Question for 3-wedge guys

[Bubbtubbs]

Thinking of replacing my MD3 wedges this season and looking cut some input.

My Hogan channelbacks are in 3-E(PW) and I just got them measured again at the end of season. Starting from 3i upwards, I have 23.5, 26.5, 30.5, 34.5, 38, 42, 46, 50. I treat it like a 4-GW set because the distances are comparable to modern lofts (210-126yd carry). I'll probably get the half degrees bent slightly strong to round out the set to whole numbers.

With that configuration, going 54-12 58-08 for sand and lob makes the most sense to me. Have any of you had an issue with using a high bounce 54 for bunker play? I'm not opposed to going 56 60 if that's the case.

Thanks.

[rufus mangler]

IDK what kind of sand you play out of, but I played SM4 54.14, 58.09 down here in Fl. for a few years with no problem. If anything, I wished I had MORE bounce on the 58.

 

At one point I went to Orange Co. Natl. and hit hundreds of bunker shots with my 54, 58 and a 60. The 54.14 was the clear winner for all distances and lies.

[Back9]

I use a 54/58 set up with a full bounce 54. Full Bounce is best for full shots for me. Works fine in soft bunkers and for longer greenside bunker shots but I mostly use my 58 in the sand.

[SnapHooker_307]

I currently have a 54-10 and 58-8 in the bag. There are times when I wish I had a little more bounce on my 54, but out of the sand on my home course and most of the courses around here I don't tend to have too many issues. We also have firmer turf conditions, so I focused more on turf interaction than I do performance out of the sand.

[Bubbtubbs]

Sounds like I might have to stick to 56 or get a turf fitting if you guys are mostly using the 58 from the sand.

I use 56 for chipping and all bunker play generally since I just open the face as needed. The low bounce 60 is just there for 80+ yard moonballs over the odd tree, shortsided shots and the hard packed bunkers if its overly dry, or in the late, late fall when they stop maintaining the traps.

Generally the sand is fairly fluffy during peak season.

[ChipNRun]

Since you are mixing club models, there's no guarantee the 50 --> 54 --> 58 yardage gaps will be even without bending.

I'm still in MD3 for 48* and 54*, with the 54*/12 being a wide sole. Gets ball out of sand as long as I skim it and don't hit down too much.

I dumped a MD.PM 60*/10 U-grind for an MD4 58*/8 C-grind. ... 58* more versatile, and distance much more consistent, and I can use it for three-quarter shots (60*/10 gets unstable for me at more than half swing).

If you prefer a 56*, you could always bend the GW to 51* if the yardage gap came out uneven.

As for a high-bounce SW, there's a lot to be said for having at least one high-bouncer in bag - gives you options. Also, a few of our resident physicists will have 56*/14 for normal sand, and a 56*/10 for heavier sand. Science fair anyone?

[Bubbtubbs]

That's a good point, though I'm not sure either wedge really needs to gap perfectly. I only hit a full shot with the lob wedge when I find myself about 80-90 yards out with a tall obstacle (usually a fairway tree) I can't punch under and need the height to clear it.

I generally figure out part swing distances with the wedges and PW (mostly used as a 10i) using the clock method each season and adjust my play accordingly. Still, it'd be good to make sure there isn't overlap.

Can you bend non-forged wedges, or do they need to be ordered in oddball lofts?

[Back9]

They can be bent just fine. Most manufacturers say the limit is 2 degrees either way but I have seen as much as 4 degrees flat without an issue. Usually don’t need more than 2 degrees strong or weak so not an issue.

[EddyVN]

I use a 54 S grind SM7 then a 58 D grind.

 

the 58 out of steeper bunkers is like cheating it works so well, and to be honest I’ve never struggled to open it up a bit and hit spinners off tight lies. Longer bunker shots I open the 54 a touch.

 

if you need a high dead stopper I open the 58 and strike it on the toe slightly.

 

wouldn’t change a thing in my setup. So 54/58 I would highly recommend

[ChipNRun]

Bt, You're right... some people will just play wedges as is and note yardage distances. It depends in part on how much you are a mechanic vs. a feel player.

As for bending non-forged wedges, you can usually do a degree or two. One of the big questions deals with hosel design. Some hosels have a structuring that is difficult to engage with a bend bar. And, this can vary from model to model within the same OEM. When in doubt, contact the manufacturer and ask how much bending it will take. Some will recommend a factory bend it it's touchy. Skill of clubsmith also a factor.

If you knew for sure you wanted a 59* wedge, you could have it pre-bent at the factory. Or you could test it out first and then - if it bends OK - have tl local clubsmith adjust it.

[texcrom]

This is the funniest comment ever......

”80-90 yards out with a tall obstacle (usually a fairway tree)”.

Now you play some tough courses, with fairway trees! Hell, I have a tough enough time with the ones that line the fairways!!!

