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X100 & S300 iron mix suggestions?


therb
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I can't afford the luxury of a full set of X100s yet but I managed to get my hands on 6 x TT DG X100 Tour shafts from a buddy. I've played S300s most my life but as I get more into golf and learn more about my game I've been recommended to use x stiff iron by my local pro. I demo'd his on the range and enjoyed the tight dispersion it provided. I've always had trouble with ballooning my full swing, especially wedges when I'm 100-150 yards.

 

I've always had a quick tempo my driver SS is 115-118. I use x-stiff in my driver/3 wood/3hybrid. My SS is aggressive and steep, I take large divots in my 7 iron and up. I hit my 4-6 irons a bit shallower with less divot. I have a 50/54/58 in S200/S300 flex. Should I play the stiffer x100s in my higher irons cause of my steep & aggressive tempo? I was thinking put my 7-PW in X100s and leave S300s in my 4-6 and leave S200/300 in the 54/58. I take lots of full swings with my 50* as well as PW so I figure the extra stiffness would benefit.

 

I've also read about hard/soft stepping irons, could that be a possibility with the s300s? I currently have a 3iron w/ s300 that I don't use so maybe hardstep that? What are your thoughts? Thanks in advance.

 

 

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> @Doyouevenblade said:

> I would think it matters what 6 x100 shafts you got from your friend? Each shaft has a certain length that goes in a certain iron....

 

You will have to figure out whats shafts this 6 is, then get back.

Measure tip length to first step. They shall be 2 inch shorter vs S300 for the same shaft.

Hard stepping can be done with tip trim if wanted

 

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> @agolf1 said:

> Don't these shafts (X100 vs. S300) also have somewhat of a different profile? I.e. a mix-and-match set is going to be somewhat different than just having a softer flex of the same shaft in certain clubs?

 

Yes, their profile is not "identical", but look at a set of "Flighted" PX or RIFLE FCM.

Its a mix of both weight and profiles to make it, and many of them who plays them loves them, so a mix of profiles is not always bad, it depend on the feel preference the player has, so if it feels good, never mind what it looks like on the paper.

Some players is very sensitive to differences, others are not, so we cant judge anything as "Right or Wrong", before testing is done.

 

If you deep dive into specs for TT AMT, you will see that they dont even have the same uncut length on the butt section in the set, and the lightest, the RED, has Constant weight long end, Ascending weight short end, so again, its no right or wrong, only good or bad fit, and thats individual.

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> @therb said:

> > @Doyouevenblade said:

> > I would think it matters what 6 x100 shafts you got from your friend? Each shaft has a certain length that goes in a certain iron....

> Should have mentioned that. Range from 34.75" - 37.5"

> 34.75" / 34.75" / 35.25" / 35.75" / 36.25"

 

> @"Howard Jones" said:

> > @agolf1 said:

> > Don't these shafts (X100 vs. S300) also have somewhat of a different profile? I.e. a mix-and-match set is going to be somewhat different than just having a softer flex of the same shaft in certain clubs?

>

> Yes, their profile is not "identical", but look at a set of "Flighted" PX or RIFLE FCM.

> Its a mix of both weight and profiles to make it, and many of them who plays them loves them, so a mix of profiles is not always bad, it depend on the feel preference the player has, so if it feels good, never mind what it looks like on the paper.

> Some players is very sensitive to differences, others are not, so we cant judge anything as "Right or Wrong", before testing is done.

>

> If you deep dive into specs for TT AMT, you will see that they dont even have the same uncut length on the butt section in the set, and the lightest, the RED, has Constant weight long end, Ascending weight short end, so again, its no right or wrong, only good or bad fit, and thats individual.

 

Appreciate your insight. I've managed to measure the lengths of the shafts. They are as follows: 34.75" / 35.25" / 35.75" / 36.50" / 37.00" / 37.50"

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> @therb said:

> > @therb said:

> > > @Doyouevenblade said:

> > > I would think it matters what 6 x100 shafts you got from your friend? Each shaft has a certain length that goes in a certain iron....

> > Should have mentioned that. Range from 34.75" - 37.5"

> > 34.75" / 34.75" / 35.25" / 35.75" / 36.25"

>

> > @"Howard Jones" said:

> > > @agolf1 said:

> > > Don't these shafts (X100 vs. S300) also have somewhat of a different profile? I.e. a mix-and-match set is going to be somewhat different than just having a softer flex of the same shaft in certain clubs?

> >

> > Yes, their profile is not "identical", but look at a set of "Flighted" PX or RIFLE FCM.

> > Its a mix of both weight and profiles to make it, and many of them who plays them loves them, so a mix of profiles is not always bad, it depend on the feel preference the player has, so if it feels good, never mind what it looks like on the paper.

> > Some players is very sensitive to differences, others are not, so we cant judge anything as "Right or Wrong", before testing is done.

> >

> > If you deep dive into specs for TT AMT, you will see that they dont even have the same uncut length on the butt section in the set, and the lightest, the RED, has Constant weight long end, Ascending weight short end, so again, its no right or wrong, only good or bad fit, and thats individual.

>

> Appreciate your insight. I've managed to measure the lengths of the shafts. They are as follows: 34.75" / 35.25" / 35.75" / 36.50" / 37.00" / 37.50"

 

Net cut lengths dont help us to identify what shafts they are, we need to look at TIP Length to figure out what they are. In a set of taper tips, each shaft is designed for a specific head # or head weight if you like, and DG is made as #1 to #9. To see what each shaft actually is, we must use tip to first tip. Here is a chart for that.

