens to it.

so what mat are you on now?

[Yrrdead]

That the superbays kits are a decent option.

 

That my diy eyes are bigger than my diy stomach.

 

That no matter how good I think I am I will still hit indoor shanks because I don't have a full cage....yet

[nikuk]

I put together a full cage with $20 of PVC conduit and $80 of Harbor Freight mesh tarps (grometted netting). 9.5' high, 12' wide, 8' deep.

[Poser]

I had a nice setup in our unifnished basement at last location. When we bought a new house I had a room unifinished I assumed would fit the simulator and it didn't turn out well. I've made a place work in our bonus room but, it's not using the projector or anything cause of limited space. Just make sure you build a big enough room with high enough ceilings. I've already got plans for a garage with a room over the top for the simulator. I'm using a gc2 which I find is the best bang for the buck and doesn't have the required long space as a flightscope or a trackman.

[sdrthedj]

I'm moving to a new house shortly, and it's one that will provide me with an empty garage bay in which I can install a simulator. I'm not looking to play digital versions of the great courses of the world. I just want a calibrated driving range that I can use to keep my swing in sync over the winter and do my geeky golf club testing.

 

I know there is a whole forum devoted to this topic (golfsimulatorforum.com), and I know there are several long threads on the topic here. I promise to read all of that before I begin.

 

I'd just like to know from those of you who have done it -- what's the biggest lesson you learned? Are there things you'd absolutely do differently if you could start all over?

 

Thanks!

 

Biggest lesson(s) I learned?

 

Spend a bit of extra money to do it right the first time.

Make sure you buy an hitting insert, or mat system that is forgiving to prevent injury (Fiberbuilt, Trustrike, Divot Action)

A little DIY, think assembling a simple cage from conduit, is easy and will save a lot of money

 

 

If club testing is big, I would lean toward GC2, and second would be skytrak. Lots of opinions on the subject. Get something that directly measures ball parameters. Indoors, photo systems work a little easier and you need less space.

 

I love my simulator. I thought I would only use it for driving range.....now I play on the OGT sim tour and it's 10 times as much fun.

[MountainGoat]

Having now read a zillion posts about simulators and all of the advertising for the various models, I sense that that a critical issue is aspect ratio. Let me explain.

 

I'll probably go with a Skytrak, because a GC2 is simply cost-prohibitive. You can send the signal to either an iPad/iPhone or a PC. If I send the signal to my iPad Air 2, I'm going to get a 4:3 result, because that's the aspect ratio of the pad. If I send that signal to a projector via, say, an Apple TV unit, it's still going to be 4:3. But, using an iPad limits my sim possibilities, because most of those products run on a PC.

 

If I send the Skytrak signal to a PC, then I'll get a 16:9 output, won't I? If so, how is the video being handled? Is it taking a native 4:3 image and stretching it to 16:9, or is it adding detail to the edges to create a broader image? The other possibility is that the native output of the Skytrak is 16:9 and that it's either squishing it for 4:3 display or cutting off the edges.

 

Does anyone have insight on this?

[PorscheFan]

Yeah the mat is key. I have a divot action but at some point will probably replace it with a fiberbuilt. The only downside to fiberbuilt is putting off of it but I find I use auto putt when playing sim golf anyway.

 

What don't you like about Divotaction, or what are you hoping Fiberbuilt would provide in addition?

[nikuk]

Having now read a zillion posts about simulators and all of the advertising for the various models, I sense that that a critical issue is aspect ratio. Let me explain.

 

I'll probably go with a Skytrak, because a GC2 is simply cost-prohibitive. You can send the signal to either an iPad/iPhone or a PC. If I send the signal to my iPad Air 2, I'm going to get a 4:3 result, because that's the aspect ratio of the pad. If I send that signal to a projector via, say, an Apple TV unit, it's still going to be 4:3. But, using an iPad limits my sim possibilities, because most of those products run on a PC.

 

If I send the Skytrak signal to a PC, then I'll get a 16:9 output, won't I? If so, how is the video being handled? Is it taking a native 4:3 image and stretching it to 16:9, or is it adding detail to the edges to create a broader image? The other possibility is that the native output of the Skytrak is 16:9 and that it's either squishing it for 4:3 display or cutting off the edges.

