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M43's... To Refinish Or Not Refinish... That Is The Question


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17 minutes ago, stevehj said:

 

Infamous last words   😜

Lol.  You have a 693 that I find very nice!  😁

Driver:  TaylorMade 300 Mini 11.5° (10.2°), Fujikura Ventus Blue 5S Velocore

3W:  TaylorMade M4 15°, Graphite Design Tour AD DI 7S

Hybrid:  TaylorMade Sim2 2 Iron Hybrid 17°, Mitsubishi Tensai AV Raw Blue 80 stiff

Irons:  Mizuno Pro 223 4-PW, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

GW / SW: Mizuno T-22, 52° (bent to 50°)/ 56° (bent to 54°), True Temper S400

LW:  Scratch Golf 1018 forged 58° DS, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

Putter:  Byron Morgan Epic Day custom, Salty MidPlus cork grip

Grips:  BestGrips Augusta Microperf leather slip on

 

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3 hours ago, northplatteriver said:

You might want to drill a hole right below where that crack stops just to get in front of the crack...

That's exactly what I was thinking about doing. Terminate the crack, makes sure the hole goes down to the shaft cavity, plug the hole with a small dowel at the surface, and force the epoxy up the hole and into the crack. I'll probably terminate in on both ends. I've never widened the crack more, but I'll try. In this case, I think I'll be ready to force some epoxy in from the top if it doesn't come up through the crack.  I have another M43, plus two great M33s, so I really have nothing to lose. I just need the weather to hold long enough to get my 653 off the bench and get this done as well.

 

When I'm dealing with cracks, I do a few things to reduce the sanding. I tape both sides of the crack as close as I can without covering the crack, then I wait a half hour for the epoxy to set but not be rock hard and run a razor blade over the excess. Most of it will come off, then I sand what is left the next day. This crack is low and will show, but I like my clubs a little worn and damaged, just like me.

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7 hours ago, Stephen8802 said:

That's exactly what I was thinking about doing. Terminate the crack, makes sure the hole goes down to the shaft cavity, plug the hole with a small dowel at the surface, and force the epoxy up the hole and into the crack. I'll probably terminate in on both ends. I've never widened the crack more, but I'll try. In this case, I think I'll be ready to force some epoxy in from the top if it doesn't come up through the crack.

 

That would be my approach as well.  Treat it like welding metal, especially cast.  Open up the crack; fill it full of epoxy and then shape it back down to flush.

My problem is LOFT -- Lack of friggin' talent

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  • 1 month later...
5 hours ago, RobotDoctor said:

Here is the driver of the set I bought from northplatteriver at the end of October.  I think it is going to end up being a decent driver.  
 

 

D049295F-8B5A-4102-A875-8CBCA36177BF.jpeg

728668B9-E2DB-4281-9627-CCE519AB7897.jpeg

FBCE047E-4E4C-4EE4-B689-8893C8B5AFDE.jpeg

B8F7997B-564D-47D0-BDAD-E3738E56CA30.jpeg

206B61E1-CA0F-4BE3-8749-19B384B7B56F.jpeg

It looks really nice.  I like how well centered the layers of the fiber insert show up in relation to the screws.  The shaping of the face is obviously done right.  I think its beautiful. 

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7 hours ago, Swingingk said:

It looks really nice.  I like how well centered the layers of the fiber insert show up in relation to the screws.  The shaping of the face is obviously done right.  I think its beautiful. 

Ok.  I'll post in the M85W thread for you!

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Driver:  TaylorMade 300 Mini 11.5° (10.2°), Fujikura Ventus Blue 5S Velocore

3W:  TaylorMade M4 15°, Graphite Design Tour AD DI 7S

Hybrid:  TaylorMade Sim2 2 Iron Hybrid 17°, Mitsubishi Tensai AV Raw Blue 80 stiff

Irons:  Mizuno Pro 223 4-PW, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

GW / SW: Mizuno T-22, 52° (bent to 50°)/ 56° (bent to 54°), True Temper S400

LW:  Scratch Golf 1018 forged 58° DS, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

Putter:  Byron Morgan Epic Day custom, Salty MidPlus cork grip

Grips:  BestGrips Augusta Microperf leather slip on

 

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  • 1 month later...
5 hours ago, RobotDoctor said:

 

I just received a few pictures from Dave for the restored M43 driver.  I cannot say how amazed I am with the work Dave does. 

