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Faceplate removal challenge


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I was just given this hickory bulldog from a friend. It has a few major problems ( cracked hosel and shaft to name a few ) I want to embark on a major restoration and the first step for me is to remove the face and sole plate to reset. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove these nails without damaging the faceplate? The nails can be destroyed b/c I plan on getting new ones but the faceplate needs to be saved.

KHP38AWZ0311.jpeg

Driver: Cobra King F8 Nardo 
5w: Cobra King F8 5-6 Nardo
Hybrid: Cobra King F7 4-5
Irons: Ping G 6-UW

Wedge: TaylorMade milled grind 56
Putter: Cleveland Classic #7

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Teevons has a good idea.....or carefully remove the sole plate noting where each sole plate screw came from. Then heat up a slot head screw driver and place in the slot of the last face screw and ....repeat. Then, secure the club head(face up) between two rubber pads in the vice and apply pressure down on the last face screw and back it out. How much downward pressure? Just enough to start the face screw turning and then complete the backing out process. . I would then use a heating gun(medium heat) on the vulcanized fibre face insert and using two wedge like tools placed at the top of the insert and at the bottom of the face insert, gently pry up the insert. Even heat is important and even lifting pressure is too. For me, patience is the key. Don't rush the job.

Blair

Canada

 

"One Day At a Time"

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Even if you get that face plate off in one piece it's still full of holes...a lot of them! You can fill with hardwood dowels instead of a complex of screws, but I'd opt for replacing the insert. A new one from Teevons will allow you some flexibility in dealing with those nasty nails and give you some freedom to use less screws (or dowels) through the insert, in a nice pleasing pattern. Just my $.02. Please post progress pics, this looks really fun.

  • Various Brassies depending on mood: Scottish and UK made
  • Tom Stewart: Mongrel, Jigger, Mashie, Mashie Niblick, Niblick
  • Putters:  Tom Stewart blade or Gem, but lately Spalding Hollow Back
  • [url="http://norcalhickory.com"]NorCal Hickory[/url] - [url="http://pacifichickory.com"]Pacific Hickory[/url] - [url="https://www.instagram.com/stymiemagnet/"]StymieMagnet[/url] (100% hickory golf photos on Instagram)
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You could also use black ABS plastic, as I have here: https://forums.golfwrx.com/discussion/1807202/ginty-insert#latest

 

But otherwise you could do as suggested (Slotting the nailheads) or you could (if you have a small dremel tool) grind away the nails and grab the shafts with vise-grips.

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Update...

news flash...I’m an idiot

turns out the nails were not nails but wooden dowels. Once the slotted faceplate and soleplate screws were removed I was able to carefully pry the face right off in one piece, leaving the dowels fairly intact. I’m assuming the dowels were original and the screws were added later?

my thoughts are as follows:

remove the dowels completely, reset the face, fill the dowel holes with black epoxy and install new brass screws....polykeep the dowels in place, reset the face, use some wood fill to bring the dowel holes flush, new brass screws...polyremove dowels, dam the face and pour a new epoxy face buy new insert material from a kind soul here and shape it by hand...maybe add face screws for aesthetic purposesthe face is completely flat and has no bulge & roll

 

IQRC4GHWWYK6.jpeg

Driver: Cobra King F8 Nardo 
5w: Cobra King F8 5-6 Nardo
Hybrid: Cobra King F7 4-5
Irons: Ping G 6-UW

Wedge: TaylorMade milled grind 56
Putter: Cleveland Classic #7

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I don't know if you're comfortable or capable of casting a new epoxy insert but that is the route I would go. I would leave the dowels and replace the missing and broken ones. Reset the soleplate w. epoxy and build the dam with Mortite putty. Pour the insert and when cured shave the face down exposing the dowels. Should look more original than the other options.

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I’m not comfortable but probably capable. I’ve never done it before. Is there a special type of epoxy or do I just use a 24 hour cure stuff?

if someone could provide basic instructions that would be great

Driver: Cobra King F8 Nardo 
5w: Cobra King F8 5-6 Nardo
Hybrid: Cobra King F7 4-5
Irons: Ping G 6-UW

Wedge: TaylorMade milled grind 56
Putter: Cleveland Classic #7

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The insert is in decent shape. I suggest removing the ugly screw. I doubt that it was original. Clean the screw holes then fill them with black epoxy. You may want to replace all of the dowels.You can either put wood dowels where the screws were or leave them blank. I would not replace the screw holes with dowels. The insert and soleplate need to be removed and reset.

The hard part of this project will be rescoring the face lines.

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Thanks for the feedback. I was seriously considering pouring a new face with casting epoxy. Your route seems much easier. The screws are absolutely not original and I would completely eliminate them. Thinking about removing the old dowels, resetting the face and then putting new dowels in after the face is reset. Then I would sand down any exposed dowels and then stain them.