 

Does anyone have insight on this?

I have a skytrak.

What?

It will display whatever aspect ratio your hardware uses.

I have it in a sim setup in my garage with a PC & projector. The PC monitor is 16:9 & I have the projector set to 4:3 (it can do 16:9, but 4:3 maximizes the screen space). Skytrak interface shows fine on both. It's a program, itll do display as the hardware makes it.

[MountainGoat]

Having now read a zillion posts about simulators and all of the advertising for the various models, I sense that that a critical issue is aspect ratio. Let me explain.

 

I'll probably go with a Skytrak, because a GC2 is simply cost-prohibitive. You can send the signal to either an iPad/iPhone or a PC. If I send the signal to my iPad Air 2, I'm going to get a 4:3 result, because that's the aspect ratio of the pad. If I send that signal to a projector via, say, an Apple TV unit, it's still going to be 4:3. But, using an iPad limits my sim possibilities, because most of those products run on a PC.

 

If I send the Skytrak signal to a PC, then I'll get a 16:9 output, won't I? If so, how is the video being handled? Is it taking a native 4:3 image and stretching it to 16:9, or is it adding detail to the edges to create a broader image? The other possibility is that the native output of the Skytrak is 16:9 and that it's either squishing it for 4:3 display or cutting off the edges.

 

Does anyone have insight on this?

I have a skytrak.

What?

It will display whatever aspect ratio your hardware uses.

I have it in a sim setup in my garage with a PC & projector. The PC monitor is 16:9 & I have the projector set to 4:3 (it can do 16:9, but 4:3 maximizes the screen space). Skytrak interface shows fine on both. It's a program, itll do display as the hardware makes it.

 

What size is your screen?

[PorscheFan]

Having now read a zillion posts about simulators and all of the advertising for the various models, I sense that that a critical issue is aspect ratio. Let me explain.

 

I'll probably go with a Skytrak, because a GC2 is simply cost-prohibitive. You can send the signal to either an iPad/iPhone or a PC. If I send the signal to my iPad Air 2, I'm going to get a 4:3 result, because that's the aspect ratio of the pad. If I send that signal to a projector via, say, an Apple TV unit, it's still going to be 4:3. But, using an iPad limits my sim possibilities, because most of those products run on a PC.

 

If I send the Skytrak signal to a PC, then I'll get a 16:9 output, won't I? If so, how is the video being handled? Is it taking a native 4:3 image and stretching it to 16:9, or is it adding detail to the edges to create a broader image? The other possibility is that the native output of the Skytrak is 16:9 and that it's either squishing it for 4:3 display or cutting off the edges.

 

Does anyone have insight on this?

 

Not a complete answer, but you can no doubt set it up the way you want it, and it'll probably be an acceptable compromise.

 

E.g. I have a 4:3 screen and I project everything to fit that screen, regardless of source. I prefer that setup because a widescreen setup would have been impossibly wide for my basement if it was still going to be an 8-9ft high image.

 

If you look at most videos of sim setups, they're 4:3, but here's a video that shows different SkyTrak setups in both aspect ratios:

 

[nikuk]

Having now read a zillion posts about simulators and all of the advertising for the various models, I sense that that a critical issue is aspect ratio. Let me explain.

 

I'll probably go with a Skytrak, because a GC2 is simply cost-prohibitive. You can send the signal to either an iPad/iPhone or a PC. If I send the signal to my iPad Air 2, I'm going to get a 4:3 result, because that's the aspect ratio of the pad. If I send that signal to a projector via, say, an Apple TV unit, it's still going to be 4:3. But, using an iPad limits my sim possibilities, because most of those products run on a PC.

 

If I send the Skytrak signal to a PC, then I'll get a 16:9 output, won't I? If so, how is the video being handled? Is it taking a native 4:3 image and stretching it to 16:9, or is it adding detail to the edges to create a broader image? The other possibility is that the native output of the Skytrak is 16:9 and that it's either squishing it for 4:3 display or cutting off the edges.

 

Does anyone have insight on this?

I have a skytrak.

What?

It will display whatever aspect ratio your hardware uses.

I have it in a sim setup in my garage with a PC & projector. The PC monitor is 16:9 & I have the projector set to 4:3 (it can do 16:9, but 4:3 maximizes the screen space). Skytrak interface shows fine on both. It's a program, itll do display as the hardware makes it.