 

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These photos could legitimately be framed for exhibition.   I wasn't around in the 50's but this club has to be the equal or better than the original factory finish.  These look like marketing shots for Macgregor.

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1 hour ago, Brewski_golfs said:

These photos could legitimately be framed for exhibition.   I wasn't around in the 50's but this club has to be the equal or better than the original factory finish.  These look like marketing shots for Macgregor.

The finishes back in the 50s were a glaze type finish, not a stain.  While the original finishes were lustrous, they didn't allow the grain of the wood to show. 

 

One difference Dave Wood does that most restoration people don't is that he uses a fine wood engraving tool to bring out the stampings if needed.  He has done this for many years and it helps that he has such a steady hand.  He made the driver pictured below for Bernhard Langer to commemorate the 1993 Masters victory.  Sorry for the low detailed image.  It is the best I could find but I assure everyone the detail is incredible.

 

image.png.009c4fca14adf2f98cfd31c8497bca56.png

 

The fine engraving technique eliminates the removal of wood around the stamping that picking often does.  This produces cleaner and crisper stampings, as evident with this M43.  I am to the point that I have maybe one or two woods I really desire to complete my collection.  Either they will have perfect crown and sole stampings or very. very close to it.  I know Dave will be able to bring that wood to top tier.  I will have the fairway woods for both sets restored next year.

Driver:  TaylorMade 300 Mini 11.5° (10.2°), Fujikura Ventus Blue 5S Velocore

3W:  TaylorMade M4 15°, Graphite Design Tour AD DI 7S

Hybrid:  TaylorMade Sim2 2 Iron Hybrid 17°, Mitsubishi Tensai AV Raw Blue 80 stiff

Irons:  Mizuno Pro 223 4-PW, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

GW / SW: Mizuno T-22, 52° (bent to 50°)/ 56° (bent to 54°), True Temper S400

LW:  Scratch Golf 1018 forged 58° DS, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

Putter:  Byron Morgan Epic Day custom, Salty MidPlus cork grip

Grips:  BestGrips Augusta Microperf leather slip on

 

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  • 2 months later...

For some reason the insert of this M43T had come loose after a spa session with my club guy.  He took it back in and ended up replacing the insert and putting it through a spa session and facial.   
 

image.jpeg.0e0bb21351eb9fd121a80825f5befde0.jpeg

 

image.jpeg.a23b48a771ea0dd94034fcbc6faf2214.jpeg

 

image.jpeg.08735f9142ef9d1298498749d5aa1f7a.jpeg

 

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image.jpeg.e3e014dc3fab8816f34c1b64dd407332.jpeg

 

image.jpeg.b725fb6339a4195174712dcc7b2f616a.jpeg

 

image.jpeg.3dfc140d1065b0c018bb9532d4ba943e.jpeg

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Driver:  TaylorMade 300 Mini 11.5° (10.2°), Fujikura Ventus Blue 5S Velocore

3W:  TaylorMade M4 15°, Graphite Design Tour AD DI 7S

Hybrid:  TaylorMade Sim2 2 Iron Hybrid 17°, Mitsubishi Tensai AV Raw Blue 80 stiff

Irons:  Mizuno Pro 223 4-PW, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

GW / SW: Mizuno T-22, 52° (bent to 50°)/ 56° (bent to 54°), True Temper S400

LW:  Scratch Golf 1018 forged 58° DS, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

Putter:  Byron Morgan Epic Day custom, Salty MidPlus cork grip

Grips:  BestGrips Augusta Microperf leather slip on

 

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