 

Most likely will 2 shafts be a #9 iron shafts (look at the shortest)

They shall have tip to fist step of 6.0", then we go 0.5 longer for each club longer.

If that set is for 5-PW the longest, the #5 would have a tip section of 8.0"

 

5ti3mdsm49re.png

 

Net. cut length plus BBGM ("Bottom of bore to ground") plus grip cap = play length. When we know what each shafts actually is, we can add 1.25" as BBGM and 1/8" as grip cap, then we have play length for the iron head number using the shafts you got. From that point we can look at what options you got.

(BBGM of 1.25" is typical for players irons, but the heads you got might be both higher or shorter than this"

 

 

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> @"Howard Jones" said:

> > @therb said:

> > > @therb said:

> > > > @Doyouevenblade said:

> > > > I would think it matters what 6 x100 shafts you got from your friend? Each shaft has a certain length that goes in a certain iron....

> > > Should have mentioned that. Range from 34.75" - 37.5"

> > > 34.75" / 34.75" / 35.25" / 35.75" / 36.25"

> >

> > > @"Howard Jones" said:

> > > > @agolf1 said:

> > > > Don't these shafts (X100 vs. S300) also have somewhat of a different profile? I.e. a mix-and-match set is going to be somewhat different than just having a softer flex of the same shaft in certain clubs?

> > >

> > > Yes, their profile is not "identical", but look at a set of "Flighted" PX or RIFLE FCM.

> > > Its a mix of both weight and profiles to make it, and many of them who plays them loves them, so a mix of profiles is not always bad, it depend on the feel preference the player has, so if it feels good, never mind what it looks like on the paper.

> > > Some players is very sensitive to differences, others are not, so we cant judge anything as "Right or Wrong", before testing is done.

> > >

> > > If you deep dive into specs for TT AMT, you will see that they dont even have the same uncut length on the butt section in the set, and the lightest, the RED, has Constant weight long end, Ascending weight short end, so again, its no right or wrong, only good or bad fit, and thats individual.

> >

> > Appreciate your insight. I've managed to measure the lengths of the shafts. They are as follows: 34.75" / 35.25" / 35.75" / 36.50" / 37.00" / 37.50"

>

> Net cut lengths dont help us to identify what shafts they are, we need to look at TIP Length to figure out what they are. In a set of taper tips, each shaft is designed for a specific head # or head weight if you like, and DG is made as #1 to #9. To see what each shaft actually is, we must use tip to first tip. Here is a chart for that.

>

> Most likely will 2 shafts be a #9 iron shafts (look at the shortest)

> They shall have tip to fist step of 6.0", then we go 0.5 longer for each club longer.

> If that set is for 5-PW the longest, the #5 would have a tip section of 8.0"

>

>

> Net. cut length plus BBGM ("Bottom of bore to ground") plus grip cap = play length. When we know what each shafts actually is, we can add 1.25" as BBGM and 1/8" as grip cap, then we have play length for the iron head number using the shafts you got. From that point we can look at what options you got.

> (BBGM of 1.25" is typical for players irons, but the heads you got might be both higher or shorter than this"

>

>

Turns out they're 4i - 9i shafts.

 

I'm thinking of either soft-stepping them once, or just buying a few more shafts to complete the set-up. I finally got a 50* and it'll be used for full shots (130 - 135 yds) so my gut is telling me to put an X100 in it but I enjoy the feeling of the softer S300 when hitting my 54*. It's a (120 - 130 yds) club full swing but I'm most comfortable with it from 100 yards as the feel I get from the S300s is amazing.

 

One negative I find with the S300 is the high ball flight in the wind and I notice on windy days my dispersion is worse than it should be. I've read the X100 goes lower so perhaps this helps me with my PW & GW.

I have an S200 Tour Issue in my stock MD4 but at only 115 grams I could see myself swapping in an S300 as well to help with those finesse shots that aren't aggressive swings, or a X100 because I know I'll still want it for aggressive full swings.

 

I know it comes down to preference but based on mine, what would you recommend?

 

 

Options:

 

(3i) - S300

(5i - PW) - X100 SS

(50*, 54*, 58*) - S300

 

or buy 2 more x100 tour issue shafts and put them in to complete set.

 

(3i) - S300

(4i - 50*) - X100

(54*, 58*) - S300

 

 

Thanks in advance!

 

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just buy the standard X100 for irons, and use a #8 X100 for your GW to keep flight down, but a tad softer feel than using a #9 X100, and use S300 #9 for SW and LW

 

Tour Issue is only a tighter weight sorting of plus minus 0.5 grams vs Gold who is plus minus 1.5 grams, its the same shafts....

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Or even cut them down half an inch? Never officially fitted but I tend to choke up slightly o> @"Howard Jones" said:

> just buy the standard X100 for irons, and use a #8 X100 for your GW to keep flight down, but a tad softer feel than using a #9 X100, and use S300 #9 for SW and LW

>

> Tour Issue is only a tighter weight sorting of plus minus 0.5 grams vs Gold who is plus minus 1.5 grams, its the same shafts....

 

Gotcha.> @"Howard Jones" said:

> just buy the standard X100 for irons, and use a #8 X100 for your GW to keep flight down, but a tad softer feel than using a #9 X100, and use S300 #9 for SW and LW

>

> Tour Issue is only a tighter weight sorting of plus minus 0.5 grams vs Gold who is plus minus 1.5 grams, its the same shafts....

 

Putting the X100 in their true clubs from 4i - GW. Keeping S300 in 54 & 58.

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