 

What size is your screen?

the impact screen is 10'x8'

 

It doesnt "squish" or convert anything... it displays it at the resolution you choose. I run 1600x1200 and it looks great.

[MountainGoat]

Having now read a zillion posts about simulators and all of the advertising for the various models, I sense that that a critical issue is aspect ratio. Let me explain.

 

I'll probably go with a Skytrak, because a GC2 is simply cost-prohibitive. You can send the signal to either an iPad/iPhone or a PC. If I send the signal to my iPad Air 2, I'm going to get a 4:3 result, because that's the aspect ratio of the pad. If I send that signal to a projector via, say, an Apple TV unit, it's still going to be 4:3. But, using an iPad limits my sim possibilities, because most of those products run on a PC.

 

If I send the Skytrak signal to a PC, then I'll get a 16:9 output, won't I? If so, how is the video being handled? Is it taking a native 4:3 image and stretching it to 16:9, or is it adding detail to the edges to create a broader image? The other possibility is that the native output of the Skytrak is 16:9 and that it's either squishing it for 4:3 display or cutting off the edges.

 

Does anyone have insight on this?

 

Not a complete answer, but you can no doubt set it up the way you want it, and it'll probably be an acceptable compromise.

 

E.g. I have a 4:3 screen and I project everything to fit that screen, regardless of source. I prefer that setup because a widescreen setup would have been impossibly wide for my basement if it was still going to be an 8-9ft high image.

 

If you look at most videos of sim setups, they're 4:3, but here's a video that shows different SkyTrak setups in both aspect ratios:

 

[media=]

[/media]

 

Thanks. That video just shows one setup, which looks 4:3 to my eyes. I think the only way to actually figure this out is to get a 16:9 (HD) projector and broadcast the image on a wall to see what aspect ratio looks natural. I was hoping to just get a lower cost 4:3 projector, but those seem to be hopelessly out of fashion.

[nikuk]

Having now read a zillion posts about simulators and all of the advertising for the various models, I sense that that a critical issue is aspect ratio. Let me explain.

 

I'll probably go with a Skytrak, because a GC2 is simply cost-prohibitive. You can send the signal to either an iPad/iPhone or a PC. If I send the signal to my iPad Air 2, I'm going to get a 4:3 result, because that's the aspect ratio of the pad. If I send that signal to a projector via, say, an Apple TV unit, it's still going to be 4:3. But, using an iPad limits my sim possibilities, because most of those products run on a PC.

 

If I send the Skytrak signal to a PC, then I'll get a 16:9 output, won't I? If so, how is the video being handled? Is it taking a native 4:3 image and stretching it to 16:9, or is it adding detail to the edges to create a broader image? The other possibility is that the native output of the Skytrak is 16:9 and that it's either squishing it for 4:3 display or cutting off the edges.

 

Does anyone have insight on this?

 

Not a complete answer, but you can no doubt set it up the way you want it, and it'll probably be an acceptable compromise.

 

E.g. I have a 4:3 screen and I project everything to fit that screen, regardless of source. I prefer that setup because a widescreen setup would have been impossibly wide for my basement if it was still going to be an 8-9ft high image.

 

If you look at most videos of sim setups, they're 4:3, but here's a video that shows different SkyTrak setups in both aspect ratios:

 

[media=]

[/media]

 

Thanks. That video just shows one setup, which looks 4:3 to my eyes. I think the only way to actually figure this out is to get a 16:9 (HD) projector and broadcast the image on a wall to see what aspect ratio looks natural. I was hoping to just get a lower cost 4:3 projector, but those seem to be hopelessly out of fashion.

most projectors can do many aspect ratios and resolutions. You need to sort out the throw ratio / distance to screen that you need though.

 

I run this one, it does everything that I need and is capable of common HD resolutions and can run 4:3 16:9 and 2.35:1. $600 on amazon.

 

https://www.projectorcentral.com/BenQ-MW632ST-projection-calculator-pro.htm

[MountainGoat]

most projectors can do many aspect ratios and resolutions. You need to sort out the throw ratio / distance to screen that you need though.

 

I run this one, it does everything that I need and is capable of common HD resolutions and can run 4:3 16:9 and 2.35:1. $600 on amazon.