As they say.....Fairways and greens......and Fairway Trees!

[8602081]

I think traditionally PW is around 46.. But lot of newer clubs are jacked up..

 

I use PW, 52, 58..

It's been working for me pretty good..

 

[Bubbtubbs]

I don't know what kind of stadium courses or wide open cow paths you're playing, but there's plenty of courses that have trees in the fairway: Harbour Town #16 has three, Pebble #18 had a glorious cypress in the fairway LZ before a storm blew it over a few years ago...

Lots of my local courses use established copses of trees to split fairways, narrow approaches to the green or give you a hard time if you don't properly shape your shot around a dogleg.

Get bent.

[nitram]

The course I grew up on (Idabel CC) and have realistically played 1,000 rounds on has a hole (#7 par 4) with an oak tree in the middle/left side of the 28 yard wide fairway. In the past 40 years it has grown wider and closed off the right side to where it literally leaves about a 6 yard window on the extreme right edge of the fairway. A 220 yard shot will leave you short enough to go over the now 70 ft. tall tree to a green that's 90 yards (front) away and/or requires a 270 yard stinger to be totally relieved from the tree.

Fairway trees do exist....

[texcrom]

Little hyper sensitive, huh? I’ll chalk it up to your anxiety over being behind so many fairway trees!!

[ChipNRun]

There's also those trees that hang over the edge of the fairway. Case in point is No. 5, a 515-yd. Par 5 at Shaftesbury Glen in Myrtle Beach zone. In both 2016 and 2019, I failed to notice the mid-size oak tree on the left edge of the fairway. End result: I pulled both tee shots slightly, bounced them off the edge of the tree, and ended up with a 150-yard drive.

I posted the picture to burn it in my mind in case I play there again in April.

[strug'-a-ling]

 

My new Titleist irons cover the same lofts as my DCI 962s in fewer clubs due to the lofts being in five degree increments instead of four. That opened up room for a DEDICATED sand iron that's not really turf playable with its onset round leading edge. My solution, then, is to use a one-trick-pony sand wedge that's really easy to hit in sand. It was more common in the days of weaker numbered-iron lofts and before multiple wedge sets.

[Norboo]

My setup is PW 45, Gap 50, 54 and 58. However, I do have distance gap with my PW and Gap. My PW Ford 140ish and my Gap goes 120ish both with same shaft. I am thinking about bending my Gap 1 or 2 degree stronger.

My best recommendation\ is to find wedges you like and workout the distance gapping by bending if needed. For me 54 and 58 works great. I use 58 for bunkers and lobs shots. 54 is very versatile for everything else from 110 and in.

[strug'-a-ling]

Very similar for me....48, 53, and 58--five degree increments--but with a separate dedicated sand iron for greenside bunker play. I don't have a real distance gap with 5º spacing, but I'm a senior and that probably makes a difference.

[Pepperturbo]

Just a thought, I would first figure out what yardage spreads you between what irons then adjust lofts accordingly. Automatically, adjusting strong may not have the desired affect.

Also, I play a lot of golf both public and private courses in CA, TX and AZ and HI and only encountered a few holes where there's a tree or boulder stuck in middle of a fairway and nearly everyone is in play off the tee and most are Par5's. One man's 2cents and experience.

[Pepperturbo]

Depends on how old the person is that uses the word "traditional." Traditional to me is my 620 PW at 47* or 48*, traditional to my 80+ year old uncle that played on tour is 50*

[Dan Drake]

I'm almost 100% of the opinion that we need more shot-specific golf clubs and to spend a lot less time fussing over gapping. This is especially true at the top and bottom of the bag. For instance, I have two wedges that are almost entirely dedicated to one shot type each. Sure, I use my sand wedge to hit approach shots when it fits the bill, or sand shots when the time is correct, but the majority of the shots I hit with that club are partial wedge shots. So, I have the club set up for that purpose first and foremost. It has the same shaft as my irons, but one step softer. It has a grind that works for me, for that shot. And, it has a loft that allows me to "translate" my swing into a yardage range as well as is feasible for me. My lob wedge, much the same, is built for one basic shot, my stock pitch shot. Completely different shaft, more loft, TOTALLY different grind, etc. The yardage gap between my "Aw" (11 iron), my "Sw," & my "Lw" are all completely insignificant to me. In fact, just to take an extreme to prove a point, the Sw and Lw could both have the same loft and go the same distance on full swings and if they still did the two jobs that I ask them to do WAY more often, I would still believe that to be the right wedge setup to shoot the lowest scores.

Just for reference, in 30 rounds this past year, I hit 75 approach shots last year with my "Sw," 46 short game shots with that club, and 149 partial shots. Now, while not all of those partial shots were with the "Sw," the vast majority were. So, I've built a club that allows me to have the most success on the shot that it faces most. It's built for partial shots first and foremost, then full swings are considered, then short game is last. And I basically only attempt short game shots with this club where the conditions are just right for it, hence the 46 short game shots.

