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Get fitted! Searching for a game? Buying your game ? Constantly buying new toy? A real fools errand?


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Came to a conclusion after working on the game diligently after the last couple months. Just go get fitted, then work on the game. It will save you so much time, energy, and $$$. Over it.

Is there any other industry whereby the product has such marginal performance gains over recently released models , sold to a demographic of probably higher than avg. intelligence folks (I know, a stretch there perhaps)--where the end product simply just doesn't deliver the promised gains in an meaningful matter --save for a placebo effect? Maybe--but I cant think of one. LoL

 

From roughly a 10 year period from 2003-2012 avg driving distance increased about 3 yards!? Looks like in 2012 PGA tour averaged 290--now its up 5 yards to 295 in 2018 Hhahah. Senior PGA averaged about 2 yards further? And you are hitting it a lot further with that new flashy head and the expensive upgraded Stiff or X-stiff shaft? Hmmmmmm??

https://www.golfdigest.com/story/is-distance-really-out-of-cont

 

Center hits on drivers from the last 10+ years are NO HOTTER than anything that came before it. A ball fired at the center of the clubface at 100 mph (the stnd. test by USGA) will come off at 83mph or less or club will be deemed non-conforming and not sold. No such thing a hotter than ever driver......

 

Shaft flex matters no where near you think it does. https://tinyurl.com/y5upgbb7

 

Finally - the marketing truth on high end shafts from Wishon- who knows far far more than the 2 hdcp, 110mph SS golfwrx playa will ever know. Buying new heads and shafts without proper guidance seems like such a waste of $$.

 

Wishon states "Numerous times I have heard from clubmakers who tell me that so many times when a golfer has hit a couple of shafts both very well, if one of them is a high dollar shaft, often he will opt for that expensive shaft over the one of lesser cost because he thinks with no real justification that the higher dollar shaft has to be better because it does cost more. In such cases, the clubmakers tell me that they can try to explain the facts of performance but the golfer doesn't want to hear it. so in the end, the clubmaker is compelled to do what the golfer wants."

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Hockey is similar. New sticks every year... barely any different than the prior years. Skate tech is marginally better each year and I often see great players wearing or using gear from 10+ years ago.

 

Anyway, the simple answer is just get fit and play what works. Forget the "why" and just accept results, proven through data and analysis. Don't get caught up in flex designations, OEM shaft characteristics, costs of one club vs another and so on.

 

Taylormade SIM Max 9* - Ventus Black 6x

Cobra Speedzone Big 3 Tour - Accra FX 2.0 370 M5

Cobra Speedzone - Accra FX 2.0 380 M5

Titleist 818H1 - Ventus Blue 10x

Cobra Forged Tec Black 6i, Forged CB 6-GW - AMT X100 Onyx

Titleist SM8 54.12D, 58.8M - S400 Tour Issue Onyx

Custom Atwood

TP5 (testing Vice Pro)

 

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As someone who is completely revamping his bag, I agree! (GolfWRX laugh here)...

Seriously, though... I am playing 22 year old irons, and woods I didn't get fit. I'm working on changing that this summer and then I won't worry about new clubs until my swing changes and they aren't performing for me anymore.

 

One big takeaway I've had from lessons this summer is that I tell the club how far I hit the ball, it doesn't tell me... I think this goes with the not changing your clubs philosophy... it doesn't matter to me how far I CAN hit a PW, for me, I want to be good with it from 125-140 yards. From there, it's a simple question of "are my clubs performing to my expectations?" and as long as the answer is yes, I'm good to go.

 

My current process is trying to build out my expectations and then build the bag to match... We will see how it goes!

As of 6/5/20

9.5 Cobra LTD Pro with Aldila Silver 110

13 Degree Adams Speedline with Aldila Alpha 

18 Degree Adams A12 with Proforce V2

4 Utility Sub70 699u 22 degree Proforce V2

5 iron Sub70 639 CB with S400

6-PW Adams CMB with Project X 6.0

50, 54, 60 Vokeys

Tank Counter Balance #7 

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I'm a fan of trial and error off of a grass range and on the course to learn what specs fit you. Then you just play clubs in that window going forward

It's fun trying out the latest and greatest


Ping G400 Max Graphite Design AD XC 6x

Ping G400 5w Diamana Blue B 80s G400 7w GD PM902s

Callaway Apex 4h 23* Matrix HQ3x Apex 5h 26* Fubuki 82x

Mizuno 919T 6 - PW UST Mamiya Recoil Prototype 95 f4
Vokey SM2 50*, SM2 TVD 56*M & 59*M, 64* Recoil Proto 95 f4

Piretti Matera Elite
 

 

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This is nonsense. Get fitted.....Really......Wheres the fun in that? In all seriousness if you want to get better at the game and be more consistent everyone probably should get fitted. If you enjoy tinkering with your equipment and the score is not what drives you than that works too. I think there are probably multiple schools of though and each of them are right from a given perspective. Ultimately play the game how you get the most enjoyment. If that means getting fitted and getting your scores as low as you can than thats what you should do. If that means you buy multiple sets of irons and that brings you enjoyment than thats what you should do.