 

https://www.projecto...culator-pro.htm

 

That's actually not a true 16:9 (1920 x 1080) HD projector. Although it can broadcast in a number of formats, its native output is 1280 x 800, which is WXGA (16:10). It stretches or compacts the image to fill the available space.

[Stuart_G]

To figure out what you'll see on the screen with a PC, you actually have to consider the 3 different 'parts' of the display/rendering process.

 

1) The software that's generating the image.

2) The OS Display settings controlling the graphics hardware/drivers

3) The display hardware (whether a monitor or projector).

 

For the most part (now at least), they will work together fairly well to give the best results based on the limitations of those different parts so most of the time little user intervention is needed but there is no guarantees that that will always be the case. But you'll usually get the best results if you make sure the display settings match the aspect ratio that you want to come out of the display hardware (assuming it supports that).

[MountainGoat]

To figure out what you'll see on the screen with a PC, you actually have to consider the 3 different 'parts' of the display/rendering process.

 

1) The software that's generating the image.

2) The OS Display settings controlling the graphics hardware/drivers

3) The display hardware (whether a monitor or projector).

 

For the most part (now at least), they will work together fairly well to give the best results based on the limitations of those different parts so most of the time little user intervention is needed but there is no guarantees that that will always be the case. But you'll usually get the best results if you make sure the display settings match the aspect ratio that you want to come out of the display hardware (assuming it supports that).

 

Yeah, that's the way I'm thinking about it. Setting up this system is a lot like the system I built for iRacing. The PC requirements are very similar, particularly the emphasis on a high-quality graphics card. Aspect ratio played a big part in that system, because you want the view out the car window to look as natural as possible. Any distortion of the image adversely affects your sense of the road. In fact, on the iRacing forum, people debated long and hard about the best video arrangement. It was a very hot topic.

 

The critical first step is to know your #1 item -- the native resolution of the software that's controlling the image... in this case, SkyTrak. This turns out to be a hard number to learn. I can't find it anywhere in the manual. When you ask the question, people just say "it's anything you want it to be", which isn't true. The graphics are written at a certain native resolution aspect ratio. You can massage the aspect ratio via the OS display setting and display itself, but you're always better off if you can keep it the same throughout the whole signal chain.

 

Hence, if the native resolution of SkyTrak is version of 16:9, then you'd want an HD projector. If it's 4:3 or 16:10, then you'd want a projector that handled those aspect ratios without any internal image manipulation. My sense so far, is that for sim golf in general and SkyTrak in particular, it's a 4:3 world, but I don't know that for sure.

[Stuart_G]

The critical first step is to know your #1 item -- the native resolution of the software that's controlling the image... in this case, SkyTrak. This turns out to be a hard number to learn. I can't find it anywhere in the manual. When you ask the question, people just say "it's anything you want it to be", which isn't true. The graphics are written at a certain native resolution aspect ratio. You can massage the aspect ratio via the OS display setting and display itself, but you're always better off if you can keep it the same throughout the whole signal chain.

 

Hence, if the native resolution of SkyTrak is version of 16:9, then you'd want an HD projector. If it's 4:3 or 16:10, then you'd want a projector that handled those aspect ratios without any internal image manipulation. My sense so far, is that for sim golf in general and SkyTrak in particular, it's a 4:3 world, but I don't know that for sure.

 

Don't know if it's the case for the SkyTrack software (keep in mind that other software like TGC or JNPG or e6 can also be used with ST) but the 'better' software will actually detect the hardware settings and adapt whatever those settings might be. The ones that can't is where the OS has to come in and provide some type of conversion which could result in either clipping or distortion. Or some software can actually change the display settings, in which case the display device has to take over that conversion - although that was more common in the old DOS games.

[sdrthedj]

The most immersive is a 16:10 setup. I have a 12’ screen. I run JNPG and run it at 1680x1050.

 

I use a short throw 1080p projector. Not quite Full HD, but a 16:10 projector is expensive.

[MountainGoat]

The most immersive is a 16:10 setup. I have a 12' screen. I run JNPG and run it at 1680x1050.

 

I use a short throw 1080p projector. Not quite Full HD, but a 16:10 projector is expensive.