My "LW" numbers look much different: 13 approach shots and 167 short game shots (of which, 36 were sand shots). So, my Lw is built for short game first, sand second, and I simply don't hit any full shots with it unless the conditions are PERFECT for it (13 shots all year, lol!).

[j.a.]

I use a Nike 56° Toe Sweep, great for bunkers or fluffy lies. I open it as much as I need. Yep, I know they are not available anymore but I have a few spares for the future, not for sale.

[Doyouevenblade]

There is no rule you have to go 54/58....54/60 is a very viable option.

 

I personally think the 6* gap in this area vs 50/56 is better. Your mileage may very.

The 54/60 gives me a nice mix of coming in high or low from 30-70 yrds vs 56/60 gives me too much of the same trajectory. Knocking down a 50 at say 65yrds is just a bit uncomfortable for me. Again, ymmv.

[crazygolfnut]

 

You are obviously a very good golfer at a 1.3 HCP which means you are in a group of 1% of good golfers. Very nice.  Most of us are not that good. It sounds like you do not like to take full swings with a wedge. For me a 60 deg wedge full swing is 60 yards, 56 is 70 yards and 52 is 80 yards etc. I find it very easy to hit these numbers without jumping on them. I see other players that try and take longer clubs to hit partial shots and most of the time do not get the job done.  

So my question is, why take a 120 yard club and hit a partial shot to get to 80 when you have a nice easy full swing 80 yard club? How to you get the skill to hit those partial shots? I would think good gaping with full swings would be better for most players.  Not arguing, just trying to pick up some pointers. Thanks

 

[Tree Levino]

With all due respect, I think a lot of the reason that golfers stay at a mid to high cap is because they can't hit partial wedges. I'd say I hit a full wedge maybe 10 percent of the time, if that. I bet if you looked at a study of high vs low handicap golfers from inside 110 yards, there would be a big division in terms of how shots are played and that the lower caps would be more likely to hit knock down wedges and therefore a much higher GIR percentage. A lot of higher caps I play with try to hit a full SW or LW to a 90 yard pin and will either chunk it, blade it, or have a high fade wafter that comes up short and right (or left depending on handedness). You give me a 90 yard shot and I'm hitting the green almost every single time with a knockdown shot. I'd be playing one of four shots in that scenario and most every time if the pin is RIGHT at the front it would be a 3/4 56. If there is a bit of breeze in the face that becomes a 3/4 GW, a lot of wind a 1/2 PW. The only time I'd take a full swing is if the pin is right at the front and there is a touch of wind helping, then I may hit a full 60. Again, not often. Work on these shots people! I'm now considering switching to a 46-52-58 (bending my GW and SW two weak) and then also bending my current 60 two weak and taking it in and out of the bag depending on course. That leaves me room for a driving iron. Don't mind the gaps as I love hitting partials.

Are you going to be more accurate chipping a ball 25 yards in front of you or hitting a full shot to 150 yards away? I'm better your line is more consistent on the short shot. You will be more accurate with a shorter swing.

[NRJyzr]

 

There isn't really a "traditionally lofted PW," it's always been a moving target, slowly moving forward over the decades.

Loft creep isn't a new phenomenon, it's been going on since WWII, if not longer.

[NRJyzr]

 

Personally, I would look at 55/60 with an iron set that had a 50* PW. I've also just carried one wedge on top of that, at 58*. I'm not a big believer in full shots once I get past my PW, so worrying about gaps isn't the same issue it is for full shot considerations.

[Viktoryred3]

I play 46, 54, 60 setup. Hardly ever take full swings with the 54 and 60. Learning how to hit different shots with my wedges definitely improved my handicap and scoring ability. My 60 I’ll use any this 85yds and in with 4 or 5 shots that I use on a regular basis. My 54 is about 110 yds and in, where I play 3 different shots on a reg basis. The 46 is where it gets tricky, bc when I step on it full it goes about 140. Nice and easy full is about 130-132yds and a 3/4 swing is about 120yds... anywhere in the 110-120yds is dependent on wind, lie, green slope, where then I have to decide on whether to get touchy with the 46 or try to hood the 54 and step on it.

I have a buddy that that doesn’t really know how to hit partial shots with his wedges and it comes back to bite him a time or 2 a round. My personal opinion is that you should primarily use “full” swings with clubs at the top end of the bag, as not many people play 3/4 driver...But as you work down throughout your bag you should be able to incorporate different shots, with the scoring clubs. All I know is that I neglected short game practice...or any practice the 2nd half of this year and my scoring suffered.

[Tree Levino]

Same. My wedges were dialed at the beginning of the season. Had less time to practice as the season went on and I screwed around with some bag changes. If you can get close from inside 100 you're going to score.