Driver: Cobra King F8 Nardo 
5w: Cobra King F8 5-6 Nardo
Hybrid: Cobra King F7 4-5
Irons: Ping G 6-UW

Wedge: TaylorMade milled grind 56
Putter: Cleveland Classic #7

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In case anyone is interested I have a few updates on the restoration process. I was able to reset the shaft. I opened the cracks up with small nails and paper clips. I then applied 24 hour set epoxy and placed 3 vices on the shaft over tape. After it sat for 48 hours I removed the vices and tape and I am now in the process of sanding down the excess epoxy and high spots. I’ve read that the epoxy will hold no problem....we’ll see

i have new faceplate material on the way from a fellow golfwrxer.

 

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Driver: Cobra King F8 Nardo 
5w: Cobra King F8 5-6 Nardo
Hybrid: Cobra King F7 4-5
Irons: Ping G 6-UW

Wedge: TaylorMade milled grind 56
Putter: Cleveland Classic #7

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Nice work so far. Epoxy should hold just fine. I'm convinced that modern adhesives are stronger than natural wood fiber. And given the location of split, you might find the epoxy joint will torque less too. I think when this is all said and done you'll have not only beautiful club, but one that is better suited for play (particularly with a modern golf ball) than it was a century ago when new. Fun project, thanks for sharing.

  • Various Brassies depending on mood: Scottish and UK made
  • Tom Stewart: Mongrel, Jigger, Mashie, Mashie Niblick, Niblick
  • Putters:  Tom Stewart blade or Gem, but lately Spalding Hollow Back
  • [url="http://norcalhickory.com"]NorCal Hickory[/url] - [url="http://pacifichickory.com"]Pacific Hickory[/url] - [url="https://www.instagram.com/stymiemagnet/"]StymieMagnet[/url] (100% hickory golf photos on Instagram)
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Update,

using first a bench grinder, then file, then sandpaper I shaped and fit the insert. Using the old face I marked the dowel holes are carefully drilled new ones. I used progressively larger drill bits. The new dowel material was having trouble sitting correctly in the old holes so I had to call an audible. I figured with modern epoxy the dowels are just aesthetic so I dropped some lead and epoxy into the original holes and cut very short dowel pieces that just sat in the top of the insert. After everything set I sanded any exposed dowel material flush to the face.

its my guess that this is probably the original look. I’m considering not scoring grooves in the face, I think I like it smooth.

LBV65R7D42A4.jpeg

  • Like 1

Driver: Cobra King F8 Nardo 
5w: Cobra King F8 5-6 Nardo
Hybrid: Cobra King F7 4-5
Irons: Ping G 6-UW

Wedge: TaylorMade milled grind 56
Putter: Cleveland Classic #7

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Really nice repair! When you color and finish it's going to be a beauty. If you decide to score lines, a simple way to accomplish a period accurate pattern is to buy a 6" carriage bolt or length of threaded rod. Steady the club face up in a vice, then use the rod to score lines. Push firmly with both hands, and move slowly with your first pass to make the initial dig in. Then subsequent passes (will only take a few) and you'll have nice parallel lines that are close together, and don't go too deep.

JCVH0PLO8PSL.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Various Brassies depending on mood: Scottish and UK made
  • Tom Stewart: Mongrel, Jigger, Mashie, Mashie Niblick, Niblick
  • Putters:  Tom Stewart blade or Gem, but lately Spalding Hollow Back
  • [url="http://norcalhickory.com"]NorCal Hickory[/url] - [url="http://pacifichickory.com"]Pacific Hickory[/url] - [url="https://www.instagram.com/stymiemagnet/"]StymieMagnet[/url] (100% hickory golf photos on Instagram)
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I’m onto to the finishing stages. The shaft was really warped so it’s taken a long time to almost straighten it. This photo only represents the first coat of spar poly

9KUNFIP9XO8C.jpeg

Driver: Cobra King F8 Nardo 
5w: Cobra King F8 5-6 Nardo
Hybrid: Cobra King F7 4-5
Irons: Ping G 6-UW

Wedge: TaylorMade milled grind 56
Putter: Cleveland Classic #7

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Project complete !

Too bad it’s 11 degree’s out side today.

to answer the question about....the hickory shafts comes to a cone shaped point. The hosel of the head is drilled out and the coned tipped shaft slides in.

 

N4D7VGOO8Z0C.jpeg

  • Like 2

Driver: Cobra King F8 Nardo 
5w: Cobra King F8 5-6 Nardo
Hybrid: Cobra King F7 4-5
Irons: Ping G 6-UW

Wedge: TaylorMade milled grind 56
Putter: Cleveland Classic #7

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