 

I can't get comfortable with the projector situation, even with help of the golf sim forum and ProjectorCentral.com. Pretty clearly, the world has gone to HD projectors. There aren't many short throw 4:3 or 16:10 projectors available anymore. BenQ has a MX631ST that's 4:3 (1024 x 768) and a MW632ST that's 16:10 (1280 x 800), but that's pretty much it. So, it seems to me that what you might have to buy is a short throw HD projector and adapt it for 4:3 or 16:10 use. A lot of people have cited the BenQ W1080ST, but it's no longer in production. The HT2150ST seems to be the contemporary replacement. I also hear about people using the Optima GT1080Darbee, which is ultra-short throw. I think the principle advantage of this projector is that the throw is so short, you can mount it on the floor. The others probably need to be mounted overhead.

[Tekray]

I use the Optima GT1080 mounted overhead. I think your stressing too much about everything matching exactly. Projector is just showing what I put in. I run my simulator computer at 1400x1050 for a 4:3 image. I could also set the pc to run at 16:10 or 16:9. The only time the picture is distorted is if I set the pc to run 16:9 the then force a different resolution like 4:3 via the projector settings, then the image is squished a bit horizontally.

[MountainGoat]

I use the Optima GT1080 mounted overhead. I think your stressing too much about everything matching exactly. Projector is just showing what I put in. I run my simulator computer at 1400x1050 for a 4:3 image. I could also set the pc to run at 16:10 or 16:9. The only time the picture is distorted is if I set the pc to run 16:9 the then force a different resolution like 4:3 via the projector settings, then the image is squished a bit horizontally.

 

Yes, you're probably right, but I tend to think with the end in mind. A person running a Skytrak with WGC in 4:3 mode would have a different requirement for screen size than someone running a GC2 with TGC, which is optimized for 16:9. If you're intending to run at 4:3, then you can get by with a lower cost XGA projector. If you target 16:9, then you're looking at a somewhat more expensive HD projector. Fortunately, the cost of HD gaming projectors has come way down, so the cost saving of sicking with XGA is minimal. The Optima GT1080 appears to be a popular choice.

[MountainGoat]

I've only been at this a week, but I though I'd share some preliminary observations.

 

Home golf simulators aren't in their infancy anymore, but the technology hasn't hit full maturity yet, either. It's still a fairly indulgent and expensive hobby for golfers who like to build things. Here are a few things I think I have learned so far:

 

1. Right from the start you have to decide what you're shooting for. Putting together a golf video game that's operated with a real club and ball is one thing. Putting together a truly immersive golf experience that reasonably approximates the real thing is something else. Personally, I'm not looking for video game. I'm looking for a way of keeping my swing alive thru the long, cold winter. So, I'd like a simulator that gives me the best indoor practice that I can get within a reasonable budget.

 

2. The folks at golfsimulatorforum.com list a zillion different simulators, but the only ones that seem to get used by the golfWRX crowd are the SkyTrak and Foresight GC2. A few people have a Flightscope, but not many. I also don't hear a lot of love for Optishot (see comparison here: https://shopindoorgo...ot-2-vs-skytrak). The SkyTrak appears to have hit the performance bullseye for the average home user.

 

3. SkyTrak is a fine unit, but if you can afford it, the GC2 is even better. It's said to be faster and more accurate, though there is little data to confirm the latter. It appears to be a lot more money for only a little more capability. Nonetheless, few people who have upgraded to the GC2 have said they regretted it. [see

for comparison]

• a GC2 with HMT (head measurement technology) is particularly revered for providing club data in addition to ball data, but it's hugely expensive.
  
• whatever you buy, get a metal enclosure, too.
  

4. SkyTrak is optimized for home use. To that end it's targeted to utilize the hardware most people have, namely an iPad or iPhone and a TV. It runs on an appropriately configured PC but, interestingly, not a Mac. It's not clear if it runs better with more computer horsepower, however. Packages like this tend to benefit from a good video card.

 

5. Don't rule out sim golf too quickly if for no other reason that the selection of a sim package informs your screen choice. While you can run a basic driving range with an iPad, full sim packages generally require a fair amount of computer horsepower, particularly video. PC hardware requirements are similar to those required for iRacing and other real-time, internet-based video games.