 

Hit em straight.

M5 Kiyoshi Purple
TM M4 16.5 VA Composites Drago 75
Epon AF901 19*/22*
PXG 031X Proto CTaper 125 5-P/Ping I500/I210 KBS Tour 125 5-P
PXG 0311 Forged 50/56/60-Scratch 1018 50/53/58
Rife Deep Blue

FOR NOW...........
All Clubs subject to change relative to my last bad round of golf......

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Agree 100%. Although I believe there aren't many good fitters out there. I think you need a few options to test on the course, or hit for a few weeks that are in the range of playable options before you really know what works for you. For example, I got fit for a driver a 9 months ago. I settled on one shaft during my fitting, knowing that I could reach out to the fitter/club maker and make tweaks if we needed to. Once I got comfortable with the new driver, it started drawing a little to much. I called the fitter back, explained what was going on, he sent me another shaft to try based on the shaft I was hitting. It immediately removed the draw and added an extra fairway or two which is huge.

 

I feel bad for these players that pay good money for what they think is a good fitting experience only to have their clubs not work after the first month of play. I have seen this time and time again. If you are spending $2k plus on a set of custom built irons, and around that for woods only for them not to work it really changes the way you think about the fitting process and how you spend your money.

 

I'm all for getting the right clubs for you in your bag and I believe that you can't pay enough for it if you find the right fitter.

 

You won't find this fitting experience at a local retailer, or even a club champion like store. Fitting is so important, but unfortunately you don't get a good experience unless you know what you are looking for.

 

 

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Welcome to the harsh realities, that, the equipment has not changed, But the ability to optimized the equipment to the player has evolved.

1) Adjustable Drivers. have likely made the whole world of difference (in terms of marketing distance) The fact that you can in a single fitting swap between a 50 gram shaft up to 80 gram driver shafts (of course) anything in between. Then add in the shaft flex to find the optimized setting for you in that single session will likely net the false hope of buying more distance.

2) Adjustable drives, let you tune flight characteristics to optimize output.

 

Here is the reality. R & A rules of golf, 239 CT unit +/- 18 or ABSOLUTE legal max is 257 CT units.... thats been around since 2004 meaning for 15 years there is NO Driver out there that can exceed this limit. PERIOD... RBZ is NOT less then the M6 Nor is the 910D2 and less then the TS2

 

More harsh realities, by single fitting number, the maximum efficiency is 1.5 smash, Meaning your Average swing speed (Times) 1.5 or your Average ball speed (Divided by ) 1.5 Thats it.....

 

From there is optimizing, Launch characteristics. from Launch angle, spin, decent angle to optimize your shot. I say optimize and not maximize as these generic rules apply to irons and wedges not only woods.

 

PW, I have X average swing speed and to assume an average Smash factor or (efficiency) is 1.22 = your ball speed then you tune your Launch angle, Max height, Decent angle and spin and you should have a dialed in PW.

 

Part 3 - The Consumer grade launch monitor. LM's are becoming affordable for the base consumer to obtain and optimize in their own realm.... remember bonded drives if the stock shaft was NOT a fit.... what do you do? Mizuno DNA fitting carts? what happen prior to those... man what a pain to have a bonded, 6iron with S200,S300,S400, X100 etc....

 

Part 3 - Distance Sells......... the difference between the RBZ for the M6? Sweet spot has likely increased meaning that while 1.5 efficiency is still constant, 239CT units is still constant, when you miss more, larger on the face of current gens. They are able to maintain greater efficiency numbers on the wider portions of the face than prior generations. example 1/4" low on the face would likely punish efficiency on the RBZ from 1.5 to 1.4 (example only) , but the M6 would likely maintain efficiency at 1.43 leading to surely more ball speed and distance on a less then optimal strike, BUT none the less MORE distance to the amateur. Guess what they will buy it. YET they lack the reality that they are STILL NOT striking at the greatest efficiency potential that is still out there.......

 

 

 

 

 

 

TM M3 - Tensei White 60S 
TM 15* M2v1 - RIP Phenom 60S
TM 18* M2v1 - Rogue 70S
TM TP MC - 4 & 5 PX 6.0 Rifles
Sub70 - PW-8MBs, 7&6 CBs  PX 6.0 Rifles
Vokey SM7 - 50*/8*, 56*/10* & 60*/8* S300
Scotty Newport 2 - 33"

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