• Integration of a SkyTrak with any of the sim software providers requires the Game Improvement Package ($99.95/yr)
  
• WGT is $199.95/yr.; runs on iPad (not PC)
  
• E6 is $299/year (or $1800 buy and own) + extra course packs @ $400-500/pack
  
• TGC is $495.yr (or $795 buy and own); appears to be the top choice
  
• Creative Golf is $199/yr (or $499 buy and own)
  
• JNPG is no longer available for SkyTrak, which is a big loss
  

6. A good mat is super important. Frequently discussed models are Fiberbuilt, CCE, Trustrike and Divot Action. I've been using a SuperMat on a cement pad for quite a while without issue and it takes a regular tee. The CCE mat also takes a regular tee.

 

7. You'll need some kind of screening for the ceiling if you plan on hitting anything with more loft than a 7-iron.

 

8. If you have a SkyTrak, don't paint your walls white. Since it's a photometric system, it needs some contrast with the background for a reliable image. Also avoid direct sunlight.

 

9. You need at least 10 feet of ceiling height if you plan on freely swinging a driver. Many people use less than this, but I've seen swing planes flatten out as a result.

 

10. Distance from the tee to the screen isn't discussed much but appears to be in the range of 8 to 12 feet. On one hand, you want to be close enough to be visually immersive and to hit the screen with the ball. On the other, if you get too close to the screen, the image won't look very good.

 

11. ProjectorCentral.com is recommended for help in selecting a projector. Generally, you're looking for a short-throw (ST) gaming projector with keystone correction and at least a little bit of zoom control. Throw ratio equals distance to screen divided by screen width. A 4:3 aspect ratio is best for Skytrak (pixel resolution of an iPad Air 2 is 2018x1536, which is 4x3), but some of the sim packages are optimized for full HD (1920 x 1080).

• BenQ HT2150ST (HD) - high-rated short throw gaming projector on ProjectorCentral.com; good throw ratio (.69 - .83) - $849 (Prime)
  
• BenQ TH671ST (HD) - more brighness than the 2150; same throw (https://www.amazon.c...ds=BenQ TH671ST) - $684 (Prime)
  
• BenQ W1080ST is cited by a lot of people; may no longer be in production but still available (https://www.amazon.c...r/dp/B00B11C6HW)
  
• BenQ MW632ST (16:10); throw ratio = 0.72 - 0.87; recommended by one contributor to my thread. - $569 (Prime)
  
• BenQ MX631ST (4:3; 1024 x 768), short throw -- $684
  
• Optoma GT1080Darbee (HD); throw ratio = 0.5 (https://www.amazon.c...A8S537VVHWJ9MC5) -- $728(Prime)
  
• Optoma EH200ST (HD); 0.49:1 throw ratio; https://www.amazon.c...=Optoma EH200ST - $811 (Prime) recommended by rainorshinegolf.com
  
• Optoma W303ST (WXGA; 1200 x 800) https://www.amazon.c...ma+EH200ST&th=1 - $633 (Prime)
  
• Optoma W305ST (XGA; 4:3; 1024 x 768) https://www.amazon.c...ma+EH200ST&th=1 - $596 (Prime)
  

I'm inclined to agree that an HD projector is the safest choice and offers the widest range of possibilities, albeit at a somewhat higher price. While people generally don't discuss brightness, I have to think it's an important consideration, particularly given the potential size of the final image.

 

12. The projector can either be mounted on the ceiling or placed in a protective housing on the floor. Floor use will probably require an ultra-short throw projector (0.5:1) and some horizontal offset. If placed on the ceiling, you'll want it directly above you to stay out of harm's way. If you place it behind you, there's a risk of shadowing. That said, I've seen setups where a projector with horizontal offset was placed behind the golfer and offset to the right. So, there are a number of different possible setups depending on the characteristics of your projector.

• Getting the image to your projector depends on the type of computer you use. If an iPad or iPhone, you can use an Apple TV unit or a lightening->HDMI cable. If a PC, you'll need to run HDMI cable.
  

13. Screen aspect ratio is a consequence of sim package you intend to use and, therefore, the computer you intend to run it on. You really need to select your intended sim package before buying a projector and screen.

• 4:3 (8x10.67, or 9x12, or 10x13.3) - WGT and Creative Golf
  
• 16:10 (8 x 12.8) - True Golf E6
  
• 16:9 (8x14.2) - TGC
  

14. Screen size is a hard thing to predict in advance. You really have to experience it in person to understand what size feels immersive.

• For reference, a garage door is approximately 7x9, and a garage bay is typically 10-12 wide. A standard room ceiling is 8 feet. The ceilings in large houses are often 9 feet.
  

15. The screen needs to be reflective enough to handle a large projected image and strong enough to get hit in the same spot over and over. The protective netting catches mis-hit balls and helps maintain image contrast.

• A lot of DIYers just use a bed sheet or thick mattress pad.
  
• A mesh tarp from Harbor freight makes a nice blackout around the screen. ["]https://www.harborfr...errer=https://]
  
• People also suggest enclosures from carlofet.com as a nice solution ["]https://www.carlofet...ct-screen.html]
  
• Alternate source for a screen is West Coast Netting PR20 (see:
  ). It's not a screen so much as a piece of white netting.
  
• An even better source for a screen is par2par.com ["]https://www.par2pro....hp?cPath=23_35]
  

16. Apparently, the R-Motion device can now be coupled with SkyTrak to provide some rudimentary clubhead information. It doesn't affect ball flight on the simulator, it just provides club path, face angle and swing speed measurements that display on the screen.

[sdrthedj]

Skytrak is great. GC2 is better (especially for short game and putting, and you can use JNPG)

 

Avoid WGT and the $199 yearly, buy TGC and only pay the $99 that skytrak charges to have sim access

 

More computer horsepower equals faster shot rendering from skytrak. A slower computer will take let's say 5 seconds, a faster computer can get you down to 1-3. Video card power obviously plays into how high you can set the details within the game.

 

 

Size the screen to fit your room and how you will be hitting into it the best, than work your way backwards to screen material. I like the wider and bigger screen, but have played on smaller screens just find.

TGC runs fine if you scale it differently. Please don't believe that if you want to use TGC you can only use 16:9. Many people use a 4:3 for their sim because it fits the space better.

 

 

Look for a refurbished projector. That's what I bought, example here:

 

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824219261

 

 

I would personally steer you away from E6, partially because of cost ($500 per year is absurd), but because TGC has a robust online community for games, technical support, general SIM golf things. E6 has a much smaller user base, fewer courses and much greater long term cost.

 

JNPG would be may best recommendation if you buy a GC2

 

 

You can be as close as you want from the screen as long as you can make a swing. Some people are as close as 6-7'. I'm about 9, but wouldn't mind being closer, just doesn't fit the setup all that well.

[MountainGoat]

Skytrak is great. GC2 is better (especially for short game and putting, and you can use JNPG)

 

Avoid WGT and the $199 yearly, buy TGC and only pay the $99 that skytrak charges to have sim access

 

More computer horsepower equals faster shot rendering from skytrak. A slower computer will take let's say 5 seconds, a faster computer can get you down to 1-3. Video card power obviously plays into how high you can set the details within the game.

 

 

Size the screen to fit your room and how you will be hitting into it the best, than work your way backwards to screen material. I like the wider and bigger screen, but have played on smaller screens just find.

TGC runs fine if you scale it differently. Please don't believe that if you want to use TGC you can only use 16:9. Many people use a 4:3 for their sim because it fits the space better.

 

 

Look for a refurbished projector. That's what I bought, example here:

 

https://www.newegg.c...N82E16824219261

 

 

I would personally steer you away from E6, partially because of cost ($500 per year is absurd), but because TGC has a robust online community for games, technical support, general SIM golf things. E6 has a much smaller user base, fewer courses and much greater long term cost.

 

JNPG would be may best recommendation if you buy a GC2

 

 

You can be as close as you want from the screen as long as you can make a swing. Some people are as close as 6-7'. I'm about 9, but wouldn't mind being closer, just doesn't fit the setup all that well.

 

Thanks for the comments. GC2/JNPC is out of my league price wise...unfortunately. I hear you about WGT and E6. WGT doesn't look very sophisticated, and I get the feeling that TG is falling behind. The guideline for TGC to run in 16:9 (1920 x 1080) comes from the user manual. I'm sure it can be run in other modes, but that's what the software developer recommends. I'll be interested to see how these